I have become a bit disenfranchised with the GMT-900s. They are rusty, expensive and the L92 isn't as infallible as I was hoping based on some research.
After some discussion with Bob I landed on a 2nd gen Tundra. The 5.7L should do GM 6.2L things, the transmissions are solid, the engines are pretty solid. The trucks tow 10,200 or something. Their only real downside is atrocious fuel economy, and that doesn't really matter for my use case.
Double cab is probably all I need and copilot tells me the Tundra has another 4.5" of combined front + rear legroom than my Ram which is probably exactly what I need. I do not want the ginormous crew cab. It's just needlessly large and also shrinks the bed to 5.5'. The double cab (extended cab) came in 6.5' and 8' beds. Again, the 8' bed is ginormous and ridiculous. So double cab + 6.5' bed is the ticket.
I would prefer a Limited trim since it has some nice stuff.
Only other problem is frame rot on these. But I can select for that easily enough by visual inspection.
Oddly there really doesn't seem to be a premium for these over an equivalent GM. I am not sure why I'd buy the GM, because these can go hundreds of thousands of miles.
They had a VERY long run from 2007 to 2021 with mostly the same stuff. I think the 5.7 3UR was the same all the way through. The older 4.7 timing belt V8 was replaced in 2010 by the 1UR 4.6 (this is pretty much identical to the M273 pairing of the 5.5L and 4.7L, and even the power/torque figures ar VERY similar). 2010 was a very minor update and 2014 was a real refresh. I can probably score a 10-13 for $6-10k with 200k-ish miles. Have my eye on a Limited in NJ for $7500 in fact.
General 2010 Toyota Tundra thread
Re: General 99 Ram thread
https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/entune/toyota_tundra
Looks like I can get a later model head unit, amp and this custom wiring harness to add AA/CarPlay.
Looks like I can get a later model head unit, amp and this custom wiring harness to add AA/CarPlay.
Re: General 99 Ram thread
Pre-trip list
- bill of sale filled out as appropriate
- pen
- inspection light
- ramps?
- Grab at least one plate from the Ram
- Bring windshield phone mount from truck
- Kingbolen scan dongle, pre-download/update Toyota
- Cash money
On site inspection, parked
- Verify finished exterior condition
- Verify legal lighting
- Detailed frame and exposed steel parts inspection
- Check for leaks and worn parts (including brakes, tires, belt, runners, boots)
- bed/tailgate
- inspect engine bay for fluid leaks and condition of components
- full interior visual inspection
- verify features/functions
- verify second row adequacy
- Full code scan, triage of anything concerning
Test drive
- general drive, include highway, vibrations, noises, clunks, problematic NVH
- climate control
- listen for wheel bearing noise
- test transfer case function
If still a go:
Deal
- do deal. Money, BOS, title sign
- ask for any records available
- ask for all keys
- any other accessories?
Before driving home
- install plate(s)
- turn on insurance (from saved quote)
- general pre-trip checks (tires, fluids, lights)
- pair phone
- bill of sale filled out as appropriate
- pen
- inspection light
- ramps?
- Grab at least one plate from the Ram
- Bring windshield phone mount from truck
- Kingbolen scan dongle, pre-download/update Toyota
- Cash money
On site inspection, parked
- Verify finished exterior condition
- Verify legal lighting
- Detailed frame and exposed steel parts inspection
- Check for leaks and worn parts (including brakes, tires, belt, runners, boots)
- bed/tailgate
- inspect engine bay for fluid leaks and condition of components
- full interior visual inspection
- verify features/functions
- verify second row adequacy
- Full code scan, triage of anything concerning
Test drive
- general drive, include highway, vibrations, noises, clunks, problematic NVH
- climate control
- listen for wheel bearing noise
- test transfer case function
If still a go:
Deal
- do deal. Money, BOS, title sign
- ask for any records available
- ask for all keys
- any other accessories?
Before driving home
- install plate(s)
- turn on insurance (from saved quote)
- general pre-trip checks (tires, fluids, lights)
- pair phone
General 2010 Toyota Tundra thread
New truck! Got it in Dover, NJ. It's a Limited 4WD with the 5.7L (3UR-FE, which is NOT the flex fuel version), tow package, lots of toys, and "TRD Sport" which is an appearance package. 218,xxx miles.
Pics courtesy of Adam: https://1drv.ms/f/c/9d52bc4a50b7657e/Ig ... 4aKoxrWWoI
Fun facts:
I got my 91 Ranger in early 2008. So it was 17 years old. Had something in the low 70s for mileage. Sold it to Adam in probably 2017. This means I had it for 9 years.
