Repair-It

Same boot location as my S550, different leak spot on the boot. Actually what I learned last time is that these take the same boot.

EPC says the repair kit is A2213300285.

Yeah that kit isn't available. I could buy another Febi Bilstein from FCP euro I guess - around $33. Same exact kit as my S550.

Removal looks more annoying because of the strut design of the front suspension perhaps. It wants me to remove both lower control arms from the knuckle so that the knuckle can be pulled out enough to get the axle out. I might try doing less invasive things first knowing I may have to follow the instructions. Replacement of the boot itself is probably the same as it was on my S550 so I already know how to do this. I will just need to make sure I burp the air out of the boot before clamping.

There was also this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 84&jsn=323

But ordered from FCP.

Torque specs I need:

Axle bolt
160 Nm 118 lb-ft
Back off
120 Nm 88.5 lb-ft
90 degrees

Strut bolts/nuts
120 Nm 88.5 lb-ft
90 degrees

Tie rod to steering knuckle
50 Nm 37 lb-ft
90 degrees

Took care of this Saturday morning. Took most of the morning but mostly it was easy work. Doing this axle boot in my S550 prepared me for the boot replacement itself (100% identical process) but R&Ring the axle was different.

Here are the main highlights:
- WIS says to disconnect both lower control arms at the knuckle. I thought this was a little silly. The forum says to remove the two strut to knuckle bolts and separate that way but I wasn't sure if I wanted to disturb the alignment. I first popped the outer tie rod out but this did not create enough articulation in the knuckle to get the axle out of the hub (not even close, unlike in the S550 where it was enough). Ended up removing the strut bolts and separating the strut from the knuckle. The only remaining gotcha is to make sure to disconnect the various things from their various mounting channels or else the weight of the knuckle will pull on things that shouldn't be pulled on. This includes the brake hose, wheel speed sensor and brake pad wear sensor wiring. Once I did all of that I was able to articulate the knuckle enough to push the axle right out of the hub. It was not stuck at all.

- This is technically the same process as the S550 but the next part is to pull the inner axle shaft from the front diff. It's just a clip type fit so kind of hammer out/in but I don't have the right slide hammer adapter. I tried various pry bar things from the bottom (which did work on the S550) but nothing was working for this job. If I could have pried around 180 degrees apart on the axle that may have worked but I think I was putting too much force on one side of the axle so it would bind up in the diff rather than slide out. What ended up working was precariously inserting a framing crow bar nail puller thing into the subframe area where the axle is, getting the 90 degree crowbar behind the inner CV housing, and using it as a hammer. This actually worked and the axle come out of the diff. More of a struggle than the S550 but same design/process.

- The CV bearing thingy that's pressed onto the axle spline fought me more than the S550 but it's the same thing. Snap ring, use a drift and hammer to remove.

- The condition of everything seemed satisfactory. I didn't see any wear from excessively contaminated grease and there was still grease in it. The boot on the small end was almost completely torn circumferentially so, people, INSPECT YOUR SHIT. This saved my axle (just as it did on my S550). Which is why this is only a $34 repair.

- I used what I learned on the S550 to burp more air from the CV boot before clamping which keeps the boot accordion in the right shape.

- Reinstallation is similar to removal. Just sort of manhandle the axle into the diff. Pushing, twisting, rocking side to side. Eventually it clicks/clunks into place. This is very standard.

- After putting just the bolts through the strut mount, I tested the assembly to see if there is "adjustable camber." There was. The most at-rest position happened to be the least amount of camber (this side has too much negative camber) but I don't know what position it was in before this job. In theory I could die grind the strut holes a bit to get a little more out of it but I did not attempt this.

- Watch out for the ride height sensor arm. It (twice) got turned around the wrong way and bound up. Had to disconnect the strut to lower everything enough to flip the bell crank around the right way on the sensor.

- Shock definitely is original and starting to seep. I think this will be on the list for next year, which was my general plan anyway.

- Everything is an angle torque and annoying. I was mostly able to achieve this except for the axle which, like my S550, felt more than tight enough at the 45-60 degree angle, rather than the 90 specified. I thought I was going to break my breaker bar or socket.

Overall nothing too difficult and I drove it for 3 hours yesterday with 5 occupants and nothing fell off, so that was a success.