Repair-It

Paint was definitely still soft but I put it back together anyway.

I had a hell of a time figuring out what to do with the front brackets and linkages. I got lucky and found a pic I took of when I originally discovered the crack and that did help. Back on the tractor. This machine does a beautiful job.

Random observation that I meant to post earlier:
Whether it is due to the more industrial nature of my engine, or just the large displacement, I have noticed that even at a complete idle setting on the throttle lever, it is still a fully governed speed. What do I mean by this? That the governor will seek to maintain that idle rpm. In my experience with small engines, the idle setting of the throttle tends to be a minimum set throttle opening, with very little or no governor interaction. But on this, even at idle, it will try to maintain that rpm, any rpm, that you set it at. You can engage the blades at a complete idle, jam the hydrostatic lever full forward or whatever and it will maintain its idle. I think that's cool.

After sharpening the blades I inflated the tires. They weren't that far off but I like them proper (as with my cars) because it changes the way it steers. And the rear tires need to be right for max traction. I do 15 in the front and 8 in the back.

But after all that I decided I had gotten sick of this steering issue. I'm not sure I mentioned it before but turning to the right has gotten quite difficult. Sometimes returning to center after is also difficult which can be a minor inconvenience or a major issue depending on whether I am mowing close to something.

I looked at all the steering linkage and stuff and everything seemed to be free. That leaves the steering rack itself. Of course it is buried under the fuel tank. So I removed the fuel tank. Which requires pulling the steering wheel.

To remove the wheel, there is just a cross bolt and nut. Remove that, pull the bolt, and the wheel just slides off the shaft. It is not splined. It is just plastic.

4 bolts on the tank - two in front, two on the operators panel. Pull throttle handle off the lever. Tank basically carefully lifts up and over the steering shaft. Didn't take too long to find the issue. The pinion is actually under one of those plates and I could touch the teeth with my finger. All this junk was actually binding up the steering rack! It's either mouse stuff, or the result of me leaf blowing out the area under the seat after I mow, which may have actually blown some of that crap up into this area. I guess I blame both.

I cleaned it all out, used my compressed air to free up the rack pinion, and then I squirted a bunch of my automotive grease into the pinion. The result? I am thrilled to report that the steering works great, FINALLY. It really makes a difference and I feel stupid for struggling with it as long as I have and just sort of man handling the steering wheel on right turns.

All this crap meant I ended up mowing in the dark. Never did that before. Had to empty three times due to more leaves. It was very dry but still you can see how well the turbo blower works. It just shoves all the leaves into the bagger even as the leaves fill up all the crevices.

I guess it is more of a super charger than a turbo...

Ha. Yeah it is belt driven. Maybe I should install a tiny turbo on this engine.

Decided to remove battery for winter after I did my final leaves yesterday. Charged and put on shelf. I'll charge it again in the spring before putting it back in the tractor.

Putting snow thrower stuff here so I have it.

So I have commented that my 26" walk behind thrower (7.75 hp, Briggs, runs great) is kind of inadequate for the size of driveway I have, mainly the very large section (that I enlarged) in front of the garage area. The challenges are several, unfortunately, ranging from not enough throw to get the snow clear of the driveway, then sometimes not enough power to throw the existing snow plus the thrown snow again. The other issues are just standard walk behind issues like occasional having to give it some muscle to go due to traction, depending on the surface.

Problem with this plan is, I know there are also challenges with the tractor setup. For example:
- 12.5 hp gives me 2.88 inches per HP. My walk behind does 3.35 so this seems better, though the hydro trans definitely takes some power. Bill's setup, though, has a solid 2 inches per HP which means his setup has 44% more power than mine. I would surely be throwing and rethrowing snow more than once and probably more than twice, adding to the concern.
- I park my tractor under my deck and that's pretty much where it is going to stay. To get to the driveway I have to make a hard right turn and drive somewhat precariously next to the STS and the ground is not flat, either. Turning is only possible with the thrower lifted and that is only possible if the area is already clear. So just to get it out I'd have a little project clearing an area of the back yard just to maneuver.
- Everything on my tractor is manual. Bill enjoys: power steering, hydraulic lift, electric chute turning. I have none of that which significantly reduces the convenience factor imo.
- I need to ensure I get wheel weights, possibly hitch weights, and those rubber "chain" things. My tractor is under 500 lbs and has no locking diff, either.

