Repair-It

Got the Vsport back today. I would say I went 1 for 5 on repairs. The one that was fixed, the sunroof rattle, was actually the most annoying so that made me happy.

Details:

They claimed to have replaced the switch for the hazard lights; however it seems exactly the same as before. The flashers will turn on with a very hard and deliberate press, but then will not turn off easily (I looked like an idiot in traffic when I was trying to shut them off). I didn't realize this until after I left. I assumed this was a straightforward fix. I'll be back...

Sunroof creak seems to be corrected (yay!).

The rear defroster issue, which is clearly an issue in my mind, was met with an explanation that the upper part is an antenna. I agree with that, however the lower part that isn't working is still not right in my mind. Not sure how I will proceed here. This isn't really a big issue for me since I park in the garage, but it seemed like an easy fix.

Got the dreaded could not duplicate on the exhaust rattle and accessory whine.

Although I went 1 for 5, the most annoying of the issues was fixed, so that made me happy. Also, the oil change was $56 all in with tax and everything. I am pretty sure I couldn't do it myself for this

Curiously, they didn't try to upsell me on anything else, other than tires, but even that was a pretty soft sell since the rears are at 4/32nds.

Bob wrote:They claimed to have replaced the switch for the hazard lights; however it seems exactly the same as before. The flashers will turn on with a very hard and deliberate press, but then will not turn off easily (I looked like an idiot in traffic when I was trying to shut them off). I didn't realize this until after I left. I assumed this was a straightforward fix. I'll be back...

Is it a mechanical switch or capacitive (CUE)? Is it possible that it works as designed? Would be pretty crazy if they ordered a part just to appease you.

The rear defroster issue, which is clearly an issue in my mind, was met with an explanation that the upper part is an antenna. I agree with that, however the lower part that isn't working is still not right in my mind. Not sure how I will proceed here. This isn't really a big issue for me since I park in the garage, but it seemed like an easy fix.

Now that makes me wonder. On my STS, the part that doesn't work as it at the top, where one of the antennas is. I have a hard time believing that the design is just not to defrost like the top 6" of rear window. But it is interesting that the complaint sounds the same. I will take a look at mine and see if I think there are actual defroster elements in there. But my lower part works and has no issues. If your lower part is not working I don't really understand what is hard here, except if they want to play hard ball with the diagnosis.

My Roadmaster might also not do the top part? I forget now...too many cars. One thing is for sure: my Caprice defroster worked 100%.

Got the dreaded could not duplicate on the exhaust rattle and accessory whine.

I believe I called that. However, you have still done a good thing. If you do have a failure that can be (reasonably) traced to this service visit, then you may still have warranty coverage on that failure post-CPO. Probably not a guaranteed solution but it is guaranteed NOT to be covered out of warranty if it is not logged while under warranty.

If that's how the switch was designed to work, then it was a massive fail by GM. I need to take a video to demonstrate it.

Here is the defroster. I can't believe this is "working properly."

If you zoom in, you can see where it say "ANTENNA" and "DEFOG" on the border between the working and not working sections near the top.

That does not look right. Did you show them that picture?

My defroster misses the top portion of the rear window but the rest clears. I'm not sure if it should even be missing the top portion, despite the presence of embedded antenna.

If that's how the switch was designed to work, then it was a massive fail by GM. I need to take a video to demonstrate it.

Yeah I just don't understand enough about the switch design. Again I don't even know if it is mechanical or capacitive touch. I would assume mechanical? Because I have no idea how they would "order" and "install" a capacitive switch that is integrated with CUE.

kevm14 wrote:That does not look right. Did you show them that picture?

Yes, I showed them that picture. I think 99/100 people would agree that it is not functioning correctly.

kevm14 wrote:My defroster misses the top portion of the rear window but the rest clears. I'm not sure if it should even be missing the top portion, despite the presence of embedded antenna.

If that's how the switch was designed to work, then it was a massive fail by GM. I need to take a video to demonstrate it.

Yeah I just don't understand enough about the switch design. Again I don't even know if it is mechanical or capacitive touch. I would assume mechanical? Because I have no idea how they would "order" and "install" a capacitive switch that is integrated with CUE.

The switch is capacitive touch. All of the other capacitive touch switches nearby work normally (lane departure, park sensor, auto park, glove box). It's just the 4-way flasher one that is not working right. I'm hoping maybe they can get a whole new capacitive touch panel. Anything having to do with Cue that I can replace with something new while under warranty is a win.

Apparently I am not alone:

https://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/c ... n-off.html

https://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2 ... shers.html

This may be a user error on my part, but I still think it is not ideal.

The most important thing is to know whether it is working as designed, or not. If it is, replacing anything will do nothing and just waste everyone's time, unless there is a software update that somehow helps.

If it is NOT working as designed, then keep pushing until it gets fixed. Simple as that.

So....

Early 14 CTS's had a different Hazzard calibration, The newer calibration where you have to push the button for 1 second is available as an update for those early CTS's

Quote Originally Posted by dobrenyr View Post
Mine turned on with a quick touch but had to hold the button to turn them off. Was driving around with four ways on gor a while before we figured it out !
After the calibration update, the hazard flashers switch must be pressed and held for one second before the hazard flashers will operate.
The hazard flashers also need a one second “all clear” status to change states. This means to turn off the hazard flashers, you must to remove your finger from the hazard switch for at least one second and then press the switch again for one second. If you do not remove your finger for at least one second, the system determines that the switch is still being pressed.

Sounds like intentional behavior and it would have been nice if the dealer could have done a better job helping rather than blindly replacing the switch. It is in the software/firmware, rather than any kind of hardware fault or failure. Try a clean press and hold up to 3 seconds if it takes that long and see if the consistency improves. Sounds like it will.