General 99 Ram thread

[kevm14]

Replaced fog light. Manual had the wrong bulb type. Works now.

Manual also had the wrong bulb type for the hood light. Which also wasn't burned out. It was just a connection issue.

The overhead map lights were also not burned out as I thought. One had a broken switch and a working bulb. The other had a working switch and no bulb. So I swapped the good bulb to the good switch and now at least there is a passenger side map light.

Check engine light came on. I was pretty sure it would be evaporative emissions. It is not.

Code P0138
"O2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2"

Hmm. Time to do some reading. Normally I would expect a different code if the sensor just needed to be replaced. I will give a quick inspection of wiring, do some reading and probably order an O2.

[kevm14]

Sensor 2 is the rear O2 behind the cat. I unplugged it and the voltage stayed at 1V but I don't know if that is normal. I plugged it back in and it seems to be responding. I reset the code and I will keep an eye on it. Not sure if it is just a sensor issue or if there could be a wiring issue.

[kevm14]

I did 37 on the larger tires.

Hard to believe but the difference is noticeable between 33-34 and 37. The ride got harder (I can feel more chassis vibes now) but the handling also improved.

[kevm14]

Sensor 2 is the rear O2 behind the cat. I unplugged it and the voltage stayed at 1V but I don't know if that is normal. I plugged it back in and it seems to be responding. I reset the code and I will keep an eye on it. Not sure if it is just a sensor issue or if there could be a wiring issue.

After letting it idle for 10 minutes, the sensor 2 voltage was stuck at 1.000V again. Then I went for a test drive and it seemed to behave the entire time. I don't really know what is going on. The rear O2 (rockauto says NTK is the OEM) is $35. So if I have any more issues, I think I will just do a new O2. I did physically inspect and everything looked normal.

Right now the only unready OBD-II tests are O2 heater and the cat efficiency. With two unready tests, I may already pass emissions. I don't know the year cut off for when more tests are allowed to be unready and still pass.

I think the plan is get a plate on Tuesday, drive to work Wed to Fri and schedule an inspection for Sat. Hopefully things work out between now and then without having to change any parts.

Side note, it still is a pain in the ass about the fan clutch. It seems to require sustained driving at 2,500 rpm for it to finally unlock. 70 mph is 2,000 so I would be curious if it really stays locked on a long highway drive. That would be ridiculous and a definite hit to fuel economy. I wish it acted normally. At least in the summer it would be drawing all kinds of air over the A/C condenser but in the winter it is just absurd. Ironically, it may actually unlock more readily in warmer weather which, again, is dumb. I thought I talked myself out of changing it so I dunno now.

[kevm14]

Did an oil change. 5 quarts Valvoline semi-syn HM 5W-30. When I checked the oil before changing, it was maybe halfway between the marks. When I changed it, started it, shut it off, and let it sit for a bit, I checked it again. It was almost in the same place. So I'm thinking it wants a bit more than 5 quarts. It also means it may have used nothing at all since the last change. It has almost 119k now and it was changed at 117k so around 2,000 miles. I wouldn't expect it to really use any in 2k so that checks out.

Something in the windshield washer fluid tank is leaking. It looks like the level sensor is actually leaking around its gasket. Figures. I should probably replace that.

Also greased the front end. It is basically a B-body front end in terms of steering linkage parts. The driver's side lower ball joint would not take grease. Gah. I did the oil change and greasing without jacking it up or using ramps but there wasn't quite enough room to work comfortably. The thing is, with the side mirrors out, there is probably 1 inch of clearance between the garage door frame and those mirrors. Also, I couldn't open the hood all the way if I drove it on ramps. It would also get very close to the garage door opener. I may experiment tomorrow. Actually I still need to rotate the tires. It would probably be easier just to do it in the driveway, like old school. Maybe I will try greasing that ball joint with the wheel off...

I also took the air intake off. There was some mouse stuff in there. There is a cold air intake tube that goes directly to the passenger fender which is interesting. Also the air path requires the air to go up through the air filter so mice can't build a nest on top of the filter, unless they figured out how to climb up and chew through it. I also leaf blew off a bunch of junk that was sitting on the cowl cover.

[kevm14]

Actually I still need to rotate the tires. It would probably be easier just to do it in the driveway, like old school. Maybe I will try greasing that ball joint with the wheel off...

Cross-rotated tires in the typical method for non-directional tires (back crosses to the front, front goes straight back, repeat each time). I inspected the front brakes. They are coming due but I am sure I can wait until the spring. I can probably wait longer.

5 lug. Torque is 95 just to be different.

I did get grease in that lower ball joint. It went in real hard (hey now). I also added more to the rest of the ball joints - I don't think I did enough before. Or they were drier than they should have been.

[kevm14]

I just realized Adam and I bought vehicles (I paid $1) almost the same age (98 vs 99) at almost the same time and they have almost the same mileage (120k vs 119k). They both have rust. One has 230hp and the other has 240hp and both are 2WD. They both have limited rear seating. Discuss.

[kevm14]

Fun facts about the tires:
They are Fuzion SUV as I mentioned before, in 245/75-16. Tirerack sells them for $86.25/ea which is lower than I expected for something meaty. Also, they are 30.5" tall. In off-roading parlance, I am almost rolling 31s.

Additionally, they are marked as a best seller.