So to go out and pick up one of these throwers (none of which will be exactly local) I'd really be rolling the dice as far as how well it really works for me (and the tractor). Meaning my only real recourse is to turn around and sell it, and when they ask why (knowing they could be in the same boat as I was), make up anything other than "this doesn't work for me." I'm also concerned that I will have some trouble reselling.


I don't know which of these I have but I must have one of them and they are the same anyway.
https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplic ... 5hp-hydro/
https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplic ... 5hp-hydro/

Attachments for this model:
Simplicity 1690556 - 36" & 42" Snowthrower Hitch
Simplicity 1690563 - Simplicity Engine Driven Vacuum Collector
Simplicity 1690547 - Snowthrower, Single Stage, 36"
Simplicity 1691260 - Simplicity Turbo Collector Blower
Simplicity 1690821 - Simplicity Rear Grass Catcher for 36" Mower
Simplicity 1690226 - Simplicity Vacuum Collector
Simplicity 1690226 - Vacuum Collector
Simplicity 1690819 - Dethatcher, Lawn 35"
Simplicity 1690440 - 42" Snow Plow & Dozer Blade
Simplicity 1690085 - Simplicity 42" Snow Plow & Dozer Blade
Simplicity 1690548 - Simplicity 42" Single Stage Snowthrower Attachment
Simplicity 1690085 - 42" Snow Plow & Dozer Blade
Simplicity 1690708 - Simplicity 42" Deck
Simplicity 1690709 - Simplicity 48" Deck
Simplicity 1690838 - Simplicity 36" Deck
Simplicity 1691260 - Turbo Collector Blower
Simplicity 1690839 - Simplicity 36" Rotary Mower Deck
Simplicity 1690708 - 42" Mower Deck
Simplicity 1690547 - Simplicity 36" Single Stage Snowthrower Attachment
Simplicity 1690821 - Rear Grass Catcher (36" Mower)
Simplicity 1690563 - Engine Driven Vacuum Collector
Simplicity 1690440 - Simplicity 42" Snow Plow & Dozer Blade
Simplicity 1690838 - 36" Mower Deck
Simplicity 1690556 - Simplicity 36" & 42" Snowthrower Hitch
Simplicity 1690839 - 36" Rotary Mower
Simplicity 1690709 - 48" Mower Deck
Simplicity 1690548 - Snowthrower, Single Stage, 42"

This is a really handy website.

Notably, it looks like these two throwers are compatible:
Simplicity 1690547 - Snowthrower, Single Stage, 36"
Simplicity 1690548 - Snowthrower, Single Stage, 42"

I'm going to say right now that there is no way my machine could pull the 42" with any significant snow fall unless I snap my fingers and upgrade to the 16 hp version of my engine. So it will have to be the 36".

I am in the process of finding out which P/N this is:
https://longisland.craigslist.org/for/d ... 20082.html

For sale is a 36 inch snow blower attachment for a Simplicity lawn tractor. It comes with the hitch and pulley and belt and owners manual and weights that go on rear wheels for traction and also the lift rod. It is in perfect working condition with not much use on it. It is complete and ready to be mounted on your tractor. Will throw in a plow blade that needs to be modified to be mounted as it was not from simplicity and never was used on my machine. PIKC UP ONLY
Please call with your questions. As is, no returns. Buy with confidence, no games here.
Victor show contact info

Just some comments:

Bill's setup, though, has a solid 2 inches per HP which means his setup has 44% more power than mine. I would surely be throwing and rethrowing snow more than once and probably more than twice, adding to the concern.

Yes, but, my machine is much heavier, which subtracts something from that HP to thrower width.

- I park my tractor under my deck and that's pretty much where it is going to stay. To get to the driveway I have to make a hard right turn and drive somewhat precariously next to the STS and the ground is not flat, either. Turning is only possible with the thrower lifted and that is only possible if the area is already clear. So just to get it out I'd have a little project clearing an area of the back yard just to maneuver.

Yes. That spot would be a problem. Turning is virtually impossible in almost any amount of snow. I have to do quite a bit of clearing before turning is possible. This and that with the rear weights and front mounted thrower make my rig pretty long making turning and maneuvering... complicated.

- Everything on my tractor is manual. Bill enjoys: power steering, hydraulic lift, electric chute turning. I have none of that which significantly reduces the convenience factor imo.

