Monte Carlo LT1 Build

[Adam]

Then, later on, you can just suck it up, pull the engine, and do whatever you want to do with it out of the car, which will probably be easier overall.

Pulling the engine again won't be a big deal. The stuff that made it take longer in the Caprice won't be an issue in a short amount of time (rusted fasteners, mostly). It should be something that can be done in less than 6 hours.

[Adam]

Two Comp options for cams from the XFI line:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam- ... =1109&sb=0
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam- ... =1110&sb=0

The second one should be more exciting but still keep the RPMs under 6K. Full kits (everything but pushrods and rockers) run ~$700. The listed specs are based on a 1.6:1 rocker. However, both of these have > 0.550" lift.

[Fast_Ed]

Another (less exciting) option would be to leave the drivetrain completely stock (header/manifold choice not withstanding) and use that time to dial in the rest of the car. The engine ran reasonably well immediately before we removed it, so it should run just as good when it goes in the new car.

The rest of the planned changes are not trivial:
- B-body front spindles and brakes
- Fuel injection (tank/pump/harness/lines, etc...)
- Limited slip upgrade
- A/C re-engineering and integration with the G-body controls (I want A/C to work)
- LT1 driving the factory gauges
- 4L60E fitment w/driveshaft and trans mount
- Rehabbing the rest of the car, which has been sitting for 12+ years

While this is less exciting than also dropping a 350hp (+, not unreasonable) engine in place, it will eliminate what could potentially be many unknowns from the swap.

Some things that would be needed for future output increases that need to be addressed anyway could be done, like the fuel pump upgrade.

One added bonus to a stock LT1 install is we would get to experience (for a time) what a G-body could have been like in '94-'96 if GM had continued the platform for another generation like they did for the B platform.

I think that the rear axle and AC should be part of a post install update. You know, make sure it can be registered and inspected before you go ahead and spend a bunch of time on HVAC and quarter mile times..

Of course, that assumes that you can access all the fittings for the AC with the engine installed (Pretty sure it's easier than a b-body) and that the rear axle is currently installed.

[Adam]

A Comp 1.6:1 roller rocker kit with pushrods runs ~$300.

[Fast_Ed]

Of course, things you already have (like the spindles) would be part of the initial install.. Gauges are kind of a must (do they check the speedo during inspection??)

Fuel pump should be the correct one for your power goals, since you have to install one either way.

[kevm14]

I think that the rear axle and AC should be part of a post install update.

If he never puts drag radials or slicks on the car, the stock axle is probably fine. But with 3.73s, you'll want some additional RPMs out of the engine (and can afford to sacrifice some off-idle torque).

[Adam]

Gauges are kind of a must (do they check the speedo during inspection??)

They are supposed to verify the speedo is functional. Not necessarily accurate, but functional. The rest of the gauges don't matter for inspection, but I want to make them work. I would prefer to minimize gauge That fancy speedo drive unit will solve that problem. Kevin posted it in a previous thread. You calibrate it somehow and it has a speedo drive output that you connect to your mechanical speedo on your cluster.

[Adam]

Of course, things you already have (like the spindles) would be part of the initial install.

I could decide that the spindle swap isn't required for the initial install, but I will probably need to do brake work to get a sticker anyway. I could wait on that decision until I have the car apart.

[kevm14]

Two Comp options for cams from the XFI line:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam- ... =1109&sb=0
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam- ... =1110&sb=0

The second one should be more exciting but still keep the RPMs under 6K. Full kits (everything but pushrods and rockers) run ~$700. The listed specs are based on a 1.6:1 rocker. However, both of these have > 0.550" lift.

1) the idea that anyone is selling cams that "don't need tuning" just irritates me so much because it's not true. Fueling may be close enough with the MAF but I guarantee spark will be wrong. And spark tuning is what makes the difference.

2) that first cam is boring

3) the second cam has good duration specs but too much lift.

[kevm14]

Also I will emphatically recommend picking up a WB O2 kit with a gauge mounted in the car somewhere.

My father in law bought this for his 83 C10: http://www.dynamicefi.com/TT-1.php

It works great.

Comes with everything you need. It will drive a gauge, and there is another trick: you can wire it into the unused oil temperature input on the PCM and that gives you a way to log AFR with the rest of the data while tuning.

Using this for the gauge: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QF ... l_1p_13_ti

With true duals, you pretty much have to pick a bank. I guess I'd see if one bank tends to run leaner (internet research) and use that one. It is sequential EFI, and you can tune the injector trim on individual cylinders. So you could theoretically put a bung on both banks and do at least one sanity check that both banks are the same (though you can't check them at the same time).

I'd recommend this if we do any tuning at all, even on a stock engine. You just need to know.