I got my 99 Ram in early 2017, so it was 18 years old. Had maybe 119k? Assuming I sell it soon, I will have had it for 9 years.
This truck is 15 years old and is the highest mileage vehicle I've ever bought. Far from the cheapest, though.
I can probably have this Tundra for as long as I can keep the rust at bay. I will be soaking it in Surface Shield immediately, for a change. There are plenty of trouble spots. Only "serious" issue is some holes in the bed under the cargo cover. I may pull the cargo cover out and douche the bed inside and then also underneath. I could probably do a repair patch but it may also just be fine like that if I can stop further rust. I probably want to brush the loose stuff off. The frame rust is concentrated along the welds primarily but there are some other areas. The brake lines themselves look pretty damn good, though the flare nuts are fairly rusty. This is good because those have significant metal on them. So I'll just douche all of it. Should be fine.
Suspension appears to be all original and rides/handles great. Shocks aren't leaking. Actually, it's not fully stock. It turns out it has a 3" lift on the front and something less (for "leveling") on the rear (maybe 2"?). It's funny that I didn't notice until we said "what is that weird thing on top of the front coil over?" It's not objectionably tall though if I could snap my fingers I'd probably put it back to stock. Not sure I feel like doing that. I can slide under the truck, even at the running board. Not with a lot of clearance but I fit. Neat. I brought ramps but with the lift, they were not necessary.
Cosmetically it is pretty good inside and out. I love the Limited trim level, very pleased with that. Power folding mirrors, cup holders and storage everywhere, factory nav, JBL with a factory sub, heated seats, dual auto climate, trans temp gauge, tow package. I was able to pair my phone for calls and audio - pretty good for a 2010. Power tilt/telescoping steering wheel, even. Aftermarket remote start. Heat and A/C work. Full trip computer. I got 17.1 mpg indicated on the way home, and made it on the fuel that was in it when I bought it. Unusual for a used car purchase, at any price. Has a factory backup camera. Tonneau cover. Full power seats. Power lumbar. Also has some kind of power thigh bolster thing. Being a Limited it also has the 5 pass seating with console shifter. I guess 6 is cool in theory but I've never used it on my Ram. I guess the TRD Sport package adds the 20" wheels. The door sticker says 30 psi front and 33 psi rear which seems incredibly low for something that can tow 10,000 lbs. EDIT: the internet agrees. I may do at least 35/35 for tire wear and slightly better fuel economy.
The steering is excellent. Maybe average for a car but for a truck, it's amazing. It is approximately 1,000,000 times better than any GM truck I've driven, and also my Ram. It is constant ratio which is unusual.
Brakes feel mushy (not really any worse than the Quadrasteer I drove) so I may attempt a bleed.
Engine sounds and runs great. It is very snappy off the line, which is pretty satisfying. While moving you can feel the 5,4xx lbs more but it has plenty of power. Transmission seems to work with no issues but is probably due for a fluid change. I think the engine is due, as well. It seems to leak nothing and he said it doesn't burn any oil, either.
The Double cab is PERFECT. Ian had plenty of room in the back, which is a big difference compared to my Ram. Also, after adjusting the driver's seat, I tested sitting behind myself. Shockingly, there is plenty of room. My knees didn't even touch the seat. So this is TOTALLY adequate and I absolutely cannot imagine wanting to sacrifice a foot of bed for another foot of 2nd row room. Power rear windows, too. Oh and power sliding rear window.
Seems to have LED headlights, fog lights and also has some aux LED lighting behind the grill with a switch hanging below the driver's knee panel...
High beams are OK. Aux lights need to be aimed down. Low beams are "ok" but the aim is poor. Speaking of aim, this has a neat headlight aiming knob. Idea is you level the lights empty and at setting 0. Then you turn the knob up as the load increases. It has a max of 5 which would be a full load and lowest headlight setting. I noticed on the drive home that it needs setting 5 just to stop blinding people so this is all out of whack.
There is a decent list of things he's done.
- Alternator around 2 years ago
- Starter around 1.5 years ago. This is great because they are TERRIBLE. Buried under the pass exhaust manifold.
- So he also did manifolds and gaskets. He thought both sides but certainly at least the pass side. He said he also did the studs.
- Some kind of cheap catback exhaust 6 months ago as the stock muffler was going. This one is pretty DIY but may pass inspection and if so I'll just run it. Adam says high temp paint can help these aluminized systems last. Guess I'll try that.
