Re: General STS thread
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 5:50 am
Yeah, and Adam likes right angle needle nose. None of that would have worked for how far down this hose was. If there was a dedicated tool maybe that would have been good.
So more battery observations. I've had Ed and Adam tell me they'd just replace the battery and not screw around. A group 101 is like $200 for this car, less from certain sources. So I want to milk it if it's not totally and obviously about to render the car inoperable.
I took it off the Battery Tender last night when I got home and started it. Cranked fine obviously. But I noticed it was charging at a fairly low voltage, like 13.0 or something. I got out my DVM and that agreed perfectly with the dash readout. Sometimes it would climb up to 13.4 but sometimes not. RPM seemed to make no difference. I also loaded it up with headlights, high beams, defroster and even hit the window switches and the voltage did not change even from all that, so I figure the alternator is working properly. But it also wasn't charging at what I would have expected.
I had a theory that in the morning it would charge normally and I was right. It was 14.2V this morning. But by the time I got to work, it was down to 13.3 or something. What's going on? My best theory is that this is normal behavior. This car has the same fancy inductive current sensing as the SRX which monitors battery draw and regulates alternator voltage accordingly. If it senses the battery is drained, it will elevate the voltage to charge it. I think after sitting on the battery tender it made the system think everything was charged (which it was). Only after an overnight sit and crank did it say, oh, I better charge this. And before getting to work, perhaps it calculated that the battery was topped off and backed off the voltage to a maintenance charge level. This is my best theory for what is going on.
I will continue to milk this battery. Maybe I should throw my sweet jumper cables in the car just in case. It wouldn't be a bad idea to actually load test the battery to know for sure what its capacity is, but I don't have one. Harbor Freight?
So more battery observations. I've had Ed and Adam tell me they'd just replace the battery and not screw around. A group 101 is like $200 for this car, less from certain sources. So I want to milk it if it's not totally and obviously about to render the car inoperable.
I took it off the Battery Tender last night when I got home and started it. Cranked fine obviously. But I noticed it was charging at a fairly low voltage, like 13.0 or something. I got out my DVM and that agreed perfectly with the dash readout. Sometimes it would climb up to 13.4 but sometimes not. RPM seemed to make no difference. I also loaded it up with headlights, high beams, defroster and even hit the window switches and the voltage did not change even from all that, so I figure the alternator is working properly. But it also wasn't charging at what I would have expected.
I had a theory that in the morning it would charge normally and I was right. It was 14.2V this morning. But by the time I got to work, it was down to 13.3 or something. What's going on? My best theory is that this is normal behavior. This car has the same fancy inductive current sensing as the SRX which monitors battery draw and regulates alternator voltage accordingly. If it senses the battery is drained, it will elevate the voltage to charge it. I think after sitting on the battery tender it made the system think everything was charged (which it was). Only after an overnight sit and crank did it say, oh, I better charge this. And before getting to work, perhaps it calculated that the battery was topped off and backed off the voltage to a maintenance charge level. This is my best theory for what is going on.
I will continue to milk this battery. Maybe I should throw my sweet jumper cables in the car just in case. It wouldn't be a bad idea to actually load test the battery to know for sure what its capacity is, but I don't have one. Harbor Freight?