Highest rated in this size:
BRIDGESTONE
BLIZZAK DM-V2
Light Truck/SUV Studless Ice & Snow
$117.45/ea

Highest rated all-terrain:
BFGOODRICH
ALL-TERRAIN T/A KO2
On-/Off-Road All-Terrain
$171.47/ea

Highest rated LT highway (fun fact: LT tires don't appear to have tread wear ratings, which reminds me of trucks over 8,600 lb GVWR and fuel economy)
MICHELIN
DEFENDER LTX M/S
Highway All-Season
$160.00/ea with a $30 discount per tire

Incidentally, the non-LT version of the above is $147.45/ea and has an 800 tread wear.

Most expensive:
BRIDGESTONE
DURAVIS M773II
On-/Off-Road Commercial Traction
$196.17/ea

These come with 17/32" tread!! One review:

Vehicle: 1997 GMC Suburban 1500 4wd
4.7
Miles Driven on Tires: 100,000
Location: KUNA, ID
Driving Condition: Combined Highway/City
Driving Style: Average

Initial Review:

July 23, 2015

I purchased these tires four years ago. Four years later i have an amazing amount of miles on my set of tires. I drive about 26000 miles a year which as of this posting puts the miles at about 105000 miles. I work in the oil fields so a lot of the miles are on the interstate driving to and from work reporting for duty and heading home for days off. The suburban is always loaded as it is a work truck not a family vehicle. These tires handle all on and off road conditions i have been able to encounter in the last four years, From elk hunting in the highest mountain peaks and muddy back country roads, to driving down ice covered wind driven Wyoming interstates. They are ten ply tires so i have only had one flat in four years and in my opinion are about bullet proof. After reading other reviews on this tire i am not sure whats not to like about these tires. I still have 14/32 of tread left on these tires (measured by tire gauge). They literally wear like steel and am not sure as to when i am going to replace these tires because as of now they really don't need swapped out. The value in this set of tires is just unbelievable and am telling everyone i know about these tires. They are not the sexiest tires around but they just work. As far as on road ice condition problems, I have not encountered that what so ever and i drive on a lot of ice every year. However the suburban is a super heavy vehicle and loaded all the time. I only kick on the four wheel drive on the interstate when it gets so bad that you probably shouldn't be on the road anyway. As far as off-roading as I mentioned the ten ply tires have been virtually unpenetrable. If things get so bad in the back country that i was wishing i had mud tires on my simple solution is to pack a set of chains that get me out of any tight spot where a more aggressive tread would be called for. Long story short if you want tires that last and get the job done I don't know how you can go wrong.

Sounds amazing. He literally has 100k on these and they have 14/32" tread left which is most than most new tires come with. The very next review:

Vehicle: 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD 4wd
3.1
Miles Driven on Tires: 11,400
Location: North Royalton, oh
Driving Condition: Mostly City
Driving Style: Average

Initial Review:

December 28, 2012

Great when tire was new (17/32 of tread). After 11,000 miles tires are worn down to 5/32. I do haul alot with my truck but never overloaded. Who would buy a heavy duty truck to go grocrey shoping.

Mostly city driving with loads (the first review was highway driving but maybe with less load)...still that is an order of magnitude of difference. Who the hell knows...

Cheapest tire:
SUMITOMO
ENCOUNTER HT
Highway All-Season
$85.25

Which means the Fuzion SUV is the second cheapest tire.

[kevm14]

Updated the service history (link: http://forums.kevinallenmoore.com/viewt ... 252#p11252)

Look how expensive even normal maintenance is at a shop. You can see why the automakers have made a big push for 100,000 mile service intervals of major stuff like plugs, coolant, transmission fluid, etc.

The only thing abnormal about the service history (other than the fact that many cars don't get so well maintained) is two water pumps in 105k (my original Caprice pump lasted to 185k and I am still on the second at 308k and that pump cost $37) and obviously the transmission. Ok, ball joints, too. Those things actually add up to like $3500 combined. Shop prices of course. The actual parts for this truck, like a B-body, are pretty cheap. So I should be fine doing my own work. As long as the transmission holds up.

[kevm14]

So much fun at the Cranston DMV.

First I am never going back there unless someone can assure me that are not busy. It was like TSA at the airport. A line just to get a ticket to wait in line. They do also look at your paperwork so you have your shit together when you get in the real line. And when they did so, they saw the bill of sale for $1. I did actually pay $1. But they said "$1? so this was a gift?". I said "no, I actually paid $1.". "Ok so it was a gift.". So she tells me to "take it up with taxation" which was a different lady. No line there. I gave her the same story. She said, you either need a notarized letter from non-immediate family gifting the truck, or you can pay tax on the book value.

So I'm thinking, book value, how much could that possibly be? It's a 17 year old 2WD Dodge Ram. Well, her stupid little NADA book said $4200. So that would be $297.50 in tax. Fuck that! Especially since I actually paid $1 - not like I paid real money and was trying to cheat (I did that with my Camaro from my other uncle so this must be DMV karma. Or carma.)

So my uncle is going to draft a simple letter that he gifted me the truck and have it notarized and mail it to me. There is a form on my end that I fill out with the same info and it is notarized by the taxation person. Then I will pay no sales tax, saving $300.

I made my inspection appointment for Sat morning so if it gets in the mail today, maybe I will get it Thursday, and can hit the DMV in Middletown on Friday and get plates in time for my inspection.