Repair-It

Have a second between meetings....

It took over an hour and a half but it's done. They passed it (i.e. got a sticker) and installed all 4 new TPMS sensors. I have to say these guys have been very fair to me over the years. They only charged $20/tire for mounting and balancing with no additional labor for installing the sensors I brought. They could have given me a hard time about that but they didn't. They even registered all 4 new sensors to the car for me - they all work now.

As far as the tint, the tech's exact words were "I let the tints slide." He admitted to having tint and other people obviously do. I didn't want to expand upon that as I am good for 2 years now, but unless I get hassled by the police, I will just leave it at this point and see what happens in 2 years.

He did reiterate the law as 70% light transmission and also said stock glass is somewhere in the 75% range. He described the delta as only like 3 or 4 sheets of plastic food wrap. So in effect, tints are more or less illegal on cars in RI. I may find some leniency because the previous owner decided to make the front ones lighter than the rear, so I am more visible to the outside than I'd be if they were all tinted dark.

kevm14 wrote:Keeping track of purchases...

Advance Auto:
- 2 wiper blades ($54, minus $10 rebate)
- Cabin air ($24)
- Engine air ($21.59)
Total: $106.56 w/ tax

RockAuto:
- AC Delco fuel filter ($16)
- AC Delco trans filter ($43)
- 8 AC Delco 41-986 double platinum spark plugs ($41)
- 2 Schrader TPMS sensors ($89.58 for both)
Total w/ shipping and discount: $193.69

There isn't much here that wouldn't be needed on some other used car, at least one that has cabin air and TPMS. Which is many cars. But yeah, up to $300 just for maintenance stuff and that doesn't even include the trans fluid itself.

Adding to this.

Rockauto:
- 2 more TPMS sensors after I noticed a 3rd sensor was getting flaky ($88.09 for both)

Advance Auto:
- 6 quarts Castrol Dexron VI ($20 off from a Speedperk so it was only like $35)

I think I will add coolant and power steering to this list just for good measure. And both diffs and transfer case. Need to find time to do the spark plugs and fuel filter, as well.

Then I need to do the same to the SRX because we've had it for 2 years already and I seem to be prioritizing the STS...

I think this is a relevant data point though. 3 Sigma platform Cadillacs all between 116k and 125k, out of warranty. Two with the full boat Northstar and AWD.

I also ordered all 4 anti-roll bar bushings. That will be probably like $170 shipped I bet.

Left front TPMS starting to flake out. This is the first trouble I've ever really had with TPMS (after replacement). Going to do a warranty swap through Rockauto. Another $20 for mounting and balancing on a $45 sensor....sigh.

I really need to service the trans. I was thinking I would do the ~5 quarts of replacement Dexron VI which is roughly 50%. I would drive and within the next few weeks, do it again, which would give me 75% new fluid. I'm just wondering when I should add the Lubegard friction modifier additive. I mean if I go by some of my research, I could add it right now and not even replace the fluid. I just think that is foolish, even if it did fix the problem. The fluid is still due for replacement, even if the TCC didn't shudder.

In other news, I did an angry pass this morning and while it was somewhat down hill I still hit 110 pretty quickly. Car picks up and goes. The transmission is almost always in the right gear at the right time, and the delivered road torque is pretty linear with throttle position (except at tip in), including any necessary downshifting.

kevm14 wrote:Left front TPMS starting to flake out. This is the first trouble I've ever really had with TPMS (after replacement). Going to do a warranty swap through Rockauto. Another $20 for mounting and balancing on a $45 sensor....sigh.

Left front sensor alternates between working and not. Pretty annoyed but hopefully this warranty replacement will fix that. These really should last 5-10 years...

Oh I did forget to mention that I changed lanes at high speed yesterday and I could feel some sway. I wonder if under these conditions that Performance mode actually firms things up beyond what Touring is set to do. That could be. I still drive entirely in Touring but I will keep this in mind.

Overall, this car handles remarkably well for 4,300 lbs and "only" FE3. Like my CTS-V, it seems to have on the high side of the front negative camber, which helps neutrality.