- He did the transfer case actuator as it was seized (common from disuse). While underneath he also did the front diff actuator. So those are new.
- Has a remote start as I mentioned. He did give me another key with the factory fob, which all works.
- Upgraded the oil filter cap (it uses a cartridge like Mercedes, on the cooler, but is underneath) to metal. Factory is plastic. He gave me the factory one and said there is nothing wrong with it.
- Spark plugs and coil packs 2 months ago or so. No symptoms but thought more of a tuneup item. Unfortunately these are probably no name coils so something to watch out for over time. I don't think any of the parts he used were from Toyota.
-Engine air and cabin air around 2 months ago
- Says he rotates the tires every 6 months with oil (synthetic)
- Probably due for an oil change
- Did the front and rear calipers, and pads, and rotors fairly recently. Wow. Rotors are drilled and slotted, at least the front
- New gas cap from Autozone (original clutch was slipping so it wouldn't seal right)
- Tires are pretty fresh, some kind of Coopers. Date codes all August 2024.
- Driver's side mirror turned brown so he replaced the glass
- Brand new steel driveshaft. Original aluminum shaft just had a bad U-joint. He gave me the old shaft. I should check the carrier bearing.
- All 4 O2 sensors
ALL things considered, I think this was a good buy for $7,500. I don't think the seats are quite as comfortable as the GMT-800 but they are probably better than my Ram. It also probably gets similar fuel economy to my Ram. People say the 5.7 is thirsty but matching my 2WD Ram is impressive. It's probably 17-18 highway and that's about what the rating says. Sounds right. I may try 93 octane and see what that does. Toyota says 87 but engines with higher mileage can benefit from more octane. I should run some Techron though it. I didn't even check the oil before driving home.
VIN decode from Toyota attached. Also attached Carfax; he had it since 2018 and 134k. I may make a Monroney at some point. There isn't much this doesn't have other than the sunroof. And I like the overhead storage. It has a comical number of sunglasses holders.
Also attached owner's manual.
EDIT: Added window sticker
Pics courtesy of Adam: https://1drv.ms/f/c/9d52bc4a50b7657e/Ig ... 4aKoxrWWoI
Fun facts:
I got my 91 Ranger in early 2008. So it was 17 years old. Had something in the low 70s for mileage. Sold it to Adam in probably 2017. This means I had it for 9 years.
I got my 99 Ram in early 2017, so it was 18 years old. Had maybe 119k? Assuming I sell it soon, I will have had it for 9 years.
This truck is 15 years old and is the highest mileage vehicle I've ever bought. Far from the cheapest, though.
I can probably have this Tundra for as long as I can keep the rust at bay. I will be soaking it in Surface Shield immediately, for a change. There are plenty of trouble spots. Only "serious" issue is some holes in the bed under the cargo cover. I may pull the cargo cover out and douche the bed inside and then also underneath. I could probably do a repair patch but it may also just be fine like that if I can stop further rust. I probably want to brush the loose stuff off. The frame rust is concentrated along the welds primarily but there are some other areas. The brake lines themselves look pretty damn good, though the flare nuts are fairly rusty. This is good because those have significant metal on them. So I'll just douche all of it. Should be fine.
Suspension appears to be all original and rides/handles great. Shocks aren't leaking. Actually, it's not fully stock. It turns out it has a 3" lift on the front and something less (for "leveling") on the rear (maybe 2"?). It's funny that I didn't notice until we said "what is that weird thing on top of the front coil over?" It's not objectionably tall though if I could snap my fingers I'd probably put it back to stock. Not sure I feel like doing that. I can slide under the truck, even at the running board. Not with a lot of clearance but I fit. Neat. I brought ramps but with the lift, they were not necessary.
Cosmetically it is pretty good inside and out. I love the Limited trim level, very pleased with that. Power folding mirrors, cup holders and storage everywhere, factory nav, JBL with a factory sub, heated seats, dual auto climate, trans temp gauge, tow package. I was able to pair my phone for calls and audio - pretty good for a 2010. Power tilt/telescoping steering wheel, even. Aftermarket remote start. Heat and A/C work. Full trip computer. I got 17.1 mpg indicated on the way home, and made it on the fuel that was in it when I bought it. Unusual for a used car purchase, at any price. Has a factory backup camera. Tonneau cover. Full power seats. Power lumbar. Also has some kind of power thigh bolster thing. Being a Limited it also has the 5 pass seating with console shifter. I guess 6 is cool in theory but I've never used it on my Ram. I guess the TRD Sport package adds the 20" wheels. The door sticker says 30 psi front and 33 psi rear which seems incredibly low for something that can tow 10,000 lbs. EDIT: the internet agrees. I may do at least 35/35 for tire wear and slightly better fuel economy.
