Repair-It

A few shots of interest. I also updated all four door modules to the latest. There is some known issue where the power window motor can get stuck in a non-functional state though I never had any issues. Also turns out my transmission control module has the latest software. I didn't check anything else because that was a lot of stuff.

The 10A battery charger seemed to do the job, as battery voltage hovered mostly in the 11.5-11.9V range during operations. Good enough.

I was playing with my new battery charger to see how it does holding up system voltage during ignition on scanning sessions. I am pretty happy with it. It is a 20A max but also intelligent and does all kinds of stuff.

Here is some health data from my S550.

Mixture adaptations look really healthy.

Surprisingly, cam adaptations look really good. In fact, they were so good that I was doubting the engine off result so I started the engine just to make sure those weren't some engine off value and I am happy to report that this data is real. At this time I have zero timing system health concerns. For a 100k "earlier" M273 this is as good as it gets.

I included an O2 voltage plot because I thought it was cool. This was engine off.

Finally I am showing all ECU coding parameters. Items of potential interest:
- vehicle speed regulation. Meaning, speed limiter disabled? Well, I have that OE Tune on it and I have seen almost 140 mph with a 130 mph limiter, so I guess this flag basically controls whether it even cares about the limit. That would explain my results.
- Speed increase air conditioning. I think this might raise engine RPM during A/C use which is interesting. it's off here.
- Load jerk damping. This is one of the settings that I had BenzNinja code to off, which significantly improved throttle response especially in certain scenarios.
- Torque limit stuff. Set to inactive. See previous comment.
- Torque increase. I think this is set to factory but I forgot what it might do.
- Accelerator pedal curve. This is set to factory and I think this means characteristic #1.
- Low fuel grade. Says yes. I don't know what this means. I will have to investigate. I could find NOTHING in the ECU regarding learned knock retard stuff but this suggests it thinks I am running insufficient octane fuel. I have heard knock on certain occasions with this OE Tune so maybe that is related.

More WIS files. HVAC-related in this case.

Exciting milestone.

100k report: Everything is good. I believe I have put about 21k on this car in a little over 2 years and my assessment is it has been outstanding in terms of serving the need. The comfort, performance and reliability has all frankly exceeded expectations. I was happier with the fuel economy before my commute became terrible in late fall last year but that's not the car's fault. Lifetime fuel economy is 19.4 mpg. In terms of the car overall, I think my good experience can be somewhat addressed by the following:
- I think the W221 overall turned out to be a pretty reliable platform, especially compared to the W220. Stretching the budget for this car was a HUGE win. It is starting to overlap with the age of my E55 while I owned it, and while it is obviously not an AMG product, it has been far less needy than my E55, despite the W211 and E55's great reputation. I don't think my E55 was "bad." Rather, I think my S550 is quite good. It is lightyears ahead of my STS (which it directly replaced), but I only paid $5k for that one, to be fair.
- The M273 is also earning its place as a historically reliable engine, when all factors are considered (performance, economy, complexity, all relative to earlier and later MB offerings as well as the rest of the market). It's the last port injected V8 that Mercedes developed. Everything after has at least direct injection and for all but a rare M152 application in the R172 SLK55, turbos on all V8s.
- My example was well maintained and cared for. This is always a plus for any used car purchase, no matter what it is.
- My example is light on options compared to what was available. I do think this has improved my overall ownership experience, even if I may still occasionally whine about a feature I wish I had.
- I do a pretty good job with routine inspection each oil change so that should significantly decrease the chance of being surprised by an issue. Also I have done some preemptive maintenance (which is something I was known for all the way back during Caprice times, and I got 312k out of that car, still running), which helps, too. I have sufficient diagnostic equipment should an issue arise, and I keep learning more about how the car actually functions - it is not a scary black box of complexity. All of the potentially scary things, like the 39 modules, "screens," or Airmatic, have presented zero issues. I reject the supposition that anything more complex than a 90s-era vehicle is untenable as a daily driver.

Considering everything, I am not sure what I would have been happier with as a daily driver for the $12k I spent on it in Nov 2021.

It will be due for an oil change in about 1,000 miles. It will also need a brake fluid flush. I will inspect the right front inner axle boot to see how it is going, pertaining specifically to wearing against the clamp (I was originally going to change the boot again but I want to take a look at it - maybe it's fine). I am also toying with the idea of throwing a transmission mount at it. This is an easy job and might improve some mild idle NVH that it's had the entire time I've owned it.

Rolling right up on next 5k oil change interval. I have been mulling over what PM I want to do in addition to the oil change. It is also due for a brake fluid flush. So here is the list:
- Oil change. I seem to be out of M1 0W-40 so I will switch to something else. Probably either Castrol Edge 0W-40 or a Pennzoil product.
- Brake fluid flush. I have an unopened 1L of Pentosin DOT4 (which has a better dry/wet spec than the usual yellow Prestone DOT4). I'll buy one ahead though the flush SHOULD be possible with that 1L. Rockauto is cheaper than FCP on this, too.
- Was considering the coolant pressure tank. They aren't expensive but I need to confirm that I won't need new O-rings or something for the various tubes. Not sure if I want to do OEM from the dealer. OEM @ FCP is more expensive than my dealer. OK there are O-rings but EPC doesn't call them out so I'll inspect and either reuse or I have an O-ring kit if they look worn. OEM is $51 at the dealer but $64 @ FCP.
- Guess I'll need a little coolant. I have a little under a gallon of G48 50/50 remaining, which might be enough. I believe this is locally available anyway.
- Was considering doing a transmission mount, mostly for fun, but perhaps it will clear up a little idling NVH. I think it's easy (I should confirm I don't need to touch the exhaust or other nonsense) and pretty cheap. FCP has Corteco for $77 which might be OEM actually. Or I could do OEM at my dealer for $94. OEM @ FCP is $123 (fail). Looks super easy in WIS.
- This isn't a part but I want to inspect that front right inner CV boot. If the clamp is poking at the boot in a way that is leaving a dent I may need to do something about that. Hopefully it's fine.
- Tire rotation and inspection, as usual
- Shit, it's also due for cabin air at this mileage. Let me add that...

