I meant my skids are set to keep the blade around 1/4 inch off the ground. This doesn't work in the grass.I don't think I could even do that with the manual setup. I think it's either up or down (floating).
Garden tractor acquisition
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Looked through the list of tractors for the 36 and the 42, the ones that fit mine. Lowest power machine: 8 hp. Highest power: 19. Now 8 is just ridiculous. 8 hp is typical for a 22-26" walk behind. No idea why that would be a good idea on a 36" (or 42") tractor.
Anyway, my 12.5 is on the lower end of that range hence why I am definitely looking at the 36 vice the 42.
Anyway, my 12.5 is on the lower end of that range hence why I am definitely looking at the 36 vice the 42.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
He FINALLY got back to me, 3 days later.kevm14 wrote:I am in the process of finding out which P/N this is:
https://longisland.craigslist.org/for/d ... 20082.html
For sale is a 36 inch snow blower attachment for a Simplicity lawn tractor. It comes with the hitch and pulley and belt and owners manual and weights that go on rear wheels for traction and also the lift rod. It is in perfect working condition with not much use on it. It is complete and ready to be mounted on your tractor. Will throw in a plow blade that needs to be modified to be mounted as it was not from simplicity and never was used on my machine. PIKC UP ONLY
Please call with your questions. As is, no returns. Buy with confidence, no games here.
Victor show contact info
And then 1 minute later:Keven, Had unit sold but never came for it. I am leaving on vacation
At least he spelled my name right the second time.Kevin, Unit was sold but never picked up, leaving town now.
Will help you in the future if you are still interested. Victor
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
I was thinking more about torque and how that plays into power.
It has been said that my 12.5 hp twin has more torque than other 12.5 hp engines. This is true - it has large displacement. What this means is it maintains closer to its horsepower peak as it bogs down (as a result of increased torque). HP still drops as it bogs down, but more slowly than a smaller displacement engine.
So in a scenario where I am blowing snow, if the snow bogs the machine down, as the auger RPM drops, the engine RPM drops. However, the decreased auger RPM also results in a decreased HP draw because it is spinning more slowly (doing less work). Depending on the engine's torque characteristics, it may decrease a few hundred RPM and hold, since the HP demand by the blower and HP provided by the engine are again in equilibrium (engine now at WOT via governor). A smaller engine will decrease RPM more and possibly faster than the HP demand is dropping which would then lead to a stall.
That's my explanation of what torque does in a small engine application (though it applies to any engine). Exact same thing with anything that takes power to turn (like a mower deck for example).
In summary, the peak HP, assuming the engine is at that RPM, determines how much work can be done at that RPM. Always. Torque means nothing here. HP dictates how much work can be done before RPM drops. So if you want the engine to sit at peak power rpm (3400-3600) under load, you need more HP, period. If, however, you can stand to lose some RPM and some HP but still do meaningful work (at a decreased HP output) more torque can make this a more usable situation.
There is some translation here with turbo diesel engines and towing but that's for another time.
It has been said that my 12.5 hp twin has more torque than other 12.5 hp engines. This is true - it has large displacement. What this means is it maintains closer to its horsepower peak as it bogs down (as a result of increased torque). HP still drops as it bogs down, but more slowly than a smaller displacement engine.
So in a scenario where I am blowing snow, if the snow bogs the machine down, as the auger RPM drops, the engine RPM drops. However, the decreased auger RPM also results in a decreased HP draw because it is spinning more slowly (doing less work). Depending on the engine's torque characteristics, it may decrease a few hundred RPM and hold, since the HP demand by the blower and HP provided by the engine are again in equilibrium (engine now at WOT via governor). A smaller engine will decrease RPM more and possibly faster than the HP demand is dropping which would then lead to a stall.
That's my explanation of what torque does in a small engine application (though it applies to any engine). Exact same thing with anything that takes power to turn (like a mower deck for example).
In summary, the peak HP, assuming the engine is at that RPM, determines how much work can be done at that RPM. Always. Torque means nothing here. HP dictates how much work can be done before RPM drops. So if you want the engine to sit at peak power rpm (3400-3600) under load, you need more HP, period. If, however, you can stand to lose some RPM and some HP but still do meaningful work (at a decreased HP output) more torque can make this a more usable situation.
There is some translation here with turbo diesel engines and towing but that's for another time.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Here's what I came up with.
Assumptions:
- I graphed snow blower HP required in 15" @ 3.5 mph for a given unit (let's say a 36" unit). I assumed it required 14 hp @ 3600 rpm and was linear.
- Engine 1 is my engine with 12.5 hp @ 3600 rpm, based on my complete swag at what the HP and torque curve might look like.
- Engine 2 is a more modern single cylinder OHV engine with approx 65% of the displacement of mine, putting out the same 12.5 hp @ 3600 rpm.
Right away I accomplished what I wanted to show. Look at this graph. So say we have our 36" thrower and are moving forward in 15" of snow at 3.5 mph, full swath. As I said above, I guessed this would require 14 hp @ 3600 rpm. Neither engine has that. So follow the graph down to see what happens.
