Simplicity Disaster

[bill25]

Going to need to do something with the carb on this thing... Oil was high again after just being changed and run a couple times for only a few minutes each time. Went to check oil today and drain some, and it smells like gas.

Probably going to do a rebuild kit or something.

Koehler rebuild kit - $72 - pretty ridiculous. Online they are anywhere from
https://www.kolerengineparts.com/kohler ... 4-757-03-s

Not sure what this is about: OEM for
https://www.amazon.com/KOHLER-PART-17-7 ... 2681&psc=1

and this for $12
https://www.amazon.com/Carbman-Carburet ... 2357&psc=1

Amazon's choice for 10 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Overh ... 621&sr=8-2

Stens for $48
https://www.amazon.com/Stens-055-529-Ca ... 401&sr=8-9

[kevm14]

On the Simplicity?

Isn't there a fuel shutoff?

That seems to have "solved" the issue on my Deutz. The Simplicity has no shutoff and somehow doesn't seem to have this problem.

[bill25]

No shutoff... Wouldn't really prevent the bowl from draining every time though right? Probably the hard start problem all along.

Replacement aftermarket carbs:

$87
https://www.amazon.com/Euros-2485359-S- ... 524&sr=8-4

$57
https://www.amazon.com/Dosens-Carbureto ... 524&sr=8-3

[kevm14]

Make sure to check eBay after all the posts I've made that stuff is cheaper there...

[kevm14]

That thing I said.

$45.73
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Wit ... 3349574280?

[kevm14]

$42.99 and comes with a bunch of stuff that you probably don't need.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Ass ... Sw9Shc50eu

$43.50
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2485359-248535 ... 2785940444

[kevm14]

However, you COULD give this a shot.

$6.90
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Reb ... Swd~dcz9lC

It is possible that the new float needle solves your issue. I think this is what I would do for $6.90. You can shop around and see if there is a Kohler branded kit like this for a few bucks more.

[kevm14]

Actual Kohler rebuild kit.

$41.89
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Kohler-Car ... 2007208615

There is a school of thought that says an OEM rebuild kit is a better plan than a Chinese carburetor for the same price. There is also a school of thought that says swapping the entire carb is easier than rebuilding, though it seems to use O-rings rather than paper gaskets so I bet it's not that hard, and it's not like the kit includes 5 million tiny parts. It doesn't look that bad.

Then there is the school of thought that says $6.90 is cheap as hell and it gets you a new float needle which may be your entire problem.

Some info:

Great Video, John. I have that same motor in my tractor (Massey Ferguson 2927 - a relabeled Simplicity Legacy XL). Your videos were super helpful. I didn't find your video on the coil, though. Two things I would add to help anyone reading this. When rebuilding this carburetor, in addition to the carburetor rebuild kit 24 757 03-S, don't forget to purchase the Diaphragm Rebuild Kit. Kohler Part number 24 757 08-S. It has a service bulletin number TT-5153 in it, that instructs you to ream out the plunger shaft hole (if not done already on a later production model) using a numbered drill #23 Drill bit, to make the plunger rod slides in and out easier. It can corrode, and stick. (Requiring one polish off the corrosion, of course.) So, the hole needs to be 0.153in. That gives it a lot of play to operate without binding.

My saga - I had my carburetor rebuilt by professionals, twice, each time for about $300 in parts and labor. The first time, last year, I had to run the engine partially choked to get enough rpm to drive the hydraulics. The second time, it ran for a couple hours, then wouldn't stay running. The professionals didn't replace the diaphragm. When I took it apart following your videos, I found that the diaphragm was in upside down. There's a rim ridge, that fits into the groove. Being upside down, I think sealed the vent-injection holes off. The motor would start, but go into oscillation flapping the choke valve. I did the MDI coil upgrade 25 707 03-S, choosing the right one from the Kohler Parts Bulletin #259 for Command Twin..., but probably didn't need it. But now, the engine is running strong. I think that diaphragm replacement was the key. The new one, was flat, and tight. The old one, was visibly stretched, and warped, compared to the new one. The diaphragm kit comes with a new spring, too, making it more responsive to micro-throttle adjustments from the Governor. Since this motor is constantly being adjusted under load by the governor, there's no way that diaphragm isn't going to wear - the accelerator pump is moving constantly as load goes up and down on the governor. I also put in a new fuel pump kit (that entire valve cover assembly). All totaled, my work got the engine running better than the professionals that rebuilt the carburetor - and for about half the cost I had already laid out. Doing it myself, with lots of photos, got it back in shape where it needs to be.

Diaphragm kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Part-24-757-08 ... SwCOheFFvX
OEM: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-24-757 ... Swv-ZaQyok

You can see the bulletin paper through the bag.

Maybe that's part of the issue? If the knockoff carb has solved all of those issues, then I guess I'd shift my vote back to that...

[bill25]

The first one says CV versus CH. I have a CH23s

[kevm14]

Looks to be compatible according to the listing. May be the same. I think the part number is the same for either vertical or horizontal shaft.