Garden tractor acquisition

[kevm14]

I'm still annoyed with the sub-par engine governor performance. I hate the way it controls the idle (basically doesn't) and frankly the only time governor performance is remotely acceptable is at full throttle. Even then, however, it sags hundreds of RPM and almost lags in response. It's just....bad. I never expected my 80s Briggs twins to be better at engine regulation but they really are. When I tried the governed idle spring, that DID seem to give it an actual governed idle. But the rest of the governor performance was still lame, and it seemed like it possibly made the performance even worse in the mid-range like 2000 rpm. Not ideal.

In response, I bought a trio of governor springs, different colors. The engine manual says there is a specific color and position depending on the exact operational RPM you are targeting. I guess I should take this more seriously and not assume that you can just bend tabs and turn screws to make it all work perfectly. Or the spring is a little weak. Or all of the above.

I believe I have the 8mm lever.

So I ordered a purple, black and red spring based on those RPM ranges and I'll experiment with this to see if it helps anything. For best possible performance I'd want a 3,600 rpm WOT speed because that's where the engine makes the most power. Problem with that is the unloaded top speed would be nearly 3,900 which I feel is a little high. So the black or red spring may be the best options. I think I have the spring in the wrong hole, too though I have it in the hole that should provide the highest sensitivity and it's still not enough. That's why I am trying different springs.

It probably won't do much about the idle regulation though I could also try switching back to the governed idle spring AND try a new high speed spring. Maybe that combo could work.

[kevm14]

Finally got all 3 springs. Surprisingly they are visibly all different, especially the purple. From top to bottom it's purple, black and red. Makes sense that the highest RPM spring would also be the stiffest.

[kevm14]

I put the black spring on and set the high RPM no load to 3780 which the manual says will give me a 3500rpm WOT governor. I won't know until next winter. But this could give me another 500 rpm under loaded conditions which will throw the snow farther and potentially let me go faster. The black spring was definitely different than the one it had. I don't think governor response at lower RPMs has really improved, either. It's just a crappy governor design and not meant to hold a rock steady RPM at, say, 2000 rpm. I could experiment again with the governed idle spring but I may just forget about it for a while.

I removed the snow cab, snow blower and blower hitch frame. I installed the loader mid hitch and loader. That was a bit of an ordeal.

The pump makes no noise but the fluid level is low and the filter looks like it might be the original. I ordered an exact replacement from eBay and for fluid it basically takes transmission fluid. Spec is 5 quarts but I probably will only be able to drain about 4 so I'll pick up a gallon of Dexron/Mercon and that will probably be sufficient. They also want you to clean out this screen in the pump inlet line. The filter is on the return side right before the reservoir.

[kevm14]

Changed the loader fluid and filter. Just disconnect the two large zip ties, pull the Y adapter down and open the drain plug. I did not see a screen in the Y adapter but maybe I was supposed to fish around with pliers or a pick. Didn't feel like making problems.

It may have taken 2-3 quarts so definitely didn't change all the fluid but at least there is some clean stuff in there and a new filter. Other than checking the level once in a while this is probably good for a long time. Hours probably in the 330 range but I can double check.

Also checked tire pressures. I set fronts to 15 though they may want more with the loader. Possibly 20.

I set rears to about 9 psi. Left rear was actually too high. Removed chains. Added 2 bags of quickcrete to the rear and may add another.

[kevm14]

Got the new battery in. I decided to check the charging circuit so I put my multimeter on it. At idle it was like 14.5 volts and climbed to like 16.75V at full speed. That's not good and will bake the new battery. Briggs made like 25 different alternator and charging setups. I think mine has the dual circuit alternator which is AC for the headlights and unregulated DC (2-4 amps) to charge the battery. I don't think I have a voltage regulator.

There was a small ground at the front of the engine. I cleaned that and the terminals for the two things grounded on it. Still seemed messed up. Then I disconnected the harness and probed the AC and DC pin. The AC pin was within spec. You can't really test the DC charging circuit without inserting an ammeter inline and seeing what the current output is. So I plugged that back in. After that, it seemed to return to normal (less than 14V at full speed). I don't know if it's fixed or the problem is intermittent. I will check next time I use it. There isn't much to the system and about the only thing to replace is the stator which requires pulling the flywheel. I could also just ignore it and see how long the battery lasts.

6 years later I think my Tractor Supply 280CA battery is starting to go. Yes I tried topping off the water and it wasn't really that low. I will probably upgrade to the next capacity up (430CA) and it looks like these U1 size batteries are basically carried everywhere, often in 2 or even 3 capacity variations. I will skip TSC based on some made in China comments about recent ones. O'Reilly seems good at $60. I could probably spend half that but if it lasts a year or two then it wasn't really a savings.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/la ... y+U1&pos=0

Also they have a $10 gift card rebate so that's something.

[kevm14]

Fun fact: later Briggs opposed twins added the option for full pressure lubrication and this was denoted on the engine with a "Plus," as in "Briggs & Stratton Twin II I/C Plus."
hqdefault.jpg

I am still not sure they made any in vertical shaft. EDIT: That pic is a vertical shaft 46 cid model so....yes. That would be the unicorn option. I guess they are rare. Also not sure how necessary it is given how old mine are.

https://providence.craigslist.org/grd/d ... 83470.html

Here's one for sale locally.

[kevm14]

Finally installed the new PTO switch that it probably didn't need.

[kevm14]

Gator blade G3 for my machine appears to be this:
http://www.griggslawnandtractor.net/ore ... er-96-638/

Though I need to see if they make a G5 for it.

G3 Gator Blades: The G3 is the standard gator mulcher blade. It gives you the ability to mow faster at higher speeds than traditional mulching blades.

G5 Gator Blades: G5 blades have higher air lift and a longer cutting edge than the G3. This promotes even better mulching performance. Plus with Fusion technology, your blade stays sharp 40% longer than traditional blades.

G6 Gator Blades: G6 blades are considered the heavy-duty gator blades. The increase in thickness and width extends the life of the blade. Combine longevity, sharpness, and an extended cutting edge, you have the ultimate mulching blade.

96-638 is the correct cross to the Simplicity 1656147ASM. Ordered 3 of the Gator G3 blades. $105. Hope they chop up the leaves better. I've been on the same blades from when I bought this machine so I think it's OK to buy a set it blades. I do sharpen them once or twice a year. They are fairly worn but could be used more.

[kevm14]

Made a video of loader and hitch frame removal in prep for winter conversion.

https://youtu.be/NWOYUo-pBKg

[kevm14]

96-638 is the correct cross to the Simplicity 1656147ASM. Ordered 3 of the Gator G3 blades. $105. Hope they chop up the leaves better. I've been on the same blades from when I bought this machine so I think it's OK to buy a set it blades. I do sharpen them once or twice a year. They are fairly worn but could be used more.

Got my blades. I have a few pics.

General synopsis: they do chop up the leaves more but also leave a little more leaf mess behind. The theory there is that things will decompose faster being smaller chunks so the leave-behind (leaf-behind?) is more acceptable.

The chute seemed very resistant to clogs and I could run over just about any pile and it would chop them up, suck up what it can and leave the rest behind. What does go in the bags is more dense and overall this seems like a good tradeoff for leaf collection season. I am NOT sure how they will do with just grass cutting season but I intend to find out. If I don't like how they cut with my deck/setup, I'll consider ordering a new conventional set of blades, or just put my old ones back on...