The steering is excellent. Maybe average for a car but for a truck, it's amazing. It is approximately 1,000,000 times better than any GM truck I've driven, and also my Ram. It is constant ratio which is unusual.
Brakes feel mushy (not really any worse than the Quadrasteer I drove) so I may attempt a bleed.
Engine sounds and runs great. It is very snappy off the line, which is pretty satisfying. While moving you can feel the 5,4xx lbs more but it has plenty of power. Transmission seems to work with no issues but is probably due for a fluid change. I think the engine is due, as well. It seems to leak nothing and he said it doesn't burn any oil, either.
The Double cab is PERFECT. Ian had plenty of room in the back, which is a big difference compared to my Ram. Also, after adjusting the driver's seat, I tested sitting behind myself. Shockingly, there is plenty of room. My knees didn't even touch the seat. So this is TOTALLY adequate and I absolutely cannot imagine wanting to sacrifice a foot of bed for another foot of 2nd row room. Power rear windows, too. Oh and power sliding rear window.
Seems to have LED headlights, fog lights and also has some aux LED lighting behind the grill with a switch hanging below the driver's knee panel...
High beams are OK. Aux lights need to be aimed down. Low beams are "ok" but the aim is poor. Speaking of aim, this has a neat headlight aiming knob. Idea is you level the lights empty and at setting 0. Then you turn the knob up as the load increases. It has a max of 5 which would be a full load and lowest headlight setting. I noticed on the drive home that it needs setting 5 just to stop blinding people so this is all out of whack.
There is a decent list of things he's done.
- Alternator around 2 years ago
- Starter around 1.5 years ago. This is great because they are TERRIBLE. Buried under the pass exhaust manifold.
- So he also did manifolds and gaskets. He thought both sides but certainly at least the pass side. He said he also did the studs.
- Some kind of cheap catback exhaust 6 months ago as the stock muffler was going. This one is pretty DIY but may pass inspection and if so I'll just run it. Adam says high temp paint can help these aluminized systems last. Guess I'll try that.
- He did the transfer case actuator as it was seized (common from disuse). While underneath he also did the front diff actuator. So those are new.
- Has a remote start as I mentioned. He did give me another key with the factory fob, which all works.
- Upgraded the oil filter cap (it uses a cartridge like Mercedes, on the cooler, but is underneath) to metal. Factory is plastic. He gave me the factory one and said there is nothing wrong with it.
- Spark plugs and coil packs 2 months ago or so. No symptoms but thought more of a tuneup item. Unfortunately these are probably no name coils so something to watch out for over time. I don't think any of the parts he used were from Toyota.
-Engine air and cabin air around 2 months ago
- Says he rotates the tires every 6 months with oil (synthetic)
- Probably due for an oil change
- Did the front and rear calipers, and pads, and rotors fairly recently. Wow. Rotors are drilled and slotted, at least the front
- New gas cap from Autozone (original clutch was slipping so it wouldn't seal right)
- Tires are pretty fresh, some kind of Coopers. Date codes all August 2024.
- Driver's side mirror turned brown so he replaced the glass
- Brand new steel driveshaft. Original aluminum shaft just had a bad U-joint. He gave me the old shaft. I should check the carrier bearing.
- All 4 O2 sensors
ALL things considered, I think this was a good buy for $7,500. I don't think the seats are quite as comfortable as the GMT-800 but they are probably better than my Ram. It also probably gets similar fuel economy to my Ram. People say the 5.7 is thirsty but matching my 2WD Ram is impressive. It's probably 17-18 highway and that's about what the rating says. Sounds right. I may try 93 octane and see what that does. Toyota says 87 but engines with higher mileage can benefit from more octane. I should run some Techron though it. I didn't even check the oil before driving home.
VIN decode from Toyota attached. Also attached Carfax; he had it since 2018 and 134k. I may make a Monroney at some point. There isn't much this doesn't have other than the sunroof. And I like the overhead storage. It has a comical number of sunglasses holders.
Also attached owner's manual.
EDIT: Added window sticker
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: General 2010 Toyota Tundra thread
Attached code scan.
