Repair-It

My ball bearing wheels with tires finally shipped from Northern Tool. This shouldn't really impact performance while snow blowing too much, when I'm on the driveway. But I will say over uneven terrain like driving the machine to and from under the deck, if the front tires go over anything uneven, the bushings deflect a significant amount. This can reduce steering traction significantly because of gross camber changes but also make the tire steer angle get all screwed up. It will also increase enjoyment a bit since the front end will be a little bit more precise.

It also needs some steering bushings and maybe I will put those on the list when I do the engine swap. I think I need to pull the gas tank completely off and possibly pull the steering shaft to get to the various bushings. The steering slop is significant though still better than most 20 year old low end Craftsman lawn tractors. My Simplicity is actually pretty tight for a lawn machine. I don't think it's the actual rack and pinion. I think it's the bushings allowing the steering column (to which the rack is bolted) to pull away from the pinion, increasing lash significantly. I have these so I should locate them...

Front wheel upgrade: https://youtu.be/hxbrahrZjkA

Obviously there is nothing to it but I was a little concerned about fitment. I had to remove the thrust washer (and file down some minor burs on both spindles) but otherwise the wheels slipped on and the C clip fit in with just barely enough room. Once I greased the hub, there was basically no play at all. And it's a bearing so it won't just immediately wear out like a bushing (or flex like plastic). One downside to these is the Kenda tires don't have as much tread on them as the Carlisle tires. So that could make them less good for snow traction. But I'm hoping what's there is still OK, and the wheel not flopping around as much as I drive around will improve the overall function of the machine.

41 pages later, I went ahead and bought a real garden tractor. Imagine that.

https://www.partstree.com/models/169321 ... actor-20hp

https://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tracto ... cy-20.html

https://www.partstree.com/models/ch20-6 ... 0hp-14-9kw

https://usermanual.wiki/Simplicity/Simp ... 777569.pdf

Need to download and re-host these but for now all available Simplicity manuals for the tractor: https://www.simplicitymfg.com/na/en_us/ ... ed=1693219

Ordered a new tilt wheel lever. It's missing. And a new scraper bar. But the worst part is the blower housing is pretty chewed up. Someone used it without the scraper bar on a dirt driveway and the sheet metal is all curled over. I will try to bend/bang it back where it needs to be and assess if any welding is required.

Other things:
- Ordered carb kit (low speed circuit partially plugged)
- Ordered headlights. They are 894 halogen fog bulbs.
- Cleaned connection for rear tail lamps. Removed bulbs (look like 194s), sprayed Deoxit into socket and did stuff like that. They seem better.
- Figure out battery/starting issue
- I guess I should change the oil and filter...
- Skis/shoes ordered
- Assemble snow cab. Hopefully we didn't lose anything more than a short 1/4-20 bolt...
- Check tire pressures

kevm14 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 8:20 pm - Figure out battery/starting issue

I just tried now. Battery at a perfect 12.8xx V sitting since Sunday. Turn key to crank. Just clicks. Voltage does drop but starter doesn't engage. I basically just flicked the key into and out of crank and eventually it cranked perfectly and fired right up, pretty instantly I must say. I don't think it's a battery issue or cable issue or ignition switch issue. I think it's a solenoid/relay thing or maybe even the starter itself.

Best diagnostic direction: use a test light to see if the starter solenoid is getting power when the ignition switch is in crank and it doesn't crank. So I'll need to catch it in the act. If it lights, it's a starter issue of some kind. If not, it's something upstream of that, such as a relay or something. I think it's the starter. I could also feel the solenoid to see if that is engaging but the motor just won't turn. That would indicate either a bad brush/bad spot on the commutator, or an issue with the contactor on the solenoid. Either of that is basically the same as a "bad starter." Not sure if I can service anything on it. I was hoping usage would help if it's just a starter thing.

https://youtu.be/5Izc4dSZ9zY

Maybe I can replace the solenoid or possibly take it apart and clean the contactor plate.

Fork option for that future date where I am able to actually mount the loader.

https://www.innovateengineering.pro/forks/

Went out to the tractor. Front right tire completely flat. I had just inflated it a bit so maybe the valve core is bad. I have new ones I can try if it happens again. I inflated it again. There is also no valve cap FWIW. I also noticed a previous puncture repair but I think it's holding. I will try soapy water and more effort if it happens again.

Pulled the solenoid off the starter. Not sure I will be able to get it back on without removing the starter so whatever. Can't take it apart easily. I'd have to work and bend the housing to release the plastic end cap with the terminals. Just don't feel like it. I worked it a bit and wasn't getting very far. Ordered a Stens solenoid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224730297220

New Stens 435-864 Starter Solenoid Fits OEM - Kawasaki Kohler 52 435 02-S

$33. Could have gotten a generic for $20 but figured the Stens would be better.

Also getting ahead of myself and ordered the governed idle spring for this. I have no clue if a single spring can convert it to governed idle but I will try.

24 089 55-S and was only like $8 shipped. I looked up some diagrams and noted that difference.
One with governed idle:
https://www.partstree.com/models/ch20-6 ... 24-390-10/

Mine: https://www.partstree.com/models/ch20-6 ... ontrols-8/

The lack of governed idle pisses me off. It is entirely possible that Simplicity did this on purpose because they don't want you running low RPMs. Maybe the transmission can overheat. I don't think the engine cares, because, again, they did have a governed idle option. But I can't stand it so I will see if this works. On my Briggs, they maintain a nice 1250-1300 rpm idle no matter if you are driving around, climbing a hill, engaging the mower or snow blower, etc.

Of course I also noticed that with the lights on, the battery doesn't really charge until about 2000 rpm, which could be another reason for seeming to require higher operating RPMs. Well I wouldn't usually run the lights so I reserve the right to use my own damn tractor how I please. Sheesh.

The seller claims he found the mid-mount hitch for the front end loader! He will send a pic today to verify. I asked if he found anything else and said maybe some wheels?? We'll see. I don't think I'm going to make him ship the hitch thing because it's huge. I will probably take another trip up there, but this time not in the truck.

Looks like I am also missing the 3 point hitch to install the York rake. Seller says not sure if he has but he said that about the loader hitch, too. So I am not going up there until he finds it. Or, I will actually help him look. It seems like many of the arms/links from the hitch are on the rake but the hitch frame and lift rod are clearly missing.

https://www.partstree.com/models/169357 ... 3-point-0/

Or