https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2ea-5ifRRYI
The company responds to arm chair engineers on the internet and load the 5000 lb unit with 16000 lbs to see what would happen.
Garage lift options
Re: Garage lift options
A race against a jack and stands.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=76Gvz-U5TjA
1/3rd the time. And you can go up and down way easier, too.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=76Gvz-U5TjA
1/3rd the time. And you can go up and down way easier, too.
Re: Garage lift options
ThatDudeInBlue testing a Quick Jack. That's the good part. The bad part is it's on a Civic. I still want this QuickJack though.
EDIT:
Now with link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EQjsTfa6TY
EDIT:
Now with link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EQjsTfa6TY
Re: Garage lift options
Couple things. First, after talking to someone who just built a garage and had an opener put in, I think the plan for Jamie's bay would be to change the opener style to one that goes on the side, assuming I have enough ceiling height to clear. That would buy me an extra foot or so of height which is sorely needed for lifting a vehicle. And I'd probably be in a position where I'd still need to close the garage door (and couldn't open it with the vehicle above a certain height). Then again that may just be for max height and max height isn't always needed. I think I can already get the SRX high enough for a full tire rotation with the garage door open so that is good to know. It may really only be the SRX that has height concerns with the garage door and opener in place.
Now let's look at the current Quick Jack offerings.
https://www.quickjack.com/car-lift-systems.html
There are a lot. They have two major characteristics: Lift capacity and length/spacing (think long vs short wheelbase). They don't have every combination but there are weight capacities of 3500, 5000, 6000 and 7000 lbs, as well as three different lengths (SLX, EXT and XLT, for short, medium and long). They are slowly building out their line to accommodate all needs, with six options available currently. I think the SLX options are right out, as is the 3,500 lb option. So I think I would narrow down to the latter three:
BL-5000EXT (5,000 lbs, medium length)
$1,420.00
BL-7000EXT (7,000 lbs, medium length)
$1,575.00
BL-6000XLT (6,000 lbs, long length)
$1,695.00
Some interesting specs.
Here's what they say about the "EXT" which used to be the longest offering until they added an even longer XLT:
- No block
- Small rubber block
- Large rubber block
- Stacked blocks
- SUV adapter
- SUV adapter with pin extension
Generally you would use more adapter if the lift has to raise much off the ground before it gets to the lifting points, because otherwise you are throwing away height. On taller vehicles it is conceivable that without using some of these spacers, you may not even get the tires completely off the ground so they have their place. You may also need height for some jobs including exhaust work, transmission, or even removing an engine from the bottom (not sure if that is possible even at the max height). For oil changes, tire rotations, brakes and those kinds of things max height is probably not needed though it is still nice to have the fully drooped suspension at a comfortable working height when sitting on a roller stool.
Here are the key height specs for the 5000EXT:
From a total lift height standpoint you can see the progression as the different options are added. Again, those heights are at the point of contact with the vehicle, wherever that is.
Now let's look at the current Quick Jack offerings.
https://www.quickjack.com/car-lift-systems.html
There are a lot. They have two major characteristics: Lift capacity and length/spacing (think long vs short wheelbase). They don't have every combination but there are weight capacities of 3500, 5000, 6000 and 7000 lbs, as well as three different lengths (SLX, EXT and XLT, for short, medium and long). They are slowly building out their line to accommodate all needs, with six options available currently. I think the SLX options are right out, as is the 3,500 lb option. So I think I would narrow down to the latter three:
BL-5000EXT (5,000 lbs, medium length)
$1,420.00
BL-7000EXT (7,000 lbs, medium length)
$1,575.00
BL-6000XLT (6,000 lbs, long length)
$1,695.00
Some interesting specs.
Here's what they say about the "EXT" which used to be the longest offering until they added an even longer XLT:
They also offer multiple block styles and options include:EXTENDED-LENGTH Car Lift Design
The BL-5000EXT portable car lift has been redesigned to accommodate vehicles with longer wheelbases. We’ve increased the overall frame length and lift point spread by 6”. As a result, the minimum lift point spread is now 6” longer, as well. Our new portable car lift design better accommodates longer wheelbases and/or extended lift point spreads.