I don't know what the "center differential lock" code means. Could have something to do with his replacement actuator as he explained the replacement method. Normally you'd have to open the transfer case to get the shift rods out. Instead he left the originals, opened the new actuator and sort of sandwiched it around the original rods. Maybe something isn't adjusted quite right. In 4 low, maybe this is supposed to lock? I think in 4 high it doesn't lock anyway. I feel like I don't care about this and there are no lights for it. I can look into it I guess.
Tire pressure sensor 4 is dead. Light is on. This may be an inspection issue but I'll just tell them to put a sensor on whatever wheel it is. Wish Toyota would display the tire pressures but no.
And a history code for transponder chip malfunction. He said he replaced the battery in the past and this does some kind of reset to the remote start. As a history code, I don't really care and everything seems to work anyway.
That's it for codes. Not too bad.
Let's make a list of what it needs and what I want to do. I got up early because I couldn't sleep more - need to write down this list and it was killing me.
Handy lookup thingy. https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q?vin=5TFBY5F1XAX149068
I have a USK56L-CRTLKA.
Parts info for my exact chassis/engine combo: https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya- ... lka-918325
For registration and inspection
[X] Need to remove illegal tint. Windshield (I know) and front doors. [ ] TPMS light is on and I think it will fail for this. So I will just have them replace the dead sensor during inspection. This and the tint is probably all it needs to pass.
EDIT: Spare was low but doesn't seem to have a sensor.
[ ] VIN check
As far as maintenance and repairs:
[ ] Full Surface Shield. This will be a project. I may try to drive it on all four ramps to get it way in the air and do it on the flatter part of my driveway. Look at removing the bed liner and soaking the top of the bed floor, as well.
[ ] I think I want to go back to halogens for the headlights and probably fog lights. Aim everything correctly. Aim the aux LEDs. He did throw a new set of fogs in with the truck. He actually gave them to Ian as a gift since I said Ian would be driving this in a few years. Maybe properly mount the aux light switch. There is a switch blank to the right of the column. Actually it uses H11 low beam and 9005 high. I may just replace the low beams so the pattern is correct. The high beam performance was fine and the light scatter doesn't matter on the high beam anyway. Fog should be 9145.
[ ] Headlights need a polish. Probably order Cerakote kit.
[ ] Oil change. It wants xW-20 but I don't trust that. Going with 5W-30 and will probably do Valvoline R&P. He threw in some filters. Takes 8 quarts.
[ ] Would be due for a tire rotation
[ ] It is due for transmission fluid. But the pan has some rusty bolts. The pan bolts are pretty much guaranteed to snap. IF I can gingerly get the drain and leveling plugs out, I'll replace them. I should just do a trans cooler flush with a full 12 quarts or whatever. After some research I will probably run Valvoline Maxlife. The Toyota WS fluid seems kinda lame. Mine will probably be black.
https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya- ... 99-4089699
[ ] Coolant. Need to find out what "Asian" type this takes. It is probably overdue for this.
[ ] Diff service? Probably worth doing.
[ ] Transfer case service? Probably worth doing.
[ ] Maybe power steering just for good measure.
[ ] Brake pedal feels low despite the all new brake parts. So I will try a flush/bleed and see if that helps.
[ ] It needs a trailer brake controller. I'll figure out what I want here. It'd a little odd that it never had one.
[X] lubricate window tracks with silicone spray
Not bad for a used vehicle. The list of things it DOESN'T need is pretty solid.
Did a quick fitment check with my recycling tote. It barely fits under the tonneau but it does clear, as long as the stack of stuff isn't much higher than the tote. I can also fold back however many sections of the cover and put my garbage can(s) in the back, and shove the recycling a little further up under the cover. This may prove sufficient, mitigating the need to run out and find a cap. I do think water leakage into the bed (and then the lack of airflow and sunlight) may have prematurely rusted out some of the bed floor.
I don't know what the "center differential lock" code means. Could have something to do with his replacement actuator as he explained the replacement method. Normally you'd have to open the transfer case to get the shift rods out. Instead he left the originals, opened the new actuator and sort of sandwiched it around the original rods. Maybe something isn't adjusted quite right. In 4 low, maybe this is supposed to lock? I think in 4 high it doesn't lock anyway. I feel like I don't care about this and there are no lights for it. I can look into it I guess.
Tire pressure sensor 4 is dead. Light is on. This may be an inspection issue but I'll just tell them to put a sensor on whatever wheel it is. Wish Toyota would display the tire pressures but no.
And a history code for transponder chip malfunction. He said he replaced the battery in the past and this does some kind of reset to the remote start. As a history code, I don't really care and everything seems to work anyway.
That's it for codes. Not too bad.
