Hot water heater issues
Re: Hot water heater issues
Jamie showered. She did say she purposely kept it cooler than usual but she has hot water the whole time.
Re: Hot water heater issues
The water continues to be hotter than it was before the flush. Probably bought myself more time here.
Re: Hot water heater issues
I feel like it's degrading in performance again. I am probably going to do a real Hail Mary pass and do a vinegar flush. Remember the manual actually has instructions on how to do this so it's definitely a thing.
Re: Hot water heater issues
Now there is water periodically on the basement floor. First I thought it was the T&P valve leaking. But it's not. It could be coming from the outlet nipple but considering everything, I am not going to chase a repair like that because the thing is just old and even if that didn't leak I don't think it's performing at spec.
So I bought this:
https://www.bockwaterheaters.com/32e-with.html
https://www.bockwaterheaters.com/mwdown ... ink/id/18/
https://www.bockwaterheaters.com/mwdown ... ink/id/69/
From these guys:
https://www.plumberssupplyco.com/
Apparently they gave me a discount. Also they had one in stock in the Middletown location so that's not bad at all. Thought I was going to have to drive to Worcester or Watertown.
It's currently in my basement on its packaging pallet. Next step is to begin to gather the things I think I'll need to install. I am going to install in the same location as the old one. I will have to basically adapt a bunch of stuff:
- Swap over my oil burner and tune for proper mixture. Fortunately I have that gas analyzer now. The spec sheet says it takes the same 0.75 GPH 80A nozzle so as long as the depth of the unit is still proper this part isn't too bad. I will also have to wire it to the aquastat and shutoff switch/power. I may have to tweak and bend my oil line to mate to the burner because it won't be sitting in the exact same location as it is now.
- I don't think I will put this on the cinder blocks like the current one is. I may do bricks instead just so it's not directly on the concrete floor.
- Hot and cold water lines are on top of the unit, not on the side like my old one. I will attempt to cut off and connect with Pex. We'll see what kind of adapters I find and how much I can avoid soldering.
- This is also a top vent unit. Bock doesn't make a rear vent I guess. I plan to just go vertically, elbow and horizontal into chimney. I will delete the barometric damper and if I determine that there is a totally excessive draft I still could add one back in but based on my current one it is not needed because my chimney flow sucks.
So I bought this:
https://www.bockwaterheaters.com/32e-with.html
https://www.bockwaterheaters.com/mwdown ... ink/id/18/
https://www.bockwaterheaters.com/mwdown ... ink/id/69/
From these guys:
https://www.plumberssupplyco.com/
Apparently they gave me a discount. Also they had one in stock in the Middletown location so that's not bad at all. Thought I was going to have to drive to Worcester or Watertown.
It's currently in my basement on its packaging pallet. Next step is to begin to gather the things I think I'll need to install. I am going to install in the same location as the old one. I will have to basically adapt a bunch of stuff:
- Swap over my oil burner and tune for proper mixture. Fortunately I have that gas analyzer now. The spec sheet says it takes the same 0.75 GPH 80A nozzle so as long as the depth of the unit is still proper this part isn't too bad. I will also have to wire it to the aquastat and shutoff switch/power. I may have to tweak and bend my oil line to mate to the burner because it won't be sitting in the exact same location as it is now.
- I don't think I will put this on the cinder blocks like the current one is. I may do bricks instead just so it's not directly on the concrete floor.
- Hot and cold water lines are on top of the unit, not on the side like my old one. I will attempt to cut off and connect with Pex. We'll see what kind of adapters I find and how much I can avoid soldering.
- This is also a top vent unit. Bock doesn't make a rear vent I guess. I plan to just go vertically, elbow and horizontal into chimney. I will delete the barometric damper and if I determine that there is a totally excessive draft I still could add one back in but based on my current one it is not needed because my chimney flow sucks.
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Re: Hot water heater issues
Install list for myself:
2 x https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3- ... 44#overlay
Or a no solder option but requires Pex crimping: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4- ... /305440142
4 x https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3 ... /202270494
Sharkbite elbows in case I need them: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3 ... /202270511
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4- ... /301541217
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4- ... /301541219
That should take care of the water part. I can reuse a few short sections of pipe to sweat into the threaded adapter. Basically I need to make a nipple for the Sharkbite fitting. You can't slide it directly on the NPT adapter because it's not geometrically correct/uniform.
For the flue vent I need 6". I may be able to reuse some of my elbow stuff on my current one and maybe buy a straight section.
2 x https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3- ... 44#overlay
Or a no solder option but requires Pex crimping: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4- ... /305440142
4 x https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3 ... /202270494
Sharkbite elbows in case I need them: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3 ... /202270511
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4- ... /301541217
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4- ... /301541219
That should take care of the water part. I can reuse a few short sections of pipe to sweat into the threaded adapter. Basically I need to make a nipple for the Sharkbite fitting. You can't slide it directly on the NPT adapter because it's not geometrically correct/uniform.
For the flue vent I need 6". I may be able to reuse some of my elbow stuff on my current one and maybe buy a straight section.
Re: Hot water heater issues
Some pics.
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Re: Hot water heater issues
Removed burner, cleaned air tube. Vacuumed air tube and wiped down the nozzle. Everything looked pretty good. Electrode gap was as I set it. Beckett released some updated specs that move the electrodes closer to the nozzle (vertically) but it says it's to improve light off in cold situations. Mine lights off instantly so I'm leaving it alone.
I should change the main oil tank filter (don't have any in stock) and if that's clean as it usually is, I will probably just go another year on the water heater filter and nozzle.
I should change the main oil tank filter (don't have any in stock) and if that's clean as it usually is, I will probably just go another year on the water heater filter and nozzle.
Re: Hot water heater issues
I was corresponding with Bill about an intermittent boiler lockout issue he is having. I quickly honed in on the cad cell (eye) which is a safety system designed to shut off the burner if a flame is not detected within a preset window of time. I have never done anything with these in any of my service routines. The eye should be cleaned (a light film of soot can develop) and the resistance should be checked.
https://www.beckettcorp.com/support/tec ... -cad-cell/
His was reading like 15k burner off and ~5k burner on. Those are BAD values. It should be open circuit off, and under 1600 ohms running. I proved it by checking my furnace. It was open circuit off, and around 300 ohms running. I continued to discuss and decided to check my water heater. Oops, it's about as bad as Bill's! So I guess I need to procure one or two of these guys, although I have no trip out issues currently. Looks like you get a LOT of warning! Replacement seems really easy. You don't even have to replace the wiring. Just unplug the sensor and plug a new one in.
Looks like Amazon has the C554A for around $23. Home Depot stocks them at more than twice the price. I will see what my plumbing supply houses charge and probably pick up a pair when (if) I get my new well pressure tank.
https://www.beckettcorp.com/support/tec ... -cad-cell/
His was reading like 15k burner off and ~5k burner on. Those are BAD values. It should be open circuit off, and under 1600 ohms running. I proved it by checking my furnace. It was open circuit off, and around 300 ohms running. I continued to discuss and decided to check my water heater. Oops, it's about as bad as Bill's! So I guess I need to procure one or two of these guys, although I have no trip out issues currently. Looks like you get a LOT of warning! Replacement seems really easy. You don't even have to replace the wiring. Just unplug the sensor and plug a new one in.
Looks like Amazon has the C554A for around $23. Home Depot stocks them at more than twice the price. I will see what my plumbing supply houses charge and probably pick up a pair when (if) I get my new well pressure tank.
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