Repair-It

Inching closer to wanting to undo my front diff drop (only the front mounts are and can be dropped).

https://www.tundras.com/threads/when-is ... 593/page-2
https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya- ... l-17846232

It is actually through bolted, possibly through the steering rack. I want to see if there is A) clearance above the nut (on top) for the bolt to protrude the additional inch or whatever and B) if the longer bolts in there are threaded enough toward the head to still work.

I also need to see if I have the washers still.

Second link provides all the info for stock hardware if needed.

Pros:
- additional ground clearance
- looks cleaner/microscopically better aero
- technically the level of the diff is a touch lower since the fill plug is toward the front which is angled down a bit with the diff drop and this would be corrected - it slightly angles fluid away from the pinion
- corrects pinion angle to factory (for driveshaft)
- factory axles *should* be ok with the extra angle from the front suspension lift according to, well, most people

Cons:
- it's been on there all this time....
- puts slightly more strain on the very old CV boots

Took a look underneath. The bolts go through the subframe. They don't go through the steering rack. However, the longer bolts that it has are probably too long to run without the lift spacers because the bolt will likely contact the steering rack. So I ordered two stock bolts and two nuts from the dealer. Probably cost me an extra ~$14 versus online (plus the site I found may not have even charged tax so add another 7%). So maybe next time I'll just order online since they didn't stock them anyway.

Had a little discussion with the parts guy and it wasn't particularly helpful. I told him what I was doing and he announced that I need the diff drop for my lifted front suspension. He currently owns a 3rd gen Tundra (not the same situation) and used to own a Silverado with a 4" lift that apparently needed a diff drop. Which is not relevant to my situation.

Removed the diff drop using factory hardware (that I purchased) which was necessary. With the stock hardware back I can't even get a finger between the top of the bolt and the steering rack.

It was very tight to get a wrench on the nut on the driver's side. Must have taken me an hour to figure it out. Pretty terrible. Also my mid torque didn't have enough to break it loose so I also had to use a breaker bar. All this for two bolts and two nuts.

But it is back to stock and I jacked the front wheels off the ground to check for axle bind. No bind!

Topped off the front diff and I'm glad I did. It took like 300 mL which seems like a lot.