So my parts funnel plans look like this:
- Brake fluid and oil filter from Rockauto. WIX oil filter is more than 2x the price locally at O'Reillys, though they do stock it. Same deal with the brake fluid. They do stock it but it's almost 2x the price. I estimate Rockauto saved $11 vs buying locally. Rockauto was also $4 cheaper than FCP. Amazon was less than $1 cheaper for these items but I'd rather give my business to Rockauto.
- Did another order from Rockauto for a bio-enhanced cabin air filter pair.
- Coolant tank and transmission mount from dealer (both are actually in stock but I couldn't get my act together this week so my internet order probably won't be fulfilled today). OEM parts almost $43 cheaper at dealer than FCP (I do have to drive to Warwick though).
- Oil sourced locally. Scratch that, I can get it via Walmart.com for half the price as other places (5qt jug probably helps). Ended up with Pennzoil 0W-40 euro. Saved $57 doing Walmart.com 5qt jugs vs buying 10qt in store, and it's shipped to my door for free. Amazon does not carry the 5qt jug AND won't let me buy more than 6 qts individually AND it's more expensive anyway.

I know this will get buried but I am documenting it here nonetheless.

I recently found out that late production M278s have cast iron cylinder liners. It's not clear exactly what this achieves but the lore is they are less prone to scoring and generally more reliable. The general question is: is a late M278 reliable enough as a daily, replacing an M273 car? I don't know but these should have the best chance. There is also a certain 2017 GLS550 that I can keep my eye on to observe reliability.

Through Auto Trader research I have determined that 2016-2017 S550s seem to have engine serial numbers that are in the cast iron liner range.

The 2016 is the last year of the 722.9 (7-speed auto). The 2017 is the last year of the M278 + new 9 speed auto. There is no 2018 S550 as they facelifted the W222 and made an S560 with the new M176 4.0L engine (which I have test driven) + 9 speed auto.

All I'm saying is in the future when I am in the market to actually replace my S550, I guess the model year choices would be something like 2016-2017 S550s as well as 2018-2019 S560s or something like that. I had originally overlooked the later M278 cars because they were more expensive than 2014s (obviously) but also still M278 cars. This new information is therefore useful.

As my 07 S550 is just under 101k, I think I have a lot of time left with this car so I would think the driver to replace would be a combo of boredom + opportunity, rather than the car is somehow wearing out or becoming too hard to maintain. Time will tell, but it's been great so far.

Reasons to consider replacing my S550:
- More power
- Likely same or better fuel economy
- General availability of features that mine doesn't have, namely Distronic Plus w/ Steering Assist
- Similar to above, maybe I could find a unicorn W222 S550 with the Burmester 3D system

Reasons to keep driving:
- Even with cast iron liners in the M278, I think the M273 will outlive it. The M176 is maybe too new to judge.
- Nothing wrong with my car
- Functionally, it does everything I need (but as I said above, I *want* certain additional things)
- It seems likely that my car is just a more reliable long term vehicle than any given W222 that I would consider. However, if reliability were my #1 criteria, I don't think I'd be driving an S-class. It's on the list but is NOT number 1.

What is comes down to is, at this time, and for the foreseeable future, the "reasons to replace" do not make me want to part with the S25-30k it would take to get what I am describing. So as I said previously, the ratio of those reasons + opportunity/availability of cheaper examples would slowly shift the equation until one day, a used example shows up at the right price and the right time and I consider pulling the trigger. I think we are realistically 3-5 years from that.

I also need to focus on other automotive priorities: finish sorting out my E63 and deciding what the Malibu operational timeline really looks like. Replacing that is probably going to be in the $20k range. So, replacing my S550 is probably at the bottom of the list.

Broke a lug bolt removing the right rear wheel. Looks like it may have been broken for a while based on the rust pattern. Was able to drill and extract the rest without too much fanfare. Only took like 10 minutes, happily. Good drill bits FTW. Oh, dealer retail on a lug bolt is $12.

It seems like stuff like this always happens to me.

I didn't know where to put this. Pretty much the whole time there is a windshield washer fluid leak from presumably the pass side headlight washer. It is particularly noticeable in freezing weather, where it will leave a small puddle overnight. When I was under it doing the marker lights I decided to investigate and I think this is the issue.
I will poke around and see what I can find. Seems like some kind of interface between the washer hose and the washer nozzle assembly. There is some part in the middle and I don't know if any of this comes apart. I also don't know if I can service this from the bottom or if I need to remove the entire bumper cover. First step is to figure out if there is some kind of O-ring or other plastic type part to replace, or if I need to buy the whole washer nozzle assembly.

Looking more closely at the picture it seems like there may just be a little clip style retainer and the hose slides off the nozzle. Perhaps there is just an O-ring in there. I'll see if I can find a shot of just the nozzle somewhere.

Yes there is.
Provided nothing about the hose or nipple adapter is cracked, I can probably just release the clip, slide the hose off, and install a new O-ring. Let me see if there is an actual LRU for that or if I have to use my assortment.