Intake mods on the LT1s consist of a few steps:
- Remove "home plate" and insert an object in the now open hole in the intake boot. A long time ago someone figured out a hockey puck is a perfect fit. Sadly Walmart does not sell hockey pucks. Home plate is just a Helmholtz resonator (air does not flow through it) so I'm not sure performance is impacted. It probably does absorb some frequencies. And home plate covers the engine which is either good or bad depending on how you think a bare LT1 looks. Serviceability improves without it.
- Replace middle resonator. Commonly people replace this with two 45 degree 3" street elbows, with a short length of pipe as a coupler. Add a rubber coupler to connect that to the MAF. Clean the MAF while in there...
- Remove air box and "swiss cheese" it. I drilled many holes, including some big ones that help suck air from the fender area. I also trimmed down the horn as it is a little restrictive.
No after shot because my phone died.
Took for a ride. It has that classic LT1 intake honk at heavy throttle. It sounds great. Not sure I notice a power difference. I think the stock exhaust is more restrictive than the intake.
96 Roadmaster PVC air intake
96 Roadmaster PVC air intake
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Re: 96 Roadmaster PVC air intake
I may remove the home plate bracketry also.
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Re: 96 Roadmaster PVC air intake
That swiss cheese thing doesn't sound like a great idea. Now you are sucking in hot under the hood air?
Re: 96 Roadmaster PVC air intake
The air for the short intake horn came generally from around the headlight. That same air would be ingested under the air box. Plus I opened the side where it pulls from the fender area. People have reported that while it may heat up in traffic (any intake will), it cools down at the intake temp sensor very quickly once moving.
And of course it sounds sweet. And flows better.
And of course it sounds sweet. And flows better.