SLX minimum lift point spread: 29.5”
EXT minimum lift point spread: 37.4”
SLX maximum lift point spread: 60”
EXT maximum lift point spread: 66”
SLX overall frame length: 71”
EXT overall frame length: 75” (5000 model only)
- No block
- Small rubber block
- Large rubber block
- Stacked blocks
- SUV adapter
- SUV adapter with pin extension
Generally you would use more adapter if the lift has to raise much off the ground before it gets to the lifting points, because otherwise you are throwing away height. On taller vehicles it is conceivable that without using some of these spacers, you may not even get the tires completely off the ground so they have their place. You may also need height for some jobs including exhaust work, transmission, or even removing an engine from the bottom (not sure if that is possible even at the max height). For oil changes, tire rotations, brakes and those kinds of things max height is probably not needed though it is still nice to have the fully drooped suspension at a comfortable working height when sitting on a roller stool.
Here are the key height specs for the 5000EXT:
First, you get 3" of min height fully collapsed with no blocks at all. So if the frame/lifting point is under 3", that is going to be a show stopper. You probably would want to use some kind of rubber and with the small block the min height goes up to 3.8". Height is also important if the use case is to put the two lifts in the center next to each other, drive over it and then pull them out to their positions. So it has to clear the front lip and any other low points. 3" is pretty low but I will measure the front deflector on my CTS-V as that would be my lowest.A - Collapsed 3" / 76 mm
B - Collapsed w/ Small Block 3.8" / 97 mm
C - Raised (Frame Only) 17.6" / 447 mm
D - Raised (Small Block) 18.4" / 467 mm
E - Raised (Large Block) 19.2" / 487 mm
F - Raised (Stacked Blocks) 21.3" / 542 mm
G - SUV Adapters 20.3" / 516 mm
H - SUV Adapters (w/ Pin) 23.3" / 592 mm
From a total lift height standpoint you can see the progression as the different options are added. Again, those heights are at the point of contact with the vehicle, wherever that is.
Re: Garage lift options
Now let's compare the three lift options.
Or go here: https://www.quickjack.com/quickjack-features.html
The first thing I'd probably do is measure between all lifting points on all of my vehicles to get a sense of where my requirements really fall.
The EXT does 66" max and the new XLT does 75.8".
The total frame lengths run from 75-76" to 86" for the models I mentioned above. So it would be good to measure between the tires but I do know my car wheelbases go sort of like this: 113.4" for the CTS-V, 116.4" for the SRX and STS and 115.9" for the Roadmaster so they are all grouped closely together (small cars are not my thing). The truck is a lot longer but I don't know if that will even fit in the garage in the first place though I could use the quick jacks in the driveway I guess. I will measure just to know but it has a full frame so it is much more flexible on lift points - probably just put the Quick Jack in a location that will balance the weight, centered under each frame rail, and lift it up.
Based on some rough math, if the wheelbase is 116", and the tire height is around 27", then the narrowest distance between the two tires (which would actually hit the body but this is a worst-case number) would be around 89". The XLT is 86" and that would already clear. Since it really only needs to clear at the bottom 3-4" of tire, there would probably be at least another foot so there should be no concern for me personally on the XLT length. The Gen 5 Camaro is 112.3" which is in the same ballpark and while the clearance is a little less, it should also slide between the tires. For Bill I'd want to look at the 3 and the RAV4 though. I suspect the 5000EXT would be fine for both of us actually. The 5000EXT also has the benefit of matching the lowest min height of the lesser offerings that I haven't even mentioned, so it's sort of max specs with min height which is seemingly optimal. I have fewer concerns about frame height though the CTS-V isn't exactly tall. So while I would also consider the 5000EXT I'd probably also take a peek at the new 6000XLT or the 7000EXT just to see if those would serve me better for some reason.
To recap:
BL-5000EXT (5,000 lbs, medium length)
$1,420.00
BL-7000EXT (7,000 lbs, medium length)
$1,575.00
BL-6000XLT (6,000 lbs, long length)
$1,695.00
The first thing I'd probably do is measure between all lifting points on all of my vehicles to get a sense of where my requirements really fall.
The EXT does 66" max and the new XLT does 75.8".
The total frame lengths run from 75-76" to 86" for the models I mentioned above. So it would be good to measure between the tires but I do know my car wheelbases go sort of like this: 113.4" for the CTS-V, 116.4" for the SRX and STS and 115.9" for the Roadmaster so they are all grouped closely together (small cars are not my thing). The truck is a lot longer but I don't know if that will even fit in the garage in the first place though I could use the quick jacks in the driveway I guess. I will measure just to know but it has a full frame so it is much more flexible on lift points - probably just put the Quick Jack in a location that will balance the weight, centered under each frame rail, and lift it up.
