Repair-It

I considered posting this in part of the 145k service posting in powertrain, but that hardly seemed appropriate. Since the moderators of this forum didn't see fit to include a towing/hauling category, or an RV-flat-towing category, here's the post. I need to come up with an appropriate tow bar setup for the new-to-me 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2. My previous 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ had two somewhat-modified 2" square receiver tubes that I bolted to the front frame horns and welded a cross-bar angle iron to.

The cheapest factory-made, new tow base plates I can find are the Curt 70101 base plates, $339 on Amazon:
https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlibrar ... 01_INS.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HK ... 0DER&psc=1

I believe they are the same hardware as the name-brand Blue Ox BX1128. There's a set available used in Troy, NY, seller is asking $250 with hardware (looks like Blue Ox didn't include the loop safety cables that the Curt kit includes, but does include other safety cables) . I wonder if the facebook guy will ship them for me.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... b2ee6d9f0d

For either/both of those, they're not compatible with my old Roadmaster Stowmaster 5k setup from the WJ.
https://www.roadmasterinc.com/stowmaster-tow-bars/

I'll have to try to find a later model Blue Ox/Curt towbar, and it would be nice to have one that hangs on the back of the RV instead of the fold-up and stay on the Jeep type I have now.

So I think I'm out at least $200 for the baseplates and $200-400 for a used Blue Ox tow bar. Ouch. I was hoping to do most of that on the cheap, and reuse the Roadmaster tow bar, but I'm not sure I want to put the time/effort into fabricating "crappy" 2" box tube attachment points again, and I think adapting between Curt/Blue Ox attachment and old-school Roadmaster crossbar attachment would suck. I was hoping to invest in an "invisible" brake setup for the new Grand Cherokee since I don't like putting in and removing the on-the-floor brake unit I have, but I guess I'll keep using that if I have to invest $600-1000 in base plates and a new tow bar.

I think Chassis/Brakes?

Troy NY guy took the $200 offer for Blue Ox baseplates for the WK2. The most promising BlueOx 10k lb rated tow bar was a set in North Smithfield RI for $175. I’ll have to see if I can get that one.

North Smithfield one sold. Here's I think the next-best candidate at the moment:
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/pts/d ... 70828.html

I'm thinking about getting one of these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar/etrailer/e84ZR.html

Ordered the etrailer tow bar. Hopefully it's halfway decent, rated for 10.5k lbs and "lifetime warrantied" by etrailer, so I shouldn't have to replace it regardless what future tow vehicles or RV setups I have.

I had also ordered a Curt tail light kit:
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/58907

Hopefully it works as-advertised out-of-the-box (the WJ one from Curt also seemed OK - taillights were always kinda on the dim side, probably because of weak RV trailer wiring and diodes for the bulbs). I'm optimistic that the LED lights on the WK2 will work better.

So I think, reusing the now-ancient Brake Buddy that I have, I now have all equipment required to tow the WK2. Even with some used parts, it was still like $1150 to set it up (including tow bar), reusing my brake setup. Sheesh.

Installed all of the pieces over the course of evenings this week. Successfully test-towed (toad) last night and made a successful run to FItchburg this morning. All seems OK so-far.

Tailights are conventional turn/brake bulbs, only the marker lamps are LED.