Bang for the Buck Thread

Non-repair car talk
Bob
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Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2013 7:36 am

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by Bob »

Bob
Posts: 2440
Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2013 7:36 am

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by Bob »

Bob
Posts: 2440
Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2013 7:36 am

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by Bob »

When I just saw the title and the exhaust tips, I was thinking this was lame. Not a bad deal for a LS Miata.

https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/d/ ... 00281.html
kevm14
Posts: 15200
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:28 pm

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by kevm14 »

Why wouldn't your dad consider something like that if the swap was done well? That would be a truly interesting vehicle to own. Plus, aren't we looking at C6 Z06 levels of acceleration for C5 Z06 money? In a friendly chassis? In fact it could trap closer to 130, no?

The tips are ugly but that is easy enough to fix. Unless he was specifically addressing a drone issue by extending them away from the body.
Bob
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Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2013 7:36 am

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by Bob »

Came for pictures of the intake manifold, was not disappointed: https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/d/ ... 40632.html
kevm14
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:28 pm

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by kevm14 »

What is the BaT value given the less desirable automatic? And oh my god the maintenance. This seems like a good deal for $4k as a driver.
Bob
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Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2013 7:36 am

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by Bob »

This is the closest thing to a comp I could find: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1993-ford-taurus-sho/ Significantly lower mileage, but also an automatic. This is probably a decent buy for $4k.
Adam
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:50 pm

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by Adam »

The automatics are so lame compared to the manual cars. I've driven many of both and the manuals drive much better (obviously).
kevm14
Posts: 15200
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:28 pm

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by kevm14 »

Down to $3500. I guess it would have been snagged already if it was a manual.

Just like with the 4th gen Maxima, if you just drove the auto, you'd say, wow this car is pretty quick. Then you drive the manual and it's a whole different car, and feels quite a bit quicker still.

But at 120k I doubt this AXOD has a lot of life remaining. Or AXOD-E.

Actually...AX4S.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AXOD ... ssion#AX4S
The AXOD-E was renamed AX4S in 1993. In addition to the name change, improvements in the lubrication of the gearset and capacity upgrades were made. A centrifugal piston assembly was implemented in the intermediate clutch position to improve 1st–2nd and 2nd–1st shift quality and an increase in the clutch's durability was made on some models. High energy friction materials were also introduced. A new twin piston torque converter clutch (TCC) was introduced with the AX4S and the AX4N on some models. The transaxle pan on this model will sometimes read "AXOD Metric" since it is based on the AXOD transaxle. The data plate code for this transmission is "L."
Applications:
1993–1994 Lincoln Continental
1993–2003 Ford Taurus
1993–2003 Mercury Sable
1995–2000 Ford Windstar
A winning combo of vehicles right there...also I kind of laughed at the 2-1 shift quality improvement.
Earlier AXOD and AXOD-E models have a poor reliability record due to internal lubrication problems. These were mostly remedied by 1995. These transaxles require fluid and filter changes every 30,000 miles to maximize service life.

Intermediate clutch failures resulting in poor 1–2 shifts or slipping are common on all AX family members.

Failure of the "Neutral to Drive Accumulator" causes hard shifts into a drive gear (R, OD, D, 1) from "N" or "P". This can become quite violent. Reasons for this part's failure: Piston stuck, or seals or springs damaged or missing. Correction for this problem: Check these parts for damage. Replace as required (located inside the transaxle, recommended that a transmission shop do the repair, but a full rebuild of the transaxle is NOT required). In general, however, difficulty shifting from neutral to overdrive, OD to N, N to R, and R to N is most likely caused by a stretched shifter cable.

Other issues such as locking and/or breaking the parking "pawl" occurs in these transmissions primarily due to owner negligence in not operating the parking brake properly, or not using the parking brake at all. If the vehicle is allowed to "roll back" onto the pawl with heavy force (such as when parking on a steep incline), the pawl may break off or seize the gears so that either the vehicle rolls away, or when the owner starts the vehicle and attempts to put the vehicle in gear, they are unable to move the shift lever from Park. This creates a compound issue in which the shifter linkage or cable can break due to excess force. The vehicle's owner guide states the appropriate procedure is to engage the parking brake before shifting to Park, rather than relying on the pawl, as the pawl is a last line of defense to prevent the vehicle from moving unintentionally. If the parking pawl breaks off or bends, serious transaxle damage can occur.

Recently,[when?] NHTSA launched an investigation into the Ford Freestar and Mercury Monterey due to numerous complaints with regard to the equipped 4F50N transmission.[1] Although the investigation is centered on the Torque Converter, these failures often require that the entire transaxle be rebuilt or replaced.
They didn't even design the park pawl properly. Sheesh.
bill25
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2013 2:20 pm

Re: Bang for the Buck Thread

Post by bill25 »

Not the best car, but cheap V8 with relatively low miles:
Considering Crown Vics are still getting like 2 to 4 grand, 5-6 for this is probably a decent power upgrade.
https://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/d ... 68865.html
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