05 Cadillac STS (5L50) transmission fluid & filter change
Posted: Wed May 31, 2017 8:27 pm
TL;DR: this was not that bad.
First, I had to lift the car up in the air and get it fairly level for filling. Before I drained a drop of fluid, I made sure I could loosen the fill plug in the trans case. By the way, the internet said the drain plug would be a T-47 and the fill would be a T-45. Both plugs that came with the new filter were T-45. And so were the ones on the car. Ok that's fine.
I was able to just barely jam my 3/8" ratchet with T-45 into place. I had to squish the heat shielding but I just got it to fit. It loosened without too much effort.
With that done, I removed the drain plug and witnessed the glory of the transmission pan drain plug. When that was done, I put it back finger tight and buzzed all the 10mm pan bolts off with my Ryobi impact, like I did with the truck. Makes that super easy. I did have to use a universal on one bolt and a box wrench on another. I took this opportunity to try out my Harbor Freight ratcheting wrenches, which worked great.
Remove the pan. This is what you will see. Here is the fill plug by the way. Once the pan was down, I pulled the filter. It is held in place similar to the 700R4/4L60-E with no retainers. To remove the old seal, just a little prying with a flat screwdriver does the trick. Oh, I should probably mention: the old fluid looked like engine oil. It did not smell burnt but didn't smell new, either. Again, it resembled engine oil in color. It was the correct viscosity for transmission fluid. It was due for sure.
Then I cleaned the pan and magnet which didn't have too much on it. The gasket is the reusable type (metal with an inner perimeter seal) but it looked a little tired to me so I made a trip up to Herb Chambers in Warwick and got a new one for $14.xx. While I was there I picked up some touch up paint which was like $22.50. It has a base and a separate clear coat step so it's pretty fancy. This car doesn't have many chips but I noticed one today on the right front fender.
Once I got the new filter on the pan, I reinstalled the pan and put the new drain plug in it. Now what to do about refilling...
Oh, this pump should work. Wait, it actually not only has the perfect length tube, but even threads on to the trans fluid container?? Hell yeah! I was able to jam the end into the fill hole. Then I pumped 4 quarts into the transmission and started the engine. The FSM said somewhere in the 85-122F range is correct for filling, which is like filling a differential (fill until it comes out). I used my new IR thermometer on the pan to make sure I was at least in the mid 80s. Then I pumped the 5th quart in. It took some portion of the 6th (and last quart I had) before it was full. Yes, this process is a pain and dangerous as I am laying under hot exhaust while the car idles. Screwing the fill plug back in was interesting but I got it done.
Road test results?
Actually it shifts even smoother than before, not unlike a new transmission. The lockup shudder is still there but maybe not as bad. I did not get on the highway to really test it. I wish I could have flushed all the old crap out of there.
I guess the next step is do another 5 quart change, leaving the new filter in place. That should give me 75%+ new fluid. I could even do it again in another couple of months. But I think with the next change, I will add the Lubegard additive.
EDIT: The FSM says the total fluid capacity is 9.4 quarts. Say I added 5.5. That means I actually changed 58.5% of the fluid. Also this transmission was made in France.
First, I had to lift the car up in the air and get it fairly level for filling. Before I drained a drop of fluid, I made sure I could loosen the fill plug in the trans case. By the way, the internet said the drain plug would be a T-47 and the fill would be a T-45. Both plugs that came with the new filter were T-45. And so were the ones on the car. Ok that's fine.
I was able to just barely jam my 3/8" ratchet with T-45 into place. I had to squish the heat shielding but I just got it to fit. It loosened without too much effort.
With that done, I removed the drain plug and witnessed the glory of the transmission pan drain plug. When that was done, I put it back finger tight and buzzed all the 10mm pan bolts off with my Ryobi impact, like I did with the truck. Makes that super easy. I did have to use a universal on one bolt and a box wrench on another. I took this opportunity to try out my Harbor Freight ratcheting wrenches, which worked great.
Remove the pan. This is what you will see. Here is the fill plug by the way. Once the pan was down, I pulled the filter. It is held in place similar to the 700R4/4L60-E with no retainers. To remove the old seal, just a little prying with a flat screwdriver does the trick. Oh, I should probably mention: the old fluid looked like engine oil. It did not smell burnt but didn't smell new, either. Again, it resembled engine oil in color. It was the correct viscosity for transmission fluid. It was due for sure.
Then I cleaned the pan and magnet which didn't have too much on it. The gasket is the reusable type (metal with an inner perimeter seal) but it looked a little tired to me so I made a trip up to Herb Chambers in Warwick and got a new one for $14.xx. While I was there I picked up some touch up paint which was like $22.50. It has a base and a separate clear coat step so it's pretty fancy. This car doesn't have many chips but I noticed one today on the right front fender.
Once I got the new filter on the pan, I reinstalled the pan and put the new drain plug in it. Now what to do about refilling...
Oh, this pump should work. Wait, it actually not only has the perfect length tube, but even threads on to the trans fluid container?? Hell yeah! I was able to jam the end into the fill hole. Then I pumped 4 quarts into the transmission and started the engine. The FSM said somewhere in the 85-122F range is correct for filling, which is like filling a differential (fill until it comes out). I used my new IR thermometer on the pan to make sure I was at least in the mid 80s. Then I pumped the 5th quart in. It took some portion of the 6th (and last quart I had) before it was full. Yes, this process is a pain and dangerous as I am laying under hot exhaust while the car idles. Screwing the fill plug back in was interesting but I got it done.
Road test results?
Actually it shifts even smoother than before, not unlike a new transmission. The lockup shudder is still there but maybe not as bad. I did not get on the highway to really test it. I wish I could have flushed all the old crap out of there.
I guess the next step is do another 5 quart change, leaving the new filter in place. That should give me 75%+ new fluid. I could even do it again in another couple of months. But I think with the next change, I will add the Lubegard additive.
EDIT: The FSM says the total fluid capacity is 9.4 quarts. Say I added 5.5. That means I actually changed 58.5% of the fluid. Also this transmission was made in France.