Caprice engine swap?

[kevm14]

I could argue that the clock is ticking on the Caprice being worth putting the time and money into an engine swap. I could also easily argue that the time has already passed.

However, if it hasn't, I am narrowing in on a plan. Granted a very coarse plan at this point. More of an academic exercise even.

Engine
Due to price and availability, it looks like the dime-a-dozen LM7 (1999-2006 or 2007 in the Silverado Classic) is plentiful. Prices range from $350 to $550 for good grade engines that aren't too far away.
The other option looks like the L59 which was a flex fuel version and had an additional 10hp. These are also fairly plentiful but not as available as the LM7.

Perhaps the sweet spot is the 2005+ LM7 which should have the upgraded rods. Not that I need them but I guess I like that.

The other thing is I really need something complete, just to have a starting point, even if I have to replace certain parts (like the car intake and also the oil pan). Actually, the truck accessories may not even work on a B-body. I wonder if there's an accessory plan that allows me to keep my R4 compressor and also not have to BFH mod the frame. These are the details that make what could be a somewhat simple swap turn into a big project.

For a trans, there is no doubt that due to price and availability, I would want a 4L60-E, ideally from a 2WD truck that donated the engine. This will require placing phone calls. It would be easier, perhaps, to find a 2WD trans and then call and see if the engine is also available. For example, Linder's in Worcester has a 2WD 4L60-E from a 2006 that had the 5.3L, in grade A, only 94k miles, for $795. If they'd sell me the complete engine w/ harness and accessories for a reasonable price, that would be a good one. Unfortunately a 4WD 4L60E won't work. Too many differences that can't be rectified easily.

I need to read this thread:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/ ... p?t=228454

I could look at LQ4s but I like the 5.3 and it's probably cheaper. I've lived with my car with a mid-80s trap speed for almost 15 years. There's no reason it needs to automatically jump to run low 12s or something. I'd be happy with trapping 100. Which should require about 350hp, or well within reach with bolt-ons and a cam. Probably just bolt-ons and tuning if I really wanted to. In fact if I was going to bother with a cam, I'd probably shoot for 400hp and closer to a 105 mph trap, which gets me out of LT1 F-body performance. I already owned a car back in 2004 that trapped 100. I need to aim a little higher in 2015, regardless of the starting platform.

Exhaust
Need to retain cats, unless I don't need emissions in my 2017 inspection. Custom exhaust obviously required either way.

Could do DBW throttle or cable. I don't really care.

I think I'll be fine with a Dakota Digital box for my speedo. For the tach, I may be able to get the PCM to output what my tach needs, or get another Dakota Digital converter box.

The rest of the gauges are 100% discrete sensor driven. A 90s B-body is an ideal candidate for this swap. Consider crash standards (good), airbags, ABS, good passenger and trunk space. Plenty of handling and braking potential. Yet not so new that there is complicated BCM/CAN stuff to have to hack around the to get everything to work. Already EFI, so no gas tank BS to deal with. I can probably keep the stock fuel lines even (adapt in the engine bay of course).

I already have an 8.5" ring 10-bolt with a good Detroit Truetrac posi carrier. Hell I may even be able to reuse my driveshaft (maybe an excuse to finally do U-joints). The 3.42 is also perfect, right off the bat. By sticking with an auto, I keep things simple (i.e. no T56 conversion).

[kevm14]

The SS forum says:

The only FEAD that will clear without any alteration of the factory crossmember is the truck/SUV FEAD, pictured here:

So definitely get the whole accessory drive system with the engine.

[kevm14]

On the other hand, an LQ9 would get me 345 hp (and 380 lb-ft) and probably my 100 mph trap right off the bat, with a better compression ratio. The 4" bore also opens the door for heads that the 5.3L cannot run. Ironically, that might drive well enough that I'd be content to just leave it stock. Which has a certain appeal. Also avoids the cost of a cam swap (and the time). Probably could squeak a 13.9 @ 100 or something on a perfect launch.

