He got back to me. Not great news.
"The handle is 1691832. The number on the frame is gone."
Handle:
https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplic ... zer-blade/
I do not see my machine there or anything remotely related.
Garden tractor acquisition
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
I know Bill will be skeptical so here is the proof (which also helps convince me).
Here is the handle that the guy said his is and the picture in his ad looks the same:
https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplic ... up-984065/
And here is the handle that the eBay guy said I probably need:
https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplic ... up-983597/
You can see that they are similar but definitely not the same. A main difference is a horizontal shaft on the first one. It's made for a different machine series obviously.
All that said, I did also go out and measure the width across the front and rear tires just to elaborate on Bill's point about more width making it easier to maneuver.
The front tires are around 33" across and the rear around 36". So I would tend to agree that a 42" blower would give me a little margin so I'm not trying to back down a path perfectly. I think this is a good point and one worth considering. I do think bigger snowfalls will prove that 12.5 hp isn't enough to really blow 42" and I do know that going slower results in throwing snow a shorter distance with a single stage, which will also result in the machine trying to re-blow snow which also strains the engine. But if we're talking blizzard conditions, I will admit I don't really need to optimize my setup for that. For a typical snow fall, it may work just fine, and that's kind of the point I guess.
I will add some more Craigslist searches with new part numbers. Unfortunately the one in PA won't work. The hitch frame is 99% sure to be incorrect for my machine, given the lever difference.
Here is the handle that the guy said his is and the picture in his ad looks the same:
https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplic ... up-984065/
And here is the handle that the eBay guy said I probably need:
https://www.partstree.com/parts/simplic ... up-983597/
You can see that they are similar but definitely not the same. A main difference is a horizontal shaft on the first one. It's made for a different machine series obviously.
All that said, I did also go out and measure the width across the front and rear tires just to elaborate on Bill's point about more width making it easier to maneuver.
The front tires are around 33" across and the rear around 36". So I would tend to agree that a 42" blower would give me a little margin so I'm not trying to back down a path perfectly. I think this is a good point and one worth considering. I do think bigger snowfalls will prove that 12.5 hp isn't enough to really blow 42" and I do know that going slower results in throwing snow a shorter distance with a single stage, which will also result in the machine trying to re-blow snow which also strains the engine. But if we're talking blizzard conditions, I will admit I don't really need to optimize my setup for that. For a typical snow fall, it may work just fine, and that's kind of the point I guess.
I will add some more Craigslist searches with new part numbers. Unfortunately the one in PA won't work. The hitch frame is 99% sure to be incorrect for my machine, given the lever difference.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjzEO3bfEi0
Video of a 4212 with a 36" blower. He goes over the mounting and stuff. Bill would have to admit that this is definitely more clunky than his fancier tractor, in pretty much every way. No hydro lift so there's all this handle and spring nonsense. No shaft drive so the belt is all flopping around (adjustments, slipping). No electric PTO so there's an engagement linkage. And no electric chute turning so there's a handle just floating to turn, which takes my right hand off the hydro lever, steering wheel or lift lever. No foot controls on my machine (or power steering). Left hand does steering wheel or PTO. Assuming the PTO stays engaged, then the left hand is for steering, while the right hand alternates between hydro and blower lift. Assuming also that a single left hand is enough for most steering tasks. I usually need two hands when lawn mowing...
With an older, simpler, lighter machine, there is actually additional complexity in the accessories. Ergonomics matter. And after all of that, I will have less traction and less engine HP which are pretty much the two critical things to actually be able to snow blow, and I say that because my walk-behind is both HP and traction limited. Just worth pointing out. That's why I say one experience does not directly translate to another. I also admit that it only needs to be better than my walk-behind. And I guess "better" means I don't constantly get stuck, or struggle with maneuvering/turning, or run out of HP in terms of going the speed I really want to in order to keep the single stage chute packed for longest throwing distance.
I made the analogy that it's probably like comparing an S-10 to a 3/4 ton truck for snow plowing. Seems about the same but in practice the 3/4 ton truck is way more capable. This uncertainty is why I need to either get a good deal on everything I need or otherwise be sure something far away is pretty complete. Not going to drive to PA for a blower, then go track down a hitch frame somewhere else. Then there's the lift lever. And I already have to figure out wheel weights separately. A whole machine with everything might make sense but what are the chances I'll find a complete machine with full snow blower stuff, with maybe a blown engine or trans? Not really interested in buying a fully working setup for who knows what ($800? more?), either. Not that those are plentiful, either.