Not sure about this. That is pretty strong of a statement. You really need to see for yourself, with your machine setup. The plow I have on the Scotts is manual. The up and down is definitely a little of a chore, but the thrower makes it easier as stuff isn't spilling out the sides nearly as much causing as many passes as with the plow (so less passes and up and down with the thrower). Basically, if you are doing long straight passes, the manual up and down with a thrower vice the plow is much less of a big deal. Also, I do not have power steering on the Scotts and it is not an issue at all. Turns out, wheels turn pretty easy in a thin coating of snow and frozen driveway (I leave my thrower scraper a decent amount above the driveway via the skid shoes as to not actually scrape the driveway, which leave about 1/4 - 1/2 inch of snow on the driveway when cleared). The electric chute is nice, but again if you are doing long passes pointed in the same direction, not really a big deal.

- I need to ensure I get wheel weights, possibly hitch weights, and those rubber "chain" things. My tractor is under 500 lbs. and has no locking diff, either.

Yes. You need weights and traction, be it chains or the "rubber things", which I recommend over chains.

In the last bad storm, I didn't engage the locking diff once. I didn't need it. (Also, I think I may have an engagement issue with that that I need to look at. I think the cable sticks.) I don't have any weights on the Scotts, and it gets stuck if I need to reverse going uphill. Luckily I can pick that thing up if I need to. I wouldn't mind wheel weights for the Simplicity. I only have 200 lbs on the back of that. Most used throwers come with weights and chains. The throwers new are around $1,200, plus more money for weights and I don't recommend chains on a new driveway, they definitly scratch/scrape it. The rubber ones are very good and don't ruin the driveway.

bill25 wrote: Yes, but, my machine is much heavier, which subtracts something from that HP to thrower width.

That is true, though on flat ground probably negligible. Most of the energy is on pushing the thrower into the snow which would already be accounted for in the HP/width ratio. Or that's my theory anyway.

Yes. That spot would be a problem. Turning is virtually impossible in almost any amount of snow. I have to do quite a bit of clearing before turning is possible. This and that with the rear weights and front mounted thrower make my rig pretty long making turning and maneuvering... complicated.

I think my biggest issue is the non-flatness of that area. If it was a flat pad it would just be a few extra minutes. So my choices may be between accidently digging into my yard or not being able to clear down enough to maneuver. Sounds great. Or I clear it out with the walk behind which turns snow removal into a bit of a circus though the plan was always to keep that machine and probably use it in certain areas or light snow I guess. I guess the point is I can probably achieve a net time savings in heavier snow but there is an overhead associated with adding a lot of equipment obviously.

(I leave my thrower scraper a decent amount above the driveway via the skid shoes as to not actually scrape the driveway, which leave about 1/4 - 1/2 inch of snow on the driveway when cleared)

I don't think I could even do that with the manual setup. I think it's either up or down (floating).

The electric chute is nice, but again if you are doing long passes pointed in the same direction, not really a big deal.

That's the thing. If most of my driveway was long passes in the same direction, then I think my walk behind would be fine. When I get to the long narrow section of my driveway, it's really quite easy and if it was twice as long it would be alright. It's that huge section in the middle that sucks and I can see going back and forth on that may be quite annoying.

(Also, I think I may have an engagement issue with that that I need to look at. I think the cable sticks.)

You think it stays engaged after you pull your foot off the lever? Or...it doesn't go down right because the cable binds?

kevm14 wrote:I think my biggest issue is the non-flatness of that area. If it was a flat pad it would just be a few extra minutes. So my choices may be between accidently digging into my yard or not being able to clear down enough to maneuver. Sounds great. Or I clear it out with the walk behind which turns snow removal into a bit of a circus though the plan was always to keep that machine and probably use it in certain areas or light snow I guess. I guess the point is I can probably achieve a net time savings in heavier snow but there is an overhead associated with adding a lot of equipment obviously.

I thought about this more. The answer is the walk behind snow blower. Not just because of everything I mentioned but what I mentioned later in the reply - I can't really float my thrower without like partially yanking back on the stick or something. At least, I am currently assuming that there are no detent/lock settings. I think it is just up or down. My hydro trans uses a hand lever that's between my legs and I need one hand for the steering wheel. A lot of compromise with my setup. Just going back and forth is going to require 3 hands, which means more stopping while I put the thrower up before backing, if I need to. Anyway, I can't set the thrower like 1 inch high and do my grass. So realistically, I'll have to clear out an area with the walk behind, get the tractor out, drive to the front, and work on the driveway. That also allows time with the walk behind to make a little area in the driveway in which to maneuver the tractor when I bring it around, so this makes sense.

On the power steering thing, I bet if I just added a few psi to the front tires, that would also be appropriate given the added load. Unless I add rear ballast on the hitch.