Mercedes E63S thread

[kevm14]

Bought this today. It's a 2014 Mercedes E63 AMG S model. Or E63S for short. Mandatory AWD (67% rear bias). 5.5L twin turbo V8. 577 HP and 590 lb-ft (base is 550 and 531). I got 23.7 mpg on the ride home from NJ. This is about as fast as a W222 S65 (2015+, which I cannot afford) and should be a little less scary to own (everything is relative). The S model also adds an alcantara steering wheel, Titanium colored wheels and a real limited slip rear diff. It is limited to 186 mph. The base model is limited to 155. How limiting.

https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check-lo ... B1EA949808

Turbo related facts:
- The S model makes its additional 27 hp from an extra 1.5 psi, for a total of 14.5 psi (I think they call that 1 bar)
- They say it makes 590 lb-ft from 1,750 to 5,000 which is pretty incredible
- MB/AMG was proud of this engine in terms of its performance to fuel efficiency ratio. I would have to agree with that based on initial data. It does support stop/start in Eco+Comfort mode which I tried. It does in fact work perfectly. But it's lame and soul-killing. A cool engineering side effect is that when warm it sounds like it needs half a crank to bark to life which is pretty satisfying.

This is based on the W212 platform which was the very next generation after the W211 platform that my E55 was on. Mercedes runs maybe a longer than average lifecycle on some of their vehicles, and they sell a LOT of E-classes globally. One thing that amplifies the sense that they seem way more than one generation apart is that the E55 was a pre-facelift W211 (03-06) and this car is a facelift W212 (14-16). So basically I had an earlier W211 car and now I have a later W212. There you go, 10 years apart. This W212 facelift might be one of the most significant front end mid-generation changes in E-class history though. They completely changed the look of the car (again, in the front). The W212 when it came out for 2010 still was using the split headlight design introduced with the W210 way back in the 90s. They started to go for a more homegenous look in the 2014 timeframe and the C, E and S started to look a lot more similar as each platform was revised.

As a result the car is a weird mix of 2010 stuff (most of the interior and probably the rear end entirely), plus some more modern stuff (mostly the front end plus the drivetrain). For example, my car has LED headlights. And with some tinkering in some tools I currently don't possess, you can turn on the fancy Euro adaptive high beam tech which essentially locally dims the high beam just to avoid lighting up cars in front of you. So fancy. This car also has full driver assistance crap, minus Distronic Plus w/ Steering Assist (boooo). The good news is, you can not only turn off each nanny individually, but most of the features seem to have multiple sensitivity settings. They actually tried to make it useful and not just annoying. It also has a 360 camera system which was pretty advanced for 2014.

The drivetrain got a fairly big overhaul in the E63 for 2014 also, with mandatory 4Matic in the US market. The engines in the base and S model also got power/torque bumps. New for 2011 with the S63 (and having replaced the notorious M156), my 2014 M157 theoretically avoids most of the issues the early ones had. The transmission is the 722.9 but in MCT configuration. I think that means multi-clutch technology. Essentially the torque converter is totally different. It is a wet clutch pack and NOT a hydraulic torque converter. This gives a more direct connection to the engine and allows much faster shifts. Behind the MCT thing is mostly a regular Mercedes 722.9 7 speed automatic. That's a thing they did. I can't remember if the 2012 E63 used the MCT or if it was new for 2014. I hope it wasn't new for 2014...

Update: it was new for the 2010 E63 so that's definitely good news.

It's running these tires currently:
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp? ... toModClar=

I called it correctly. They look like competition to the Michelin Pilot Super Sport or possibly the PS4S.