With engine 1, as the engine drops in rpm and power, the blower requirements also drop, until they match in the range of 2400-2900 rpm. So the engine will bog down under WOT (and the speed will also drop since it is all related), and things will continue at this lower speed and capability. You won't have to change the swath amount or your speed setting (as it will slow down with the engine).
However, with engine 2, there is no overlap at all. If you head into that snow at 3.5 mph, the engine is going to stall. There is no way around it.
Of course if you head into the snow at a lesser speed or take a smaller cut, to allow the thrower to require exactly 12.5 hp @ 3600 rpm, BOTH engines will perform EXACTLY the same. However, again, as you over load both engines and they bog down, the one with more torque will handle it better, but is still suboptimal. More torque just translates to more lower RPM HP and this is just the way it works in car and truck engines.
Theoretically you want to utilize all attachments while maintaining the engine at or very near peak HP rpm, to get the most work done. Which is why HP is important. But lower rpm HP is also important in real world conditions where it may be difficult to maintain the load at exactly what you want; the engine will be more tolerant of variations.
Assumptions:
- I graphed snow blower HP required in 15" @ 3.5 mph for a given unit (let's say a 36" unit). I assumed it required 14 hp @ 3600 rpm and was linear.
- Engine 1 is my engine with 12.5 hp @ 3600 rpm, based on my complete swag at what the HP and torque curve might look like.
- Engine 2 is a more modern single cylinder OHV engine with approx 65% of the displacement of mine, putting out the same 12.5 hp @ 3600 rpm.
Right away I accomplished what I wanted to show. Look at this graph. So say we have our 36" thrower and are moving forward in 15" of snow at 3.5 mph, full swath. As I said above, I guessed this would require 14 hp @ 3600 rpm. Neither engine has that. So follow the graph down to see what happens.
With engine 1, as the engine drops in rpm and power, the blower requirements also drop, until they match in the range of 2400-2900 rpm. So the engine will bog down under WOT (and the speed will also drop since it is all related), and things will continue at this lower speed and capability. You won't have to change the swath amount or your speed setting (as it will slow down with the engine).
However, with engine 2, there is no overlap at all. If you head into that snow at 3.5 mph, the engine is going to stall. There is no way around it.
Of course if you head into the snow at a lesser speed or take a smaller cut, to allow the thrower to require exactly 12.5 hp @ 3600 rpm, BOTH engines will perform EXACTLY the same. However, again, as you over load both engines and they bog down, the one with more torque will handle it better, but is still suboptimal. More torque just translates to more lower RPM HP and this is just the way it works in car and truck engines.
Theoretically you want to utilize all attachments while maintaining the engine at or very near peak HP rpm, to get the most work done. Which is why HP is important. But lower rpm HP is also important in real world conditions where it may be difficult to maintain the load at exactly what you want; the engine will be more tolerant of variations.
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Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Guy got back to me.kevm14 wrote: Simplicity 1690547 - Snowthrower, Single Stage, 36"
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Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Finally got a hold of the manual.
Looks like there are only two items that could be missing, if what he has is really complete.
Looks like there are only two items that could be missing, if what he has is really complete.
Here's what I wrote:I will be back in N.Y. around the end of April. I will give it all to you for 250.00 if you will wait that long. I winter in Florida now and so don't need it anymore. Just let me know and I will get in touch with you when I return. Thanks for your understanding. Victor
I did as much as I could with research - he may have the right hitch bracket depending on the machine this came off of but I think I have to track down a long lift lever, unless he also has that.I have a 5212.5H and I am just trying to figure out everything that I need. I am looking through the manual. I think I need the large lift handle (with the button on the end) and I saw a lift “rod” mentioned but does it include the long handle? That seems to be the only thing missing from your ad. My machine has a short handle for lifting my deck.
The only other detail I saw was the hitch mounting bracket. There is a short one and a long one. It sounds like the long one is meant for the hydrostatic tractors, which is what I have.
There are a lot of pieces to this installation and I just don't want to get stuck trying to track some random part down so I am trying to buy everything I need in one place. Hope that makes sense.
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Re: Garden tractor acquisition
That sounds good. Is that long lift lever for sale anywhere? Maybe that could be shipped since it probably doesn't weigh a lot. That is a good price. Realistically, you will get it after this season, and have at least 6 months to sort it out and acquire/fabricate missing things.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Item B in the figure is the long lift lever, with lock.
I sent this and asked if he had this. Haven't found a part number yet to search on. I do have a part number on the short one that my machine already has and it is not available.
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Re: Garden tractor acquisition
This thread does not help but some folks were comparing the 5212.5 to some larger tractors.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/16-simpli ... 2-5-a.html
One guy chimed in and said his Briggs opposed twin had 2,200 hours on it.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/16-simpli ... 2-5-a.html
One guy chimed in and said his Briggs opposed twin had 2,200 hours on it.