The real trick will be installing. I will have to rig up a rubber band or something to hold the bendix lever out so I can slip the solenoid plunger into the "Y" of it. I'll get a pic or make a terrible video. Or both.
Garden tractor acquisition
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Received starter solenoid. It looks like it will be a perfect fit. I hope it's a real Stens and not an imposter.
The real trick will be installing. I will have to rig up a rubber band or something to hold the bendix lever out so I can slip the solenoid plunger into the "Y" of it. I'll get a pic or make a terrible video. Or both.
The real trick will be installing. I will have to rig up a rubber band or something to hold the bendix lever out so I can slip the solenoid plunger into the "Y" of it. I'll get a pic or make a terrible video. Or both.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
He found the 3 point hitch! Heading up there in a few with Adam to grab the loader hitch and 3 point. Goal is to fit it all in the trunk of my S550 but I have a lot of blankets, foam and cardboard to protect the back seat if it comes to that. I could even bungie to the LATCH hooks. Should be prepared.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
So the solenoid doesn't seem to have been the problem. There is a nasty voltage drop at the solenoid when it doesn't crank. Like 6V. I cleaned some plugs and stuff and got that up to 6.5V at least. There is another 1V drop between there and the brake switch. But my main issue is between the brake switch and the PTO switch. That's basically a 10 pin plug and the cruise switch and MAYBE the output of the PTO but I cleaned the pins at least.
Everything on here that is green tested like 11.5V while trying to crank and just clicking. The red areas tested between 6.5 and 7.5V during the same condition. So there is another 4V drop somewhere on the bold wiring stuff that I did not mark up, between the red and blue areas. Somewhere in there should be the culprit, unless it's just a lot of 1V drops. We'll see. I need to locate both the cruise switch and that 10 pin connector first...
Everything on here that is green tested like 11.5V while trying to crank and just clicking. The red areas tested between 6.5 and 7.5V during the same condition. So there is another 4V drop somewhere on the bold wiring stuff that I did not mark up, between the red and blue areas. Somewhere in there should be the culprit, unless it's just a lot of 1V drops. We'll see. I need to locate both the cruise switch and that 10 pin connector first...
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Two new videos:kevm14 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 07, 2021 8:11 pm https://youtu.be/5Izc4dSZ9zY
Maybe I can replace the solenoid or possibly take it apart and clean the contactor plate.
Installing solenoid and then continuing the diagnostic process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETVAj3hvz74
Examining wiring schematics and coming up with a plan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4Lit1yrz3g
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
We retrieved the items. Front end loader mid hitch, 3 point hitch and some kind of wheel thing that he thought went with it so I just took it so as to not annoy him any further. Went in the trunk with no issue though if items were a few inches longer in certain directions it would have been an issue. So that's why I was worried.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ochTVds5LEskevm14 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 19, 2021 10:47 amTwo new videos:kevm14 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 07, 2021 8:11 pm https://youtu.be/5Izc4dSZ9zY
Maybe I can replace the solenoid or possibly take it apart and clean the contactor plate.
Installing solenoid and then continuing the diagnostic process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETVAj3hvz74
Examining wiring schematics and coming up with a plan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4Lit1yrz3g
Fixed?
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Removed, cleaned and rebuilt carb. Doesn't seem to have fixed the idle issue. Played with the governor for a while. Reset the governor. Installed my governed idle spring and adjusted the tab. Tried to set idle and full speed. It seems better I guess but clearly something is still off. It may be loading up at idle. The internet says a common issue is the accelerator pump diaphram can get holes and pass extra fuel, causing this problem. Sheesh. So I ordered an accelerator pump rebuild kit. It actually looks easy. Pull carb off and the pump has its own screws and access area. I'll get to that when I get my parts.
Then I worked on the snow blower. The metal was SOOOO far gone and rammed over on itself. Seemed beyond saving without welding something. Being very patient and trying to actually practice metal working skills, I slowly was able to uncurl the bent over blower housing from itself. I hammered, pried and used various adjustable wrenches to work the metal carefully. Eventually I decided to pull out the new scraper bar and realized I needed to do more adjusting so I did. Shockingly I was able to install it with like 8 of the outer bolts (7 of which came with the old bar which was actually BENT and that's a big deal since this is like 3/16" plate). The middle bolt holes are just completely missing. I would have to weld a plate and drill holes using the scraper as a guide but I believe it would actually be functional like this. It will probably last just fine since I won't be slamming into rocks for 15 years with it.
One shoe was comically worn. Like down to a nub. I replaced that shoe and ordered a second one for the other side. It's serviceable but worn so I'd like to start fresh. Adjusted the shoe height so the scraper is about one washer above the driveway.
