Step One Remove Engine

[Adam]

I don't know from where to where the line was carrying current but it obviously was connecting two things in a way that was the path of least resistance. Which is hilarious.

Every part of that car is hilarious.

[Fast_Ed]

That's why grounds are sketchy. You think a ground is disconnected, and things stop. But no, electricity just finds another path (either connect or disconnect all - "some" is the worst, which I guess is what happened). And that car has a particularly sketchy history with grounds.

I don't know from where to where the line was carrying current but it obviously was connecting two things in a way that was the path of least resistance. Which is hilarious.

The strange thing is that I hooked up the engine ground I built to overcome the grounding issue. But the stock transmission ground had been forgotten. I would have thought the engine ground would be sufficient.

Anyways, I'm getting 15psi of oil pressure at idle under normal 'fully warmed up, stoplight' conditions. Ranges down to ~11 psi under
'15 minutes of stop-and-go' conditions. But never got lower than that after bottoming out at 11, so consistent double-digit oil pressure. The stock oil pressure light trips at 4-7psi, so for a normal owner without an oil pressure gauge, this would have been "fine forever".

So far, 150 miles on the car. Only issue is a need to better fasten the battered under-engine plastics. They rub the front wheel at high speed.

Also rear exhaust is needed to pass inspection. It's the stock 165k/15 year old exhaust, so tough to complain about that one.

[Fast_Ed]

Every part of that car is hilarious.

To be fair, MANY parts are hilarious, and others are just tragic.

[kevm14]

Anyways, I'm getting 15psi of oil pressure at idle under normal 'fully warmed up, stoplight' conditions. Ranges down to ~11 psi under '15 minutes of stop-and-go' conditions. But never got lower than that after bottoming out at 11, so consistent double-digit oil pressure. The stock oil pressure light trips at 4-7psi, so for a normal owner without an oil pressure gauge, this would have been "fine forever".

What OQE do you have for other B235R oil pressures? I agree about the light so if the survey question is "does your oil pressure light ever come on" the answer is probably mostly "no."

Probably reasonable at this point to just drive it like that, and whatever happens, happens.

[Adam]

Probably reasonable at this point to just drive it like that, and whatever happens, happens.

Especially since it doesn't seem to leak enough fluids to require a belt change every 100 miles.

[Fast_Ed]

What OQE do you have for other B235R oil pressures? I agree about the light so if the survey question is "does your oil pressure light ever come on" the answer is probably mostly "no."

Probably reasonable at this point to just drive it like that, and whatever happens, happens.

OQE, that's funny. I seem to remember others posting idle pressures in the 15 psi range. But I cant find them right now.

I have found people with oil pressures in the 6 psi range who are understandably worried.

Others do report 15psi at hot idle.... Most are asking whether this is ok or not. Some people come in and tell them not to drive the car another km. Other posters say its normal.

At this point, it is what it is. No in-situ bearing replacements are happening. The engine is staying in the car. I'll keep an eye on the gauge, of course. But unless it starts to sound unhealthy, I'm just going to drive it normally.

[Adam]

I took some pictures of the turbo rebuild. I will finally post them.

Center section with the compressor and turbine housings removed. Removal of the housings was accomplished by removing a band clamp on the exhaust side and a large snap ring on the intake side.

WP_20151111_001.jpg

Closeup of the compressor wheel. Notice the red marker. This is done to mark the torque position of the nut, shaft, and wheel during reassembly. For balance, or something.

WP_20151111_002 1.jpg

All the internal parts. One bearing is still attached to the turbine. Notice the wear on the thrust palate (brass thing) and the crusty oil on the main seal. Not shown are the two end seals (like piston rings). They were totally caked with dried oil. No wonder oil was going through the turbo.

WP_20151111_004 1.jpg

I didn't take too many shots of the reassembly, but here is everything back together. You can see the band clamp in this shot. Also of note, this turbo uses dowel pins to properly clock the compressor and turbine housings relative to the center section.

WP_20151111_005 1.jpg

[kevm14]

So this car has a turbo but doesn't run 9s? I don't understand.

[Adam]

So this car has a turbo but doesn't run 9s? I don't understand.

Needs more cylinders.

[Fast_Ed]

Bad news on the turbo front... And poor timing on my part, given that you just posted this..

I'm not making boost anymore. Not a personal decision, but one the SAAB made all on its own yesterday.

Got to New London ( about a 50 mile drive) and hammered on a highway interchange. There was a bit of a stutter in power, then it started acting like there was no boost. not base boost (middle of yellow on turbo gauge), no boost (gauge stops at ambient pressure during wot acceleration)

My first thought is some intake plumbing came off, but alas, the car didn't stall at the stoplight. It ran perfectly, but with no boost.

Damn, I was hoping it would stall, and I'd just need to tighten a hose.

parked it, worked the day, then checked hoses and such before my drive home. No boost/vacuum hoses or intake hoses appear to have come off. I jiggled the wastegate lever to see if it was stuck.

Drove home and the car boosted normally.

Today on the way to work, no boost again. No turbo sound, or weird hiss that would indicate a leak.

Gonna have to pull intake or exhaust to see how it spins sometime over break.

Heck, I might even stop driving it until I know more. But probably not.