Mazda3 Starting Issue

[bill25]

Yeah that is what I am thinking. I am going to get throttle body cleaner, MAF cleaner and the gasket (unless I can just use carb cleaner on both since I have plenty of that). I might take the whole think off and clean it out which would require replacing the gasket. The TSB says to just wipe it with a cloth with cleaner on it, not requiring a gasket. I could just get the gasket, and see how clean I can get it without removing, and if it is not working out, I could remove it. Worst case, if I can clean it without removing I have the gasket for next time.

The gasket is $20 unless I get the super cheap $2 one (Not doing that).

[kevm14]

You should be able to do a decent job cleaning without removing it. Be sure to clean everything around where the throttle blade would seal when closed as well as any air bypass circuits/passages if you have those.

I have used carb cleaner on a MAF but since there is MAF spray use that on the MAF and carb spray on the TB. You may even find throttle body cleaner.

[Adam]

Throttle body cleaner is a thing.

[kevm14]

My truck has this issue intermittently and letting it prime the fuel pump (key on, off, on, off several times) seems to help, which proves it is a fuel pressure bleed down problem.

Since I charged the battery, the truck has consistently started surprisingly well, even in this super cold weather. No primes. Just a couple cranks and it fires right up. I don't know what this means, except maybe prime issues can be intermittent.

[bill25]

I got the MAF and Throttle Body Cleaner (CRC brand), and a new filter. I do think my battery is on it's way out. It seemed to crank pretty slowly the other day. Unfortunately the date on the battery is not visible. I will check the voltage (I was supposed to do that today but forgot...). I am pretty sure it is due.

Even if I need the battery, I will still do the cleaning. Seems like good maintenance since it is a known issue and I have 135K on it.

[kevm14]

I will check the voltage (I was supposed to do that today but forgot...). I am pretty sure it is due.

Voltage while cranking would be a better indicator of health. Failing batteries can have good no load voltage. Or just replace it if in doubt.

Even if I need the battery, I will still do the cleaning. Seems like good maintenance since it is a known issue and I have 135K on it.

Agreed. Definitely do that.

[Adam]

If you see less than 10V while cranking, replace the battery.

[kevm14]

Yeah I was going to say something like that. He is probably going with a 35N Everstart Maxx as you pretty much can't beat it for the price for the specs and warranty. He'll just have to bring a vomit bag into Walmart.

[bill25]

Walmart is out of these batteries, and I didn't want to wait. I ended up getting this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-Extre ... /204852597
Exide Extreme
35 Auto Battery

It was one of the very few I could find with a flat top for the metal bracket that goes over the top to hold it in place.

Specs:
585-cold cranking amps at 0-degree F
700-cranking amps at 32-degree F
100-minutes reserve capacity at 25-amp
40-month free warranty 24-hour emergency jump start

Product Depth (in.) - 6.875
Product Height (in.) - 8.9375
Product Width (in.) - 9.4375



Specs of the EverStart Maxx - MAXX-35N
Cold Crank Amp - 640
Reserve Capacity - 100

Assembled Product Dimensions (L x W x H)
9.10 x 6.90 x 8.90 Inches

Both were $93

[bill25]

It is on the charger... Solid red. Hopefully green in the AM and I will drive it in.