Maxima clutch
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 5:59 am
I was road testing the car after my brake job and initial results were quite satisfying. I decided to get on the highway to build up enough speed to get the brakes warm, to bed them properly. At the top of the ramp, I went to shift into 5th and it ground. Then I pushed in the clutch again and realized it wasn't disengaging. It felt really strange, like high effort, but wouldn't disengage. Crap. I think that means the throw-out bearing has failed.
I entered a part of a highway that is actually a connector so traffic was light. I had time to think this through. I would have to drive home by clutchless rev-matching my shifts. And any lights would require cranking the car in 1st gear to get rolling, which I wasn't looking forward to.
I almost never shift without the clutch but fortunately I know how, and that worked out alright. But then I came to a light. I popped the car out of gear and shut the engine off, then put it back in 1st. When the light turned green, I cranked the engine over, which lurched the car forward awkwardly. Then I was idling in 1st creeping along.
Fortunately that was the only light I had to stop at. The other lights I timed well by slowing down (or speeding up to make the green).
So this car will sit until I decide how to proceed. Naturally I just did brakes and an oil change. My first thought was "I wish I bought that clean-ass Olds."
Prices aren't too bad. Rockauto's most expensive clutch kit is a Valeo (good brand) for $153.79.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1211410
Comes with friction disc, pressure plate, what looks like a pilot bushing, some lube, an alignment tool and I guess the throw-out bearing.
The cheapest kit is a Luk brand for $82.79. Either way it's a comfortable ballpark. Though I should probably think about the flywheel. And rear main.
A Luk flywheel (only one available) is $75.79.
A rear main is around $20-$30.
But I'm more concerned with actually how to accomplish the job. I've never done a clutch in a FWD car, and this clutch was on seriously borrowed time. I can't be mad at the car for the brakes or the clutch because there's been clear evidence for years.
I'll take a look at my FSM.
I entered a part of a highway that is actually a connector so traffic was light. I had time to think this through. I would have to drive home by clutchless rev-matching my shifts. And any lights would require cranking the car in 1st gear to get rolling, which I wasn't looking forward to.
I almost never shift without the clutch but fortunately I know how, and that worked out alright. But then I came to a light. I popped the car out of gear and shut the engine off, then put it back in 1st. When the light turned green, I cranked the engine over, which lurched the car forward awkwardly. Then I was idling in 1st creeping along.
Fortunately that was the only light I had to stop at. The other lights I timed well by slowing down (or speeding up to make the green).
So this car will sit until I decide how to proceed. Naturally I just did brakes and an oil change. My first thought was "I wish I bought that clean-ass Olds."
Prices aren't too bad. Rockauto's most expensive clutch kit is a Valeo (good brand) for $153.79.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1211410
Comes with friction disc, pressure plate, what looks like a pilot bushing, some lube, an alignment tool and I guess the throw-out bearing.
The cheapest kit is a Luk brand for $82.79. Either way it's a comfortable ballpark. Though I should probably think about the flywheel. And rear main.
A Luk flywheel (only one available) is $75.79.
A rear main is around $20-$30.
But I'm more concerned with actually how to accomplish the job. I've never done a clutch in a FWD car, and this clutch was on seriously borrowed time. I can't be mad at the car for the brakes or the clutch because there's been clear evidence for years.
I'll take a look at my FSM.