Repair-It

Adding to the to-do-list to include installing a trailer brake controller. Ordered another Redarc Towpro Liberty since I've been very happy with it on the box truck.

Finally did some investigative looking at the Jeep today because I had a tire pressure light (I changed the "bad" sensor - hopefully that's the end of it) and I wanted to see if some of the oil pan bolts responded to tightening before I dove into pan replacement. I also Fluid Filmed the whole undercarriage.

Turns out I need rear differential mounts - hoping that completely fixes my vibration-on-accel.

WK2 Rear Differential Mount replacement:https://youtu.be/yCJVAjmdxCM?si=mNYTlFEXLI_p34fd

WK2 5.7L hemi oil pan replacement:https://youtu.be/sxGvJXBGJP8?si=RF3MxzvSGrjk9lRq

I'm glad I watched the oil pan video - I wouldn't have remembered to order the oil pickup o-ring, which unfortunately he never mentions but I saw it and knew I should order one.

Both are easier jobs than I thought - I likely would've been tackling subframe removal.

I wonder if I'll have a socket that's about the right diameter or if I'll have luck knocking out the old mounts with an air hammer.  At worst I can pick up a harbor freight ball joint press even if it's just to get the lots-of-different-diameter pusher pipes.

Rockauto had Mopar mounts. Total for pan gasket/o-ring and all three mounts was $74 with shipping.

I wonder if this would work to draw out the old - might still need to hammer in the new ones...

https://www.harborfreight.com/front-whe ... 63728.html

Don't forget about air hammering, but not sure if you have kept up with the times on that (I own zero). There are some really powerful ones now. And they vary widely in capacity.

I mentioned air hammer three posts up - probably not for install though.

I wonder if this kit would be better:
https://www.vevor.com/bearing-puller-c_ ... 0570481209

Wound up ordering this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BHS ... UTF8&psc=1

and this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7 ... UTF8&psc=1

Figured they were good shop "stock". Hopefully some combination of diameters between the two help with mount replacement.

You have to watch those presses. Material/machining quality makes or breaks their usefulness.

The press was fine, wound up using a whole combination of stuff to beat the old ones out and push the new ones in. Used both kits and an old socket. Both rear mounts went in fine. The front mount was a bear to get out, finally tore it up driving it out with an air hammer, only minor scoring from the hammer on the aluminum housing bore. New one went in with a slightly bent edge because I couldn't get a straight shot on it and didn't have a great "driver" fit.

Test drive seems to show 95% correction of driveline vibration. I think I can barely feel whatever the driving forces that were hitting a resonance for the whole diff, but they're not setting stuff off now. So I guess I'll call it fixed I think.

More like 50% correction. I'll have to investigate drivetrain/mid-drive-shaft carrier bearing support for wear.