For Starters....

[Fast_Ed]

The Roadmaster is king.

I have replaced the starter on this car three times in the 50k I've owned it. The first time was pretty soon after I bought it, and I was getting the *click* of the solenoid but no turning. Probably simple starter failure.

The second most recent time was Thanksgiving, at my parents house. The nose of the starter had broken off and was occasionally hitting the flex plate causing some noise. I put two shims in that time, but it still sounded tight to me.

The most recent time was last weekend. This one had a dead solenoid. No click or anything. I put in a free replacement starter and three shims. Turns out we put less than 3000 miles on it in that time.

I get free replacement for my duralast starters, and the failure mode seems to be different each time. Maybe bad luck, or maybe bad choice of starter brand. Are B-bodies known to be tough on starters?

[kevm14]

LT1 B-bodies are known to be tough on starters, or were known (it was a nose cone issue, and was also attributed to not letting off the key soon enough after it fires, due to the healthy idle flare of LT1s and the quick fire-up), but in this case, I'd be inclined to put at least some blame on the brand. I don't think Adam's Caprice, Fleetwood, my Fleetwood and my Camaro have had anywhere near the same experience you have. FWIW. YMMV. LOLWTFBBQ

[Fast_Ed]

Well, the "new" starter did the grinding thing again.. It cranks for a bit then catches, grinds, and the car does not start... I'm not sure if this is due to my wife letting off on the starter or not... I wasn't there. The car started on the next attempt. I see in this post that I have three shims in place. I know I have another one, but that seems like a lot of shims.

The Impala SS forum people seem to think that the Corvette (Gear reduction?) starters are the best thing ever. Many seem to claim that they don't need shims. Why wouldn't they need shims again?

Could it be that I'm having an engine problem that causes delayed starting, and the extended cranking is causing the operator to leave the key in place too long?

Amusing anecdote: In my searching, I also saw a Kevin Moore guy step in an recommend the starter for an 80's (?) truck, per his experience with an L05. Always amusing to realize that you know the guy whose post you are reading.

[kevm14]

The GM replacement starter for an L05 is a late 90s L31 gear reduction unit. I need that one because the L05 has a 168 tooth flywheel. 305s and LT1s use a 153 tooth.

For you, I dunno. I don't know exactly what the cause is. I do know I've never had to shim a starter.

[Adam]

This month's Hot Rod has an article on how to shim a started correctly. I should let you borrow it.

[kevm14]

It is possible that the flexplate is now compromised. From what I understand, an unshimed starter (that needed them) would present bad gear mesh symptoms immediately, not after 20k.

Could pull the torque converter dust shield and inspect flexplate. If that works I would buy an AC Delco (reman is fine). Or keep replacing.

[Fast_Ed]

I would like to borrow that Hot Rod.. I also plan to watch some youtube videos on it.

Can the flex plate get out-of-round? I have had this problem for a long time, and I remember checking the plate for chipped teeth not too long ago. There were no damaged teeth IIRC. But a high spot on the flex plate could be a problem...

I assume the transmission needs to come out to replace the flex plate? If so, it's probably not the flex plate.....

[Fast_Ed]

I read on the SS forums that the stock starter bolts for the LT1 (And maybe other) cars have some knurling that helps align the starter as it bolts up.

I found some for F bodies on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-97-Camaro-Fi ... iQ&vxp=mtr

I don't remember my starter bolts having that pattern. Maybe I can find a set of stock bolts somewhere in my garage to borrow and see if it fixes the issue. I could then order up a new pair to replace the ones I 'found...'

[kevm14]

Make sure your bolts are tight I guess before you do anything else. Maybe they are loosening up.
Have you actually put your eyes on the starter during crank/grind? It could be moving around.

I believe the purpose of the knurling (all SBCs have it) is to provide a ground contact with the starter housing. But you should get new bolts if you think yours are worn out or something.

[Adam]

Maybe I can find a set of stock bolts somewhere in my garage to borrow and see if it fixes the issue. I could then order up a new pair to replace the ones I 'found...'

Sigh...