Oh I also straightened the auger which had multiple bent areas. That's thick, too, so it took some effort to bend back. Got it looking halfway decent.
Greased machine (well, partly) and the blower (mostly, going to need a new zerk on one bearing). It should be good to use in an actual snow fall believe it or not. Probably needs an oil change. I'd like to install the snow cab also.
One shoe was comically worn. Like down to a nub. I replaced that shoe and ordered a second one for the other side. It's serviceable but worn so I'd like to start fresh. Adjusted the shoe height so the scraper is about one washer above the driveway.
Greased machine (well, partly) and the blower (mostly, going to need a new zerk on one bearing). It should be good to use in an actual snow fall believe it or not. Probably needs an oil change. I'd like to install the snow cab also.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm using the kit. Made a video of the whole thing which I will post here. My carb gasket is a day away so maybe I'll throw a new base gasket in to finish the job when it comes tomorrow. Moved one of the governor springs again and adjusted the governed idle tab/speed, again. Manual says for a governed idle you typically want 300 rpm more than the closed throttle idle. That's around 1200 so governed idle is around 1500-1600. It actually seems to work reasonably well. It kind of sucks holding a speed in the middle and then is OK again at the higher end. I could try to put the original governor spring back and see how it behaves but I'm reasonably satisfied with this as it is now. It still seems to bog at idle occasionally. The starter also clicked on me a few times today but mostly it cranked fine. So I guess nothing is 100% fixed but clearly way improved, so I'll give myself partial credit.
Did plugs, oil and filter. Greased more stuff. Oiled the snow blower chute. Need to oil more things on the chassis.
Found a common filter size that crosses to the filter. And it's deeper, too. Nice. About 320 hours. Used NGK plugs, the BKR5E. Got the plugs and filter at Advance. Tractor Supply had nothing in stock that I needed.
Took a second look at the snow blower auger bearing on the opposite side of the chain. I couldn't figure out where the zerk was supposed to go. FInally I looked at my 42" unit since they seem to be constructed exactly the same way. Turns out the zerk is supposed to go in the inner bearing plate! But there was no hole. Could someone have clocked the plate wrong and the hole is hiding on the other side of the auger? I unbolted it and spun it around. Sure enough, yes. Wow.
My 1/4-28" fitting wouldn't thread in so I made threads and that worked. But then it would bottom out on the blower housing and pull the plate away. I took off the inner plate again and notched the blower frame with a dremel to make a relief for the zerk. That seemed to work. Filled it full of grease even though it seems to be a sealed bearing.
Then I installed my other new shoe. Not nearly as worn as the other side but still visibly worn.
Did plugs, oil and filter. Greased more stuff. Oiled the snow blower chute. Need to oil more things on the chassis.
Found a common filter size that crosses to the filter. And it's deeper, too. Nice. About 320 hours. Used NGK plugs, the BKR5E. Got the plugs and filter at Advance. Tractor Supply had nothing in stock that I needed.
Took a second look at the snow blower auger bearing on the opposite side of the chain. I couldn't figure out where the zerk was supposed to go. FInally I looked at my 42" unit since they seem to be constructed exactly the same way. Turns out the zerk is supposed to go in the inner bearing plate! But there was no hole. Could someone have clocked the plate wrong and the hole is hiding on the other side of the auger? I unbolted it and spun it around. Sure enough, yes. Wow.
My 1/4-28" fitting wouldn't thread in so I made threads and that worked. But then it would bottom out on the blower housing and pull the plate away. I took off the inner plate again and notched the blower frame with a dremel to make a relief for the zerk. That seemed to work. Filled it full of grease even though it seems to be a sealed bearing.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
I was looking at the manual again and came across this at the end.
I already knew the 20 hp Kohler (base) model had a lower top speed of 7 vs 8 mph but now I see why. The 20 hp Kohler base model gets smaller front and rear tires!! In fact, the math works perfectly. The other machines get 26" rear tires and the 20 hp Kohler gets 23s. So 23/26*8 = 7 mph. That's where the speed difference comes from. It was kind of funny, too, because yesterday I tried out full engine speed, full hydro speed and high range and honestly it goes plenty fast. My thought was...if this is 7 mph I don't need to go 8. It would be a wild ride on anything but a smooth surface.
So why the smaller tires on the 20HP model? Not sure but I came up with two working theories: 1) The base 48" deck somehow works better with the smaller tires or 2) They used smaller tires on the base model to help get the price down perhaps on the theory that the owner may do less heavy work with it. I think the bigger tires would be better in just about every usage scenario, being taller and wider. It would be 23" vs 26" tall on the rear and 16" vs 18" tall on the front. An inch wider front and 1.5" wider rear. Seemingly the same wheels, or at least wheel diameter.
