Repair-It

Figured I'd start a new thread since they're all blending together and hard to follow.

Summary - bought the car w/ no cat. Since I saw the AMG labeling on the muffler and tail pipes, I assumed the rest of the cat back system was stock and didn't inspect much further. There was an oval resonater near the engine end of the exhaust that was cat-shaped, but I was excited that the car was clean otherwise so I kinda stopped looking further. That is a resonator now that I can see through it.

The exhaust has two after market resonaters in it that were not welded in well, and had crappy carbon steel pipes connecting them to the rest of the system. There is a rusted out hole in the front pipe weld to the rear resonator - you had noted that you heard exhaust under the car; that would be where.

The other somewhat shocking find was the that front of the driveshaft to the rear axle at the PTO on the tranmission had a bolt missing and the other 5 were looser-than-finger-tight. Some grease had flung out of the driveshaft CV joint. "Conveniently" I have the entire exhaust system out of the car to weld repair it.

PN's for the driveshaft bolts would be appreciated, I'm going to see if I can find Dorman's or similar.

I also have the downpipe loose, but can't see a good removal path up or down and the cat will be even harder to maneuver. Do you know if they recommmed removing the radiator fans or air conditioning compressor to make a removal path?

Front bolts appear to be as a pair mounted on a plate?
A2464110200 x 3 I assume. $17.69 x 3.

Rear giubo is A2464110015. $117.37 at dealer.

Looks like they want you to pull the high pressure A/C line at the compressor. Maybe you can flex it.

Capacity of the A/C is 670 grams of 134a. That should probably be a on a label anyway.

Rear exhaust assembly: https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... c3VsdHM%3D

Under $1400. What a deal.

Prop shaft instructions

I think these should work. 12.9 is I think the metric equivalent of ASTM A574's. Based on the picture and hydrogen embrittlement concerns I would hope these are not zinc plated as the erroneous listing suggests. They appear to be black oxide coated.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M8 ... section-rr

But there's only 2-bags of 2 in stock at Waterford CT.

I'll check both of the hardware stores in town tomorrow - I don't think I'd trust "Everbilt" even as much as the somewhat hardware store standard of Hillman.

The instructions say to pull the fan assembly and the AC line. And then the converter goes down. I can at least pull the fan since that doesn't seem too bad and see if clearance gets better.

Took stopping at 3 hardware stores. Two had the "standard" Hillman assortment that only had M8-1.25 SHCS's in up to 40 mm length (I needed 45 mm long). The third, Ace in East Lyme had an expanded Hillman assortment and had 45, 50, and 60mm.

Bought 7 just in case I somehow lose one.

5 are labeled "TVS" and 2 are "FKE". I would've gotten all FKE's since the workmanship/finish seems a little better, but they only had 2 of them. Googling those manufacturers says one's in India (TVS) and one's in Taiwan (FKE). Hopefully all of them pass the standard quality control tests for strength for the 12.9 spec.

I assume you have all three load plates still? Or washer plates. Whatever we think they are.

Yeah - all plates still accounted for.

Had to pull the air conditioning compressor - would be easier to pull the line but I’d rather not recover and reinstall refrigerant. Had to pull the serpentine belt to get the compressor loose. Putting the belt back on is the smallest clearance and toughest belt install I’ve seen, but it’s tired so I should change anyhow. Want to pull the belt r&r instructions whenever you have the other computer on again?

Looks like I may have to get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Bonbo-Serpentine ... 106&sr=8-1

https://www.glaowners.com/threads/final ... 494/page-2

And maybe access through the wheel well isn't too bad.