Monte Carlo LT1 Build

[Adam]

TransGo HD2 kit for the 4L60E. They say upgraded springs are needed if revving over 5500rpm.
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?prd ... od_start=1

[Adam]

Also I will emphatically recommend picking up a WB O2 kit with a gauge mounted in the car somewhere.

My father in law bought this for his 83 C10: http://www.dynamicefi.com/TT-1.php

It works great.

Comes with everything you need. It will drive a gauge, and there is another trick: you can wire it into the unused oil temperature input on the PCM and that gives you a way to log AFR with the rest of the data while tuning.

With true duals, you pretty much have to pick a bank. I guess I'd see if one bank tends to run leaner (internet research) and use that one. It is sequential EFI, and you can tune the injector trim on individual cylinders. So you could theoretically put a bung on both banks and do at least one sanity check that both banks are the same (though you can't check them at the same time).

I'd recommend this if we do any tuning at all, even on a stock engine. You just need to know.

It says it has two outputs. One can do narrow band "stock" output and the other can do WB. Could I use this to replace my stock O2 sensors and have WB at the same time rather than have multiple O2s in each bank?

[kevm14]

there is another trick: you can wire it into the unused oil temperature input on the PCM and that gives you a way to log AFR with the rest of the data while tuning.

This thread http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inject ... d-Question seems to suggest that you have to use the A/C low pressure transducer input, as the oil temp has a pull up resistor for use with a high impedance temp sensor (makes sense). I thought the oil temp input was a thing though. Needs more research.

It's not the end of the world, though. It just means you don't have A/C while tuning. The rest of the time, the WB controller still drives the gauge. You will somehow just switch back to the A/C pressure sender. A little hacky but you can probably do it so it's not terrible.

[kevm14]

TransGo HD2 kit for the 4L60E. They say upgraded springs are needed if revving over 5500rpm.
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?prd ... od_start=1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-4 ... /overview/

Yeah I think that is the recommended kit though the price is less than I expected. I dunno about the 5,500 rpm thing. I think that is specifically due to possible centrifugal apply of 4th as you wind out 3rd. It can burn the clutch pack up, or whatever. Good news: your transmission is already out. So you could just do this, even if you drive it stock for a while.

[kevm14]

It says it has two outputs. One can do narrow band "stock" output and the other can do WB. Could I use this to replace my stock O2 sensors and have WB at the same time rather than have multiple O2s in each bank?

I wouldn't recommend that. I'd add a bung (or two, so you can switch to ensure both banks are good at least once). The two outputs would drive a gauge and a PCM input simultaneously for data logging. You don't need to get two WB O2s. It does need to be mounted upstream of the cat. So...long tubes, with a bung in each collector for NB O2. And if you hacked stock cats on, you'd have two more bungs there to accept a WB O2.

Also I edited my original WB post to add gauge info.

[Adam]

It says it has two outputs. One can do narrow band "stock" output and the other can do WB. Could I use this to replace my stock O2 sensors and have WB at the same time rather than have multiple O2s in each bank?

I wouldn't recommend that. I'd add a bung (or two, so you can switch to ensure both banks are good at least once). The two outputs would drive a gauge and a PCM input simultaneously for data logging. You don't need to get two WB O2s. It does need to be mounted upstream of the cat. So...long tubes, with a bung in each collector for NB O2. And if you hacked stock cats on, you'd have two more bungs there to accept a WB O2.

Also I edited my original WB post to add gauge info.

I though stock O2s were more money than they are ($32 for AC Delcos are Rock Auto), so it makes sense not to buy* two.

*Edited for spelling.

[Adam]

Good news: your transmission is already out. So you could just do this, even if you drive it stock for a while.

Yes. Especially considering the price and the fact that I was going to do a fluid/filter change anyway.

Any thoughts on torque converters? Or is that more of a consideration for the modified version of the engine?

[kevm14]

All I will say is some folks used to run an S10 converter. There may be other stock converters that have decent characteristics.

There are plenty of good aftermarket ones, but if they have good drivability and a lockup clutch, they are not cheap. So I'd either keep it stock or see if there is a GM compatible replacement. If you plan to drive it a fair amount with 3.73s and the stock engine, I would just put the stock converter back in. It will probably burn through 1st gear and halfway into 2nd before hooking up as it is. Which I guess is actually annoying, because it will be a low 14 second car...

[Adam]

It will probably burn through 1st gear and halfway into 2nd before hooking up as it is. Which I guess is actually annoying, because it will be a low 14 second car...

Sounds like fun. Good thing I have a bunch of 235/something R15s laying around.

[kevm14]

Keep putting those old Radial T/As on it and you'll get as close to the 60s as you can on a radial tire.

"Radial T/A: so bad we had to remind you that it IS actually a radial"