Generated a short list of items that need repair:
[X]- (Dealer) Both trunk hinge covers and plastic retainers
[X]- (Dealer/free) Both key fob batteries were totally dead
[X]- (Dealer) Right rear tail light running light portion (horizontal LED strips) non-functional (common issue)
[X]- (eBay used) Both rear shocks are leaking (and are factory Monroe - WTF!!)
[ ]- Need new rear lower control arm covers. I zip-tied them on but they are cheap. $24 for the pair at dealer.
[X]- (FCP Euro) Right air intake tube is torn (common)
[X]- Sunroof creaks (needs bolts tightened which is free but a little laborious)
[X]- Torque steer? Pulls right under hard acceleration. Or needs an alignment I guess.
[X]- A/C light blinks 3 times and goes off when I ask for A/C. Quick forum search says either it is low on refrigerant or a pressure switch is bad. Update: charge was empty. I refilled with 2 cans plus 1 can stop leak plus 0.75-1 oz PAG-46. Light stays on now. We'll see how long it lasts. I don't think sitting for a year did this car any favors...also I didn't account for the $20 of R134a here....sue me.
[X]- When I installed the new air intake tubes I checked the cam position sensor plugs for oil. They all were oily so I ordered 4 cam position sensors and 4 new bolts from FCP Euro. I could have saved $40 buying them from the dealer but I chose the warranty since this seems to be a recurring issue. That was $201.93. UPDATE: Also ordered a complete sacrificial pigtail kit on eBay for $117.69.
[ ]- Looks like the rear axle boots are in pretty bad shape. I might want to investigate rebooting them if that is a reasonable option. Looks like I can get boots for the rear axle for about $68/ea. Seems like a big job but could save thousands (the axles are pricey). Actually my plan is to soak them in AT-205 and see if I can buy some extra time. Meanwhile I will stock the boots...UPDATE: OEM boots unobtanium now (so much for my Mercedes supplier superiority rant). Ordered a generic set of boots for way less on eBay. We'll see. UPDATE 2: eBay Febest ones out of stock!! Found two OEM kits for $179.31. damn. Order canceled - THEY DON'T HAVE THESE!! OMG.
[X]- Missing passenger side trunk cargo net. Found on eBay for $36.
[X]- Inspect vacuum pump check valve. I already bought a new one from Ukraine for $40. I'll be here in a month and a half. If mine is failed probably clean out the vacuum line and wastegate solenoid. I can also check for wastegate rod rattle at idle or when I press the brake pedal. I have no clue if mine is good or not but just adding this as a line item to check (I love my PM). UPDATE: I think I heard it rattle this morning in traffic so I hope the check valve arrives from Ukraine sooner than May. This issue can impact the way boost is delivered, particularly at lower RPM.

I found some 2025 batteries laying around that did restore the fobs but it says replace fob battery so I guess they are super old. At least the fobs work.

Well the trunk stuff was super cheap at $7/ea. No deals on used tail lights so I ordered a brand new one at $240 which seems not too bad. Ordered them at Mercedes of Warwick and will pick up.

The dealer will replace the fob batteries for free when I go pick up my parts. EDIT: they just gave me a 5 pack of Energizer 2025s, lol.

The shocks are not cheap at over $700/ea. So I went with a used set on eBay from a 2015 CLS63 for $382 including tax and shipping. That saves over $1000 so probably worth trying used.

Ordered right + left aftermarket intake air tubes from FCP Euro for $124.54 shipped.

Prices with tax and applicable shipping:
Dealer parts: $276 + $43.77 (control arm covers, random additional push pins)
FCP Euro: $124.54 + $201.93
eBay: $382.10 + $37.85 (passenger side cargo net) + $117.69

So far I am in it for $1183.88 for all the broken stuff plus the newer items I added to the list since buying. That's not too bad.

I will have to review the maintenance history. There is a lot. I should get the VMI when I go to Inskip for my order actually. Update: I got the VMI. This car has a rear subframe warranty for corrosion out to 2034! It also has 1 more year of extended A/C evaporator coverage due to a mold/mildew smell.

Update: I inspected the front end. Everything looks very good. Engine is totally dry. Diff seems dry. This is excellent news.

[kevm14]

[X]- Torque steer? Pulls right under hard acceleration. Or needs an alignment I guess.

I took a closer look at the wheels and tires. I don't see any cracks in any wheels. Not to say nothing is bent but not cracked at least.

Three of the tires are at about 4/32". One tire seems new, as the PO said. The left rear had a somewhat unhealthy wear pattern on the inside tread so I decided to rotate the tires left/right and see if that has any effect on the pull to the right. The tires didn't seem to be directional.

Result? Actually, it seems to have fixed it. Interesting.

I also inspected the front end while on the Quickjack and everything looked good. I can confirm this car is on struts up front. It probably could use a new set of upper strut mounts actually due to a steering groan.

[kevm14]

[X]- Missing passenger side trunk cargo net. Found on eBay for $36.

A nice, easy repair. The PO shoved huge hockey bags into this trunk for years so the original either got broken somehow or he pulled it to make room for hockey gear. Either way, it's back to the way it should be.

[kevm14]

[X]- Torque steer? Pulls right under hard acceleration. Or needs an alignment I guess.

