2014 E63S: Intercooler pump replacement

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kevm14
Posts: 15241
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:28 pm

2014 E63S: Intercooler pump replacement

Post by kevm14 »

About 99k.

Remove main lower engine cover, then remove the front lower cover. The pump is right there. Unplugging it is easy. But the inlet and outlet hose are held on by the typical constant pressure clamp. I have the cable operated tool to loosen them but access was extremely tight. In order to facilitate access to the hose clamps I removed the bracket/clamp bolt so I could manipulate the pump a bit. Still, it was tricky to loosen the clamps. The other problem was the nipples on the pump are close to 2" long for some unknown reason. It was difficult to slide the clamp that far off given the cramped quarters and the fact that the hoses have an elbow not far after the inlet/outlet. Once I got through that, the remaining difficult part was just sliding the hoses off the nipples. This pump appeared to be original so the hoses were pretty stuck on the nipples and it just took a lot of pulling and twisting. I was also afraid I was going to stress the hoses or a T that I saw in the loop.

New pump. 2023 production. It was a reman (from the dealer).
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The base E63 gets the same Bosch 010 pump that was the revised pump the E55 got (which mine actually had when I bought it). But the S model gets this higher flow Pierburg.

Installation was mostly much easier. I was dreading hose installation since removal was so hard and I just couldn't get my hand up there to push the hoses on very effectively. The trick I decided on was to lightly lube up the inlet and outlet nipples with silicone dielectric grease. This worked really well. The hoses slid on fairly effortlessly. Getting the hose clamps in position was a bit tricky but not too bad. The remaining part I struggled with was the retaining bolt for the bracket/clamp. I found that if the bolt was a bit longer this would have probably made the job a lot easier. As it was, you had to sort of compress the rubber on the bracket/clamp while simultaneously starting the bolt and the bolt access was not great. Eventually I got it.

The moral is, I don't want to be replacing this pump regularly. I did modify the relay for the pump to be always on but I figure I should get years of service out of it anyway. The original pump still worked and it's not fully conclusive how much better this one works. My test after seemed good at least.

Oh, for filling I decided to vacuum fill. Given that the small reservoir (these get an isolated loop for the intercooler unlike, uh, pre-facelift E63s or possibly just the non-S models?) is the highest point I think I could have just filled it up. But I did the vacuum fill. Then I ran out of coolant. Had to run to O'Riellys for more G48. I should actually check the level.
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kevm14
Posts: 15241
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:28 pm

Re: 2014 E63S: Intercooler pump replacement

Post by kevm14 »

kevm14 wrote: Sat Jun 03, 2023 6:43 am The moral is, I don't want to be replacing this pump regularly. I did modify the relay for the pump to be always on but I figure I should get years of service out of it anyway. The original pump still worked and it's not fully conclusive how much better this one works. My test after seemed good at least.
No the pump didn't fail. I just decided I didn't like having it run all the time. One side effect is that when the car wakes up when you open a door, after my mod, it would run the pump. This seems wasteful. So I redid the wiring to add an inline switch. There were two ways for me to originally perform the mod.

Option 1: cut relay ground wire going TO relay (relay control side). Connect wire from relay directly to chassis ground. Now when there is 12V available at the relay (i.e. when the car wakes up, not just ignition on or engine run), the pump would run. This is what I did and I decided I didn't like it. The code it set was for open circuit, naturally, since the ground switched side of the relay circuit never saw a load.

Option 2: Don't cut the wire but simply splice in a wire and pull down that computer controlled ground to chassis ground. This would set a short to ground code.

In order to install an inline switch, and in order to achieve always on or "auto" (computer controlled), I had to rewire to option 2, and then add the switch inline to my chassis ground. All I had to do was reconnect the cut wire to my previous joint which turned it into option 2. Then just cut the new wire I had installed a year ago and connect a simple on/off switch. So that's what I did. I installed the water proof switch cover and then zip-tied the switch to one of the large ground cables so it wouldn't just flop around. One nice thing about hooking it up this way is if the switch fails somehow, the system will just fail open which means auto/ECU controlled pump.
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I can verify that the forced on mode works as before. With the switch in the off position, I will need to drive the car to confirm that it works as factory controlled. Mostly I'd like look at the intake air temps and observe that it stops going up at 113F or whatever the number is.

I figure I will leave the switch off most of the time and perhaps in warmer weather or when I do driving other than my commute I can force it on. And now that I can turn the mod on and off (which requires opening the hood), I could observe temps with the switch on and off and see what it even really buys me. I've been curious about this.

The pro move would be to install a remote controlled switch so I can control it from inside the car. This is more effort than I care to expend.
kevm14
Posts: 15241
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:28 pm

Re: 2014 E63S: Intercooler pump replacement

Post by kevm14 »

kevm14 wrote: Sat Apr 20, 2024 9:54 am I can verify that the forced on mode works as before. With the switch in the off position, I will need to drive the car to confirm that it works as factory controlled. Mostly I'd like look at the intake air temps and observe that it stops going up at 113F or whatever the number is.
I did that yesterday. It all works as designed. Turns on at 113F intake temp and shuts off at something like 94F. The pump doesn't have to run that much under normal circumstances which again is another reason I'm glad I installed the switch. As long as there is airflow over the front heat exchanger, the temps drop pretty fast.

I think in warmer weather it will be interesting to experiment. On the other hand, warmer weather will just naturally place the intake air temps closer to 113F and the pump will run more frequently, per demand.

The theory of benefit is when the pump runs all the time, it keeps the intake air temps as close to ambient as possible giving them a head start in the event of a "wide open throttle event." I suppose the other theory is with cooler intake air temps, you'll have moar spark advance but I don't know what the threshold is for actual retard. Based on reading threads previously, people thought that in a WOT situation, when the intake air temp is climbing rapidly, by the time the pump switches on at 113F, intake temps climb well beyond that. I guess the question is, how far, and what is the actual situation? I'm not exactly doing standing mile runs with this car. You can't realistically floor it for more than 10 seconds (if rolling) or maybe 15 (if stopped) before you run out of road conditions. C&D says a 2014 E63S wagon did 0-130 in 13.4 seconds. So even 15 seconds is pushing it...
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