Based on some rough math, if the wheelbase is 116", and the tire height is around 27", then the narrowest distance between the two tires (which would actually hit the body but this is a worst-case number) would be around 89". The XLT is 86" and that would already clear. Since it really only needs to clear at the bottom 3-4" of tire, there would probably be at least another foot so there should be no concern for me personally on the XLT length. The Gen 5 Camaro is 112.3" which is in the same ballpark and while the clearance is a little less, it should also slide between the tires. For Bill I'd want to look at the 3 and the RAV4 though. I suspect the 5000EXT would be fine for both of us actually. The 5000EXT also has the benefit of matching the lowest min height of the lesser offerings that I haven't even mentioned, so it's sort of max specs with min height which is seemingly optimal. I have fewer concerns about frame height though the CTS-V isn't exactly tall. So while I would also consider the 5000EXT I'd probably also take a peek at the new 6000XLT or the 7000EXT just to see if those would serve me better for some reason.
To recap:
BL-5000EXT (5,000 lbs, medium length)
$1,420.00
BL-7000EXT (7,000 lbs, medium length)
$1,575.00
BL-6000XLT (6,000 lbs, long length)
$1,695.00
Re: Garage lift options
Gonna need the 6000XLT if I end up with a W221. Distance between jack points is allegedly around 74". Only the new XLT would handle that.
Re: Garage lift options
Ha. Ordered the 6000ELX 5 days before I bought my S550. That's really why I bought it. Already had the jack for it.
Please circle which car you have.
Comes with four 3" lifting blocks and a pair of 2" ones. There are also adapters and other things like pinch weld blocks. I'll start with these and I think they'll be alright.
So this all went pretty well but I have two main complaints. One I already addressed and one I was unable to address.
- The thread sealant they give you says it needs some time to cure. Ain't nobody got time for that. Basically all fittings leaked after I used this. Maybe if I let it sit 24 hours without pressurizing or something but it is just foolish. Ripped all 6 fittings apart that required sealant, cleaned off the goo, and used proper teflon tape. Guess what? No leaks. Sigh.
- One of the air cylinders has a pretty significant leak. By significant I mean it leaks down to zero PSI in a matter of an hour or so. They are supposed to be charged to 50 psi and they help push down the hydraulic ram particularly when there is no weight on the jacks. One of them holds air fine and actually had over 50 psi from shipment which means it probably doesn't leak. But the other one does. I tried tightening the valve core. I tried replacing the valve core. I removed the air fitting and used teflon tape on those threads. Nothing worked. I don't know where the air is going and I don't hear a leak but it's going somewhere. Unfortunately the air cylinder is welded to the hydraulic cylinder so my guess is this will require replacement of the entire cylinder. Doesn't look hard to replace actually. Two long bolts, pull bolts out, cylinder comes out. I'll have to redo the right angle fitting and also bleed again (more ATF) but oh well.
The thing with the air is, I could use it like this. Right now what will happen is one will sort of force itself down and that will actually make the one with the dead air cylinder raise. Kind of annoying. I could discharge the one that holds air pressure but then they'll go down slower than they should. I mean this was $2k so they can go ahead and make it work right for me.
It takes a tiny bit over 2 quarts of ATF (maybe 2L?). I found some old Advance Auto Dex/Merc for this purpose which was handy. I figure this will be lifting the STS soon so for max compatibility I had to use Dexron-III compatible fluid. Obviously.
Re: Garage lift options
Already got a response. Interesting but corroborates what I was saying I guess.
So I guess I could air it up each time I use it and eventually just air the other one down and never deal with the air again. I guess that's OK. I mean I haven't actually tried using it with both air cylinders empty. It might go down just fine, especially after everything is broken in as he states. Part of me wonders if they've had a ton of issues with these before finally concluding they aren't really worth the hassle. Meh.Regarding ticket # 94162,
Hope all is well.
We are now recommending releasing the air from both cylinders.
During testing, we discovered the frames raise and lower evenly without weight if the air cylinders are empty.
The only function of the air cylinder is to assist with lowering the lift the remaining 1-2 inches once the tires are grounded and the weight of the car is no longer on the frames.
The air cylinders are most useful the first few times the lift is used, as the cylinder is still new.
If it stays up those couple of inches, you can put a little weight on it to bring them down.
Once your seals and pistons are lubricated, the frames will fully lower without the assistance of the air cylinder.
We will no longer be adding air cylinders to the frames of future QuickJack models as it is not needed to operate the jack and raise and lower the car.
Per this change, replacement cylinders will only be sent out due to leaking fluid.
Thank you
Jordyn Hilton
Call Center Customer Care Specialist
Office
251-408-9619 EXT 440
www.bendpak.com
Re: Garage lift options
I tried it on the STS job. It lowered fine. Maybe a tad slow once the car was supported by its own wheels. Nothing bad and WAY better than having them go down at different rates.