There is one hole facing down that is near where it would need to be to attach that bracket. And plenty of metal to put holes in if needed.Adam wrote:The existing bracket holes are not compatible as they go in horizontally. I'll take a picture of what is there before I reinstall tomorrow.kevm14 wrote:Or the holes were already there. I forget.
Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
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Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
It looks like that just unbolts. Drilling a few holes is no big deal.
Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
Good news! The Pypes system doesn't fit correctly. Sigh...
It looks like GM added the longer wheel base between the rear of the front seat and the front of the rear seat. That area is just aft of where the X part of the X-pipe would sit. I added extensions between the rear of the X-pipe and the mufflers, which is about 24" rearward of that area. The rear section of the X-pipe is actually at an angle (think of an isosceles triangle with the point of the tall edges at the X of the X-pipe), so adding length there actually pushes the mufflers farther apart than they would be on a B-body.
This shot is the front of the X-pipe with the mufflers attached and in the rubber hangers. It is as high as it can go without hitting the floor of the car due to where the mufflers sit. The mufflers. Notice they don't sit flat as the extension makes them have to rotate to sit in the hangers. You can see how low the front of the X-pipe is. There is no way to connect the front section to the converters with the mufflers attached.
I also hooked up the center section to the converters without the mufflers attached. Due to the layout of the floor, the exhaust needs to be lower than it would be on a B-body to not hit the floor of the car. Even with the pipe as high as it can go w/o interference, the mufflers are a good 4" below the hangers. Not great. I didn't line up the tailpipes in this configuration, but I'm pretty sure I would have clearance issues with them and the frame/axle if I moved them that low. Sorry, no pics of this arrangement.
So I'm pretty SOL on this venture. I could hack the Pypes system apart to change the angle of the pipes coming out of the X, but that sounds like a giant pain in the ass. I could get another Walker system and do this again in three years. I could try painting the Walker system and see if it lasts five years. Neither of those are great options either. I could also find an exhaust shop to make the center pipes to go with the mufflers of my choosing. Might not be a bad option.
I thing I'll price some things out and see if there is a cat-back system for this car. Ed is going to be so happy.
It looks like GM added the longer wheel base between the rear of the front seat and the front of the rear seat. That area is just aft of where the X part of the X-pipe would sit. I added extensions between the rear of the X-pipe and the mufflers, which is about 24" rearward of that area. The rear section of the X-pipe is actually at an angle (think of an isosceles triangle with the point of the tall edges at the X of the X-pipe), so adding length there actually pushes the mufflers farther apart than they would be on a B-body.
This shot is the front of the X-pipe with the mufflers attached and in the rubber hangers. It is as high as it can go without hitting the floor of the car due to where the mufflers sit. The mufflers. Notice they don't sit flat as the extension makes them have to rotate to sit in the hangers. You can see how low the front of the X-pipe is. There is no way to connect the front section to the converters with the mufflers attached.
I also hooked up the center section to the converters without the mufflers attached. Due to the layout of the floor, the exhaust needs to be lower than it would be on a B-body to not hit the floor of the car. Even with the pipe as high as it can go w/o interference, the mufflers are a good 4" below the hangers. Not great. I didn't line up the tailpipes in this configuration, but I'm pretty sure I would have clearance issues with them and the frame/axle if I moved them that low. Sorry, no pics of this arrangement.
So I'm pretty SOL on this venture. I could hack the Pypes system apart to change the angle of the pipes coming out of the X, but that sounds like a giant pain in the ass. I could get another Walker system and do this again in three years. I could try painting the Walker system and see if it lasts five years. Neither of those are great options either. I could also find an exhaust shop to make the center pipes to go with the mufflers of my choosing. Might not be a bad option.
I thing I'll price some things out and see if there is a cat-back system for this car. Ed is going to be so happy.
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Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
Yes, the LT1 hangers bolt to the frame.kevm14 wrote:It looks like that just unbolts. Drilling a few holes is no big deal.
Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
You will likely have better luck with the Dynomax catback or another non-X system.
Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
Walker (via RockAuto):
Left pipe - 56040 - $28.99
Right pipe - 55219 - $27.70
Left Muffler (SoundFX "performance") - 18599 - $33.99
Right Muffler (SoundFX "performance") - 18598 - $34.79
Left Muffler (QuietFlow) - 21111 - $64.79
Right Muffler (QuietFlow) - 21110 - $68.99
Jegs Performance Cat-back (aluminized) - $289.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance- ... 0/10002/-1
Borla Cat-back (stainless H-pipe) - $1205.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Borla/157/14504/10002/-1
Dynomax 2.5" (stainless) - 17375 - $584.99
http://www.dynomax.com/dual-2-5-cat-bac ... r-531.html
http://www.autozone.com/exhaust/exhaust ... 17_0_12460
Left pipe - 56040 - $28.99
Right pipe - 55219 - $27.70
Left Muffler (SoundFX "performance") - 18599 - $33.99
Right Muffler (SoundFX "performance") - 18598 - $34.79
Left Muffler (QuietFlow) - 21111 - $64.79
Right Muffler (QuietFlow) - 21110 - $68.99
Jegs Performance Cat-back (aluminized) - $289.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance- ... 0/10002/-1
Borla Cat-back (stainless H-pipe) - $1205.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Borla/157/14504/10002/-1
Dynomax 2.5" (stainless) - 17375 - $584.99
http://www.dynomax.com/dual-2-5-cat-bac ... r-531.html
http://www.autozone.com/exhaust/exhaust ... 17_0_12460
Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
You can order the Dynomax parts separately, but it appears most of them are special order if they are even available. Perhaps this system is discontinued?
Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
If I order them separately from Summit for $638.73. Not a great deal.
Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
AutoZone has a 20% off coupon for ship to home orders, which brings the cost down to $467.99.
However, while trying to checkout, they say that my quantity of 1 is not available, even though they show it in stock. Sigh.
However, while trying to checkout, they say that my quantity of 1 is not available, even though they show it in stock. Sigh.
Re: Fleetwood Exhaust Failure
The Dynomax system includes the 304 stainless Ultraflow SS mufflers and also stainless tips. I don't know if there is any other stainless content in the system. The over the axle pipes sure as hell are just regular galvanized. I liked that system when it was under $500 for the catback...
It seems like a reasonable solution might be to buy the Walker intermediate pipes. Can't you use the rest of the Pypes system then once you extend the intermediate pipes?
I believe the Borla is real stainless, hence the price. It is a very good sounding system and one of the few that is not 2.5". You probably won't be buying that.
It seems like a reasonable solution might be to buy the Walker intermediate pipes. Can't you use the rest of the Pypes system then once you extend the intermediate pipes?
I believe the Borla is real stainless, hence the price. It is a very good sounding system and one of the few that is not 2.5". You probably won't be buying that.