Let's make a list of what it needs and what I want to do. I got up early because I couldn't sleep more - need to write down this list and it was killing me.
Handy lookup thingy. https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q?vin=5TFBY5F1XAX149068
I have a USK56L-CRTLKA.
Parts info for my exact chassis/engine combo: https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya- ... lka-918325
For registration and inspection
[X] Need to remove illegal tint. Windshield (I know) and front doors. [ ] TPMS light is on and I think it will fail for this. So I will just have them replace the dead sensor during inspection. This and the tint is probably all it needs to pass.
EDIT: Spare was low but doesn't seem to have a sensor.
[ ] VIN check
As far as maintenance and repairs:
[ ] Full Surface Shield. This will be a project. I may try to drive it on all four ramps to get it way in the air and do it on the flatter part of my driveway. Look at removing the bed liner and soaking the top of the bed floor, as well.
[ ] I think I want to go back to halogens for the headlights and probably fog lights. Aim everything correctly. Aim the aux LEDs. He did throw a new set of fogs in with the truck. He actually gave them to Ian as a gift since I said Ian would be driving this in a few years. Maybe properly mount the aux light switch. There is a switch blank to the right of the column. Actually it uses H11 low beam and 9005 high. I may just replace the low beams so the pattern is correct. The high beam performance was fine and the light scatter doesn't matter on the high beam anyway. Fog should be 9145.
[ ] Headlights need a polish. Probably order Cerakote kit.
[ ] Oil change. It wants xW-20 but I don't trust that. Going with 5W-30 and will probably do Valvoline R&P. He threw in some filters. Takes 8 quarts.
[ ] Would be due for a tire rotation
[ ] It is due for transmission fluid. But the pan has some rusty bolts. The pan bolts are pretty much guaranteed to snap. IF I can gingerly get the drain and leveling plugs out, I'll replace them. I should just do a trans cooler flush with a full 12 quarts or whatever. After some research I will probably run Valvoline Maxlife. The Toyota WS fluid seems kinda lame. Mine will probably be black.
https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya- ... 99-4089699
[ ] Coolant. Need to find out what "Asian" type this takes. It is probably overdue for this.
[ ] Diff service? Probably worth doing.
[ ] Transfer case service? Probably worth doing.
[ ] Maybe power steering just for good measure.
[ ] Brake pedal feels low despite the all new brake parts. So I will try a flush/bleed and see if that helps.
[ ] It needs a trailer brake controller. I'll figure out what I want here. It'd a little odd that it never had one.
[X] lubricate window tracks with silicone spray
Not bad for a used vehicle. The list of things it DOESN'T need is pretty solid.
Did a quick fitment check with my recycling tote. It barely fits under the tonneau but it does clear, as long as the stack of stuff isn't much higher than the tote. I can also fold back however many sections of the cover and put my garbage can(s) in the back, and shove the recycling a little further up under the cover. This may prove sufficient, mitigating the need to run out and find a cap. I do think water leakage into the bed (and then the lack of airflow and sunlight) may have prematurely rusted out some of the bed floor.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: General 2010 Toyota Tundra thread
Here are a few just to have in the thread.kevm14 wrote: Sun Nov 23, 2025 4:56 am Pics courtesy of Adam: https://1drv.ms/f/c/9d52bc4a50b7657e/Ig ... 4aKoxrWWoI
Front lift blocks You can make out the leaf spring lift blocks. They appear to be somewhat shorter than the front but it is common to "level" trucks. I wish it was just stock but probably not worth the effort. Drives pretty damn good. Wheels in decent shape I like the color. I've never had a 4WD truck so I guess that's why I didn't notice the lift. You can definitely tell, though. One of the aux lights behind the grill. Engine bay. It was fairly clean. Headlights getting a bit cloudy. Cerakote will fix this. The cab. It was in pretty good shape. DIY catback. If it passes I'll probably leave it alone. Except maybe high temp paint? Driver's side plugs/coils pretty accessible. Not so much on the pass side. The only real cosmetic issue. Pass side. Shot of the new exhaust and new driveshaft. Ok I lied. The other cosmetic issue. The bottom off the tailgate is rusting like my Ram. I'll soak that area, too. Probably the worst rust spot on the whole truck. It doesn't show the hole in the bed too well but it's pretty large. Probably 8-10" diameter. The driver's side is also working on it but is a smaller hole. He said something about the tonneau drains caused this but I don't know. These areas would be trashed on any GM in this price range. He asked if I wanted this removed. I respectfully said yes please. Turd Sport
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.