Obviously I fell into a bottomless depression on this news. But I was able to crawl to the tractor, hand over hand, just to confirm the bad news. That's when things got interesting.
First I checked the fronts.
What's this now??? The bigger size? Can't be. Let me check the other side. Yup, other side is the same. Damn.
The 64 thousand dollar question: what about the rears then?
I'll be damned! Checked the other side, too, and it's the same.
One last theory: even though the engine is a 20HP Kohler, I believe it is not original to this machine, something like ~4-6 years newer or so (I think the machine is a 2000 or 2001 and the engine a 2005 or 2006). My evidence for that:
This can't be a 2005 or 2006 because the last year for the Legacy was 2003. In 2004 they slightly refreshed the line and named it the Legacy XL. Side note, I believe all XLs came with external hydraulics (a different hydro unit), had available 4WD and typically Briggs engines (Briggs bought Simplicity around 2003). Other side note, I see the 25HP model had optional external hydraulics. Not sure how that worked but I guess they just made that standard in 2004 with the XL (all were XLs). I also think ROPS became standard around the XL model years (roll-over protective structure).
Anyway, maybe this is not the 20HP base model.
No, it is. It actually says "20 V-twin" on the rear fender and the part number matches:
Evidence of tractor age:
So that's why I've been saying 2000 or 2001 model year, assuming that was the first or second oil change. Maybe 2001 is most likely.
Anyway, back to the tire mystery. There are only a few options for how this happened.
1) It was ordered like this somehow
2) The manual is wrong
3) It was either a dealer retrofit when new or perhaps when someone outfitted the loader or something like that (or any other time after manufacture)
I don't think the manual is wrong. So I think #3 is probably most likely. I could check to see if the larger tires are specified for the loader or other attachments.
I already knew the 20 hp Kohler (base) model had a lower top speed of 7 vs 8 mph but now I see why. The 20 hp Kohler base model gets smaller front and rear tires!! In fact, the math works perfectly. The other machines get 26" rear tires and the 20 hp Kohler gets 23s. So 23/26*8 = 7 mph. That's where the speed difference comes from. It was kind of funny, too, because yesterday I tried out full engine speed, full hydro speed and high range and honestly it goes plenty fast. My thought was...if this is 7 mph I don't need to go 8. It would be a wild ride on anything but a smooth surface.
So why the smaller tires on the 20HP model? Not sure but I came up with two working theories: 1) The base 48" deck somehow works better with the smaller tires or 2) They used smaller tires on the base model to help get the price down perhaps on the theory that the owner may do less heavy work with it. I think the bigger tires would be better in just about every usage scenario, being taller and wider. It would be 23" vs 26" tall on the rear and 16" vs 18" tall on the front. An inch wider front and 1.5" wider rear. Seemingly the same wheels, or at least wheel diameter.
Obviously I fell into a bottomless depression on this news. But I was able to crawl to the tractor, hand over hand, just to confirm the bad news. That's when things got interesting.
First I checked the fronts.
What's this now??? The bigger size? Can't be. Let me check the other side. Yup, other side is the same. Damn.
The 64 thousand dollar question: what about the rears then?
I'll be damned! Checked the other side, too, and it's the same.
One last theory: even though the engine is a 20HP Kohler, I believe it is not original to this machine, something like ~4-6 years newer or so (I think the machine is a 2000 or 2001 and the engine a 2005 or 2006). My evidence for that:
This can't be a 2005 or 2006 because the last year for the Legacy was 2003. In 2004 they slightly refreshed the line and named it the Legacy XL. Side note, I believe all XLs came with external hydraulics (a different hydro unit), had available 4WD and typically Briggs engines (Briggs bought Simplicity around 2003). Other side note, I see the 25HP model had optional external hydraulics. Not sure how that worked but I guess they just made that standard in 2004 with the XL (all were XLs). I also think ROPS became standard around the XL model years (roll-over protective structure).
Anyway, maybe this is not the 20HP base model.
No, it is. It actually says "20 V-twin" on the rear fender and the part number matches:
Evidence of tractor age:
So that's why I've been saying 2000 or 2001 model year, assuming that was the first or second oil change. Maybe 2001 is most likely.
Anyway, back to the tire mystery. There are only a few options for how this happened.
1) It was ordered like this somehow
2) The manual is wrong
3) It was either a dealer retrofit when new or perhaps when someone outfitted the loader or something like that (or any other time after manufacture)
I don't think the manual is wrong. So I think #3 is probably most likely. I could check to see if the larger tires are specified for the loader or other attachments.