I took a closer look at the wheels and tires. I don't see any cracks in any wheels. Not to say nothing is bent but not cracked at least.

Three of the tires are at about 4/32". One tire seems new, as the PO said. The left rear had a somewhat unhealthy wear pattern on the inside tread so I decided to rotate the tires left/right and see if that has any effect on the pull to the right. The tires didn't seem to be directional.

Result? Actually, it seems to have fixed it. Interesting.

I also inspected the front end while on the Quickjack and everything looked good. I can confirm this car is on struts up front. It probably could use a new set of upper strut mounts actually due to a steering groan.

Not fixed. Next opportunity I will swap the front tires and see if that helps. The front right is almost new and the front left is 4/32" so that could also contribute.

[kevm14]

[X]- Inspect vacuum pump check valve. I already bought a new one from Ukraine for $40. I'll be here in a month and a half. If mine is failed probably clean out the vacuum line and wastegate solenoid. I can also check for wastegate rod rattle at idle or when I press the brake pedal. I have no clue if mine is good or not but just adding this as a line item to check (I love my PM). UPDATE: I think I heard it rattle this morning in traffic so I hope the check valve arrives from Ukraine sooner than May. This issue can impact the way boost is delivered, particularly at lower RPM.

See check valve thread for info.

[kevm14]

[ ]- Torque steer? Pulls right under hard acceleration. Or needs an alignment I guess.
[ ]- Looks like the rear axle boots are in pretty bad shape. I might want to investigate rebooting them if that is a reasonable option. Looks like I can get boots for the rear axle for about $68/ea. Seems like a big job but could save thousands (the axles are pricey). Actually my plan is to soak them in AT-205 and see if I can buy some extra time. Meanwhile I will stock the boots...UPDATE: OEM boots unobtanium now (so much for my Mercedes supplier superiority rant). Ordered a generic set of boots for way less on eBay. We'll see. UPDATE 2: eBay Febest ones out of stock!! Found two OEM kits for $179.31. damn. Order canceled - THEY DON'T HAVE THESE!! OMG.

On the torque steer, I may have found the issue. This is the left front.

The paperwork indicates that the right front was doing this and I guess that's partly why the right front is brand new. Wish he did both fronts. Ended up ordering a new Continental SportContact SSR from Tire Pros. I think they quoted me like $320 mounted which is actually totally competitive.

For the axle boots, since I had the car in the air for an oil change, I was able to fully treat all front and rear axle boots with AT-205. The front boots looked pretty good. I don't know why the rears look like that.

[kevm14]

Right front shock P/N for future reference

Dealer (internet) price is a cool $1,000.
https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... 2123236200

MSRP is $1,520 which seems criminal for anything labeled Monroe. Plus it's not even an Airmatic shock!! I think MB screwed up the supplier choice on this one...

[kevm14]

[X]- Torque steer? Pulls right under hard acceleration. Or needs an alignment I guess.

New left front tire and alignment. Seems to have fixed the pull.

I don't think he touched the rear. He said I should go to FCP Euro and get a camber bolt kit and come back. Inside they said I have 30 days so I probably will pass. With the toe now in spec and "matching" front tires (tread seems slightly updated), I will simply monitor the wear.

Looks like the old tire is SportContact 5 SSR and the new tire is SportContact 5P SSR. The tread design is quite noticeably different.

When the rears become unsafe I'll decide what the plan is. The plan would be first to decide if the fronts are wearing properly. If not, probably do the camber bolt kit thing and maybe bring it somewhere else for alignment (dealer). If they are wearing fine, maybe just skip another alignment and do tires. For tires, I could do two more Continental SportContact SSR or whatever, in the rear, or do a full set of Michelin PSS (for example). Hopefully I can get into 2024 before I need to deal with this but I guess it depends how much I drive the car.

[kevm14]

Very minor but I noticed the right front hub cap was sort of falling off. I was able to pull it off and it is missing one of three tabs. I believe what happened is when this wheel was replaced, they don't come with hub caps. Whoever popped it out (or in) broke off that tab. So I bought a new one.

Under $20 with tax.

[kevm14]

General computer things for Benzninja:

- Turn on ILS
- Headlight fans staying on and running at weird times - update for this?
- Any worthwhile updates for ECU or TCU? Any downsides? Need to carefully consider.
- Any worthwhile updates to ANY module? Again, need to understand implications. Not looking to break any functionality or add new issues.
- Consider coding to save last drive mode selected (not willing to pay for this really)
- [Look at other items of possibility]