Yep, it's happening... I'm starting to pull the SAAB's engine this weekend. I already pushed it into the garage and everything.
I got a brand new timing cover, oil pump, and related seals for my 35th birthday. Hopefully after this it will leak less oil and make more oil pressure.
If it doesn't get too frustrating, there may even be some pics of this operation.
If it sucks, I have beer and short ribs.
Step One Remove Engine
Re: Step One Remove Engine
What will you have if it doesn't suck?
Re: Step One Remove Engine
That's not really a contingency I had planned for...
But we're definately not letting those short ribs go to waste!
But we're definately not letting those short ribs go to waste!
Re: Step One Remove Engine
Also I got started tonight. Prob about halfway to pulling the motor now.
pics later..
pics later..
Re: Step One Remove Engine
PIcs were apparently much later. We finished pulling it just in time for dinner on Saturday. Delicious short ribs.
Here is what I ended up with:
And the infamous timing cover, still with sweet oil marks aligned with the belt path:
The oily engine bay:
And the intake side of the engine (timing cover is to the right):
Here is what I ended up with:
Step Two Reinstall engine
Not a lot of pictures here because jobs like this tend to go together fast with little time for greasing up the camera phone.
But a quick synopsis of what happened:
Discovered lots of oil in the intercooler piping after the turbo, indicating failed oil seals in the TD04. Ordered a kit (off of Amazon!!) to rebuild it. Adam rebuilt the turbo while I did various engine reassembly tasks.
Brand new timing cover with new oil pump and oil pump housing were installed. I put a generous amount of assembly lube into the oil pump and then packed the empty space with Vaseline to help suction the first slug of oil into the engine. I also took time to clean all surfaces in several steps. The last step being swapping the surfaces with alcohol. The timing cover and sump both seal against the block with anaerobic gasket maker. Timing cover goes on first, then sump and head. Overhead cams means that the head job includes disengaging the timing chain and then ensuring correct timing afterwards. Spun the engine over a couple of times by hand and it was perfect.
The front stainless steel brake hoses were installed at this time, because we had already removed one hose to get the strut out of the way.
Once it was all back together, I removed the direct ignition cassette connector and the fuel pump fuse and cranked the motor over until oil pressure showed on the gauge. ( I installed a VDO gauge for oil pressure during the last engine debacle).
Spend a bunch of Saturday reassembling the front plastic jigsaw puzzle, and rotary-wirebrushing the rusty rotors. Rears may need a replacement.
But a quick synopsis of what happened:
Discovered lots of oil in the intercooler piping after the turbo, indicating failed oil seals in the TD04. Ordered a kit (off of Amazon!!) to rebuild it. Adam rebuilt the turbo while I did various engine reassembly tasks.
Brand new timing cover with new oil pump and oil pump housing were installed. I put a generous amount of assembly lube into the oil pump and then packed the empty space with Vaseline to help suction the first slug of oil into the engine. I also took time to clean all surfaces in several steps. The last step being swapping the surfaces with alcohol. The timing cover and sump both seal against the block with anaerobic gasket maker. Timing cover goes on first, then sump and head. Overhead cams means that the head job includes disengaging the timing chain and then ensuring correct timing afterwards. Spun the engine over a couple of times by hand and it was perfect.
The front stainless steel brake hoses were installed at this time, because we had already removed one hose to get the strut out of the way.
Once it was all back together, I removed the direct ignition cassette connector and the fuel pump fuse and cranked the motor over until oil pressure showed on the gauge. ( I installed a VDO gauge for oil pressure during the last engine debacle).
Spend a bunch of Saturday reassembling the front plastic jigsaw puzzle, and rotary-wirebrushing the rusty rotors. Rears may need a replacement.
Re: Step One Remove Engine
Once oil pressure showed up on the gauge, it was time to start the car.
Reattached the fuel pump fuse and DIC wiring. Cranked for a while, no luck. Cranked again, no luck. We walked around the car, checking connectors and hoses. Checked to make sure there was fuel in the rail. There was. BTW, here is a schraeder valve on the rail for most cars for attaching a fuel gauge. I just used a screwdriver to spray a bit of fuel out of this valve. If you use this trick, take precautions to avoid getting fuel in your eyes.
I got back in the car and cranked it and it started. Maybe fuel had just gotten to the rail? Anyways, the dash lights were weird and dim, idle wasn't great, but it was running. We noticed one of the steel brake lines was getting really hot, and shut the car down. Adam discovered a ground cable to the transmission that was not connected. Once it was reattached, the brake line stayed cool, and the dash lights were back to normal. The car runs!
Reattached the fuel pump fuse and DIC wiring. Cranked for a while, no luck. Cranked again, no luck. We walked around the car, checking connectors and hoses. Checked to make sure there was fuel in the rail. There was. BTW, here is a schraeder valve on the rail for most cars for attaching a fuel gauge. I just used a screwdriver to spray a bit of fuel out of this valve. If you use this trick, take precautions to avoid getting fuel in your eyes.
I got back in the car and cranked it and it started. Maybe fuel had just gotten to the rail? Anyways, the dash lights were weird and dim, idle wasn't great, but it was running. We noticed one of the steel brake lines was getting really hot, and shut the car down. Adam discovered a ground cable to the transmission that was not connected. Once it was reattached, the brake line stayed cool, and the dash lights were back to normal. The car runs!
Re: Step One Remove Engine
Not on 2003 Corollas, evidently. Still flummoxed over that (ask Bill).Fast_Ed wrote:BTW, here is a schraeder valve on the rail for most cars for attaching a fuel gauge.
Fast_Ed wrote:We noticed one of the steel brake lines was getting really hot, and shut the car down. Adam discovered a ground cable to the transmission that was not connected.
Re: Step One Remove Engine
Yeah. If we hadn't installed the stainless brake lines, not sure how stuff would have worked out. Turns out that is somehow a chassis ground?kevm14 wrote:Fast_Ed wrote:We noticed one of the steel brake lines was getting really hot, and shut the car down. Adam discovered a ground cable to the transmission that was not connected.
Re: Step One Remove Engine
That's why grounds are sketchy. You think a ground is disconnected, and things stop. But no, electricity just finds another path (either connect or disconnect all - "some" is the worst, which I guess is what happened). And that car has a particularly sketchy history with grounds.
I don't know from where to where the line was carrying current but it obviously was connecting two things in a way that was the path of least resistance. Which is hilarious.
I don't know from where to where the line was carrying current but it obviously was connecting two things in a way that was the path of least resistance. Which is hilarious.