Example:
2004 LQ9 from Escalade, 6 months warranty, complete w/ accessories, 153k, grade A, $1300. You can make the case for this engine and what it offers, both in terms of function and potential, for only ~$800 more than an LM7. Only real downside is I'd have to hunt down the trans separately as there's no way I'll find a 2WD LQ9 donor vehicle in New England. Maybe Texas.

However, it would be nice to find a 60E trans from something that was big and heavy and powerful just to possibly avoid having to get something built.

[kevm14]

Here's a cam only LQ9 in a 78 Caprice coupe running 12.0 @ 111
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuBgEhOlR0E

He said the cam is a notch or two too large for stock heads so that could be a good recipe for something that can very realistically make my Caprice faster than my CTS-V. Wouldn't that be interesting.

[kevm14]

Engine mounts:
http://kds-performance.com/sbc/

$98. Cool. These mounts seem to have the required set-back to keep the trans in the same location, so no driveshaft modifications required. Luckily I already have the 700R4/4L60, so that's instant compatibility with the 4L60-E. That's another advantage of starting with a 90s B-body (some 80s B-bodies ran the 200-4R, which is longer I think).

[Adam]

Do you think the truck intake will fit? That just leaves the oil pan. The Holley pan is expensive, but should work w/o any issues. Or maybe just a factory F-body LS1 pan? You already have electric fans. Your radiator is original or a stock-ish upgrade? I can't remember. You can probably have the truck R-134a compressor lines adapted to the B-body evaporator/receiver drier at a hydraulic line shop.

[kevm14]

I do not think the truck intake will fit.

For oil pan there may be a few options, including a Moroso. F-body pan requires notching the engine cradle/cross member/frame area.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/ ... p?t=274245

Maybe CTS-V pan.
Surprisingly, someone mentioned the Hummer H3 pan (had the 5.3).

The OP clarifies why he wants an aluminum pan:

The cast aluminum pan is actually (much) structurally stronger, mostly because it's very thick cast aluminum. You're correct that the sheet metal pan is easier to modify. However, GM actually designed the oil pan in the LS series to provide structural support, so it's not like an oil pan on a SBC that's just there to hold oil. I'm just not comfortable using a sheet metal oil pan

The downside of cast aluminum is it's unforgiving. If you hit a rock (or a rock hits you), it's much more likely to crack the pan than steel, which will be more likely to just dent. If you crack the pan, chances are you're going to lose your engine. For a brand new LS3, that's an expensive proposition and is why I'm so paranoid about the pan dropping below the x-member.

Need to see how the CTS-V and H3 pan fit on the B-body.

I would probably try to run my radiator since it seems to work well enough. Same with the fans (I'll finally have PCM control of them).

I guess I'd be changing my alternator also. And power steering pump. And getting rid of the AIR pump. Hmm.

[kevm14]

H3 pan specs here, as well as (I think) CTS-V pan dimensions:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/ ... p?t=260461

That H3 pan is nice and cheap.

Good resource on (all?) pan options:
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/sh ... p?t=208618

With the B-body, in general, the trick is to get the sump to start far back enough (perhaps 11") and also not hang down too far (just for road debris).

[kevm14]

Not sure what to do about the transmission crossmember. Maybe I don't have to do anything, as it is already setup for dual exhaust (dual humps). In converting to the LT1 x-member, I also disassociated the tailshaft housing with transmission mounting. The LT1 x-member uses the actual trans case rather than the tailshaft housing.

[kevm14]

Probably also worth reviewing these 3 videos from AGearhead4Life when he helped do a 5.3 swap in a Roadmaster (93 even).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Gl4_b6 ... TIIHH7ING2

Looks like he reused the R4 compressor! Probably a custom accessory bracket, but I'm not necessarily scared of that. I really just need a metal band saw and some steel.

Also looks like he is recommending the CTS-V pan. I will watch these and try to suck in the highlights. Seems that the comments contain about 50% of the key info, too.