One thing I will say that is common to this class of vehicle is that the steering ratio is pretty slow. I think the spec was 18.2:1 or something like that. My CTS-V ratio is slow, and so is the SRX. So are the European sedans of this type. Years ago I was told it was an autobahn thing. Fortunately, you can still have reasonably satisfying steering even if the ratio itself is slow. Though BMW did introduce variable steering ratios however many years ago. Which I don't want.

Talking to Adam at lunch yesterday I have a game plan for the transmission.

I will do the ~5 quart fluid and filter change. I will see how that reacts. If it gets significantly better, I will do another fluid change using the drain plug at some point in the near future and NOT add the additive. If it does NOT get significantly better, I will do a fluid change and WILL add the additive. At that point I will have 75% new Dexron VI.

My prediction: I will need to add the additive. Which is fine.

Looking way ahead: if the additive and fluid changes don't fix it, I will consider adding a second tube if the first tube does something. After that, I will probably just live with whatever symptoms remain. I don't think it is worth doing a torque converter.

kevm14 wrote:One thing I will say that is common to this class of vehicle is that the steering ratio is pretty slow. I think the spec was 18.2:1 or something like that. My CTS-V ratio is slow, and so is the SRX. So are the European sedans of this type. Years ago I was told it was an autobahn thing. Fortunately, you can still have reasonably satisfying steering even if the ratio itself is slow. Though BMW did introduce variable steering ratios however many years ago. Which I don't want.

power-assisted rack and pinion; ZF Servotronic II variable assist system available; steering ratio: 18.2:1, variable ratio

It does say variable ratio so I guess it quickens a little off center...

Now that I am looking at the specs again for 07....

front: 12.7 x 1.3 / 323 x 32 vented disc
rear: 12.6 x 1.0 / 320 x 26 vented disc

I guess that is respectable for a non-performance variant. I don't like the brake feel. Fluid flush might help. I should also put my eyes on all 4 brakes at some point.

18 x 8-inch flow formed aluminum

So even with the 235/255 tires, the wheels are the same. Good to know.

Michelin V-rated, 235/50R17 & 255/45R17 or
Michelin W-rated, 235/50R18 & 255/45R18 or
Michelin Pilot Sport, 255/45R18

What's this now? You could get the original Pilot Sports on this car, at least in 2007. And like the sport package (20s) on the SRX, they are all 255s. In the future I would definitely consider 255s all the way around, because it would at least allow a front/rear rotation. That would make the handling even more neutral.

3.6L automatic: 3857 / 1750
3.6L automatic w/AWD: 3660 / 1795
4.6L automatic: 3921 / 1779
4.6L automatic w/AWD: 4230 / 1919

I've been walking around saying 4,300 lbs and I think that is still fair enough. The V6 RWD is about what my CTS-V weighs.

Audio system update: I tested it some more and I can say it is very good. Noticeably better and more powerful than either the CTS-V or SRX BOSE systems. It reminds me of my good Sony studio monitor headphones. They clearly had a higher budget here. Full and balanced frequency response and it never seems strained, either in bass or treble. Correct, up front sound stage though BOSE usually does this well. I am sure it has a limit but it was too loud for me to find out. I need to try that Daft Punk CD which is pretty demanding.

Just did plugs. Doesn't need its own thread because it was pretty easy. A little easier than the SRX, though having done that not that long ago probably helped. I struggled with the coils more on the SRX. Oddly this car specifies a slightly different GM/AC Delco number than the SRX. They are both made in Japan and probably NGK. I will post a few obligatory pics in a bit.

Engine cover removed. This engine bay has obviously never been washed/detailed. This is what I would expect a 12 year old car with 126k to look like under there. I will clean it at some point. Driver's side coil cover. Passenger's side. I knew what to do with those harness brackets (bend them out of the way). I spent a lot of time here on the SRX job trying to figure out the best way to do it. On this car I just bent them back right away and I had no issues. Now I have two sets of Northstar plugs. They looked about like the SRX plugs. A little oil on the threads but otherwise in good condition. These are double platinum and probably would have continued to function fine if I didn't change them. I will test drive and it will probably feel a little smoother but otherwise no different.