Actually, the REAL alternative is an upgraded walk-behind. A wider swath, a joystick for chute control, with a bigger engine on a heavier chassis may actually be what I really need. That would be much easier to procure. Just a matter of cost, or buying something that needs a repair. Benefits there are a single machine for snow removal, and I would still need to use a walk-behind with the tractor blower for paths and digging my tractor out from behind my house. Also, it would keep wear and tear off of my tractor.
Video of a 4212 with a 36" blower. He goes over the mounting and stuff. Bill would have to admit that this is definitely more clunky than his fancier tractor, in pretty much every way. No hydro lift so there's all this handle and spring nonsense. No shaft drive so the belt is all flopping around (adjustments, slipping). No electric PTO so there's an engagement linkage. And no electric chute turning so there's a handle just floating to turn, which takes my right hand off the hydro lever, steering wheel or lift lever. No foot controls on my machine (or power steering). Left hand does steering wheel or PTO. Assuming the PTO stays engaged, then the left hand is for steering, while the right hand alternates between hydro and blower lift. Assuming also that a single left hand is enough for most steering tasks. I usually need two hands when lawn mowing...
With an older, simpler, lighter machine, there is actually additional complexity in the accessories. Ergonomics matter. And after all of that, I will have less traction and less engine HP which are pretty much the two critical things to actually be able to snow blow, and I say that because my walk-behind is both HP and traction limited. Just worth pointing out. That's why I say one experience does not directly translate to another. I also admit that it only needs to be better than my walk-behind. And I guess "better" means I don't constantly get stuck, or struggle with maneuvering/turning, or run out of HP in terms of going the speed I really want to in order to keep the single stage chute packed for longest throwing distance.
I made the analogy that it's probably like comparing an S-10 to a 3/4 ton truck for snow plowing. Seems about the same but in practice the 3/4 ton truck is way more capable. This uncertainty is why I need to either get a good deal on everything I need or otherwise be sure something far away is pretty complete. Not going to drive to PA for a blower, then go track down a hitch frame somewhere else. Then there's the lift lever. And I already have to figure out wheel weights separately. A whole machine with everything might make sense but what are the chances I'll find a complete machine with full snow blower stuff, with maybe a blown engine or trans? Not really interested in buying a fully working setup for who knows what ($800? more?), either. Not that those are plentiful, either.
Actually, the REAL alternative is an upgraded walk-behind. A wider swath, a joystick for chute control, with a bigger engine on a heavier chassis may actually be what I really need. That would be much easier to procure. Just a matter of cost, or buying something that needs a repair. Benefits there are a single machine for snow removal, and I would still need to use a walk-behind with the tractor blower for paths and digging my tractor out from behind my house. Also, it would keep wear and tear off of my tractor.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Stalled it twice driving into a big, wet leaf pile (not recommended). Heard it hit WOT on the governor. I think I could definitely stall it with the snow blower. Though unlike smaller engines, it slowly bogged down rather than sharply stop.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Not sure if this helps at all. This is a lower grade than yours, with the 12 HP and 42 inch thrower. Seems to work pretty good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7QeVjG7big
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7QeVjG7big
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
It's actually a higher grade - the famous Sovereign line. He claims around 700 lbs without attachments.
I admit that 12 hp is pretty effective though it's probably at wide open throttle the entire time you hear it under load, and he's not moving very fast. But it is throwing the snow. I believe the older engines, unlike car engines from the same time, actually had more power than their rating compared to the way new engines are rated. One example is that they were perhaps rated at the PTO, which would already account for some driveline loss.
And I saw this comment:
I admit that 12 hp is pretty effective though it's probably at wide open throttle the entire time you hear it under load, and he's not moving very fast. But it is throwing the snow. I believe the older engines, unlike car engines from the same time, actually had more power than their rating compared to the way new engines are rated. One example is that they were perhaps rated at the PTO, which would already account for some driveline loss.
And I saw this comment:
I assume that's the same engine as mine. So that's encouraging.ive got the 12 and a half twin cylinder briggs on my snapper that thing eats up the snow as well
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
This is from the same era as my machine, but I believe a garden tractor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HreJK3-ckI
7117. Possibly a big single cylinder, not sure (EDIT: actually it is a 17 hp Kohler twin). But notice the hydraulic blower lift. That is sweet. I don't know if he was blowing the exact same amount of snow but I submit that 17 hp is more in the range of what you'd really want for a 42" blower, as this one doesn't even sound like he has it at full speed. I believe the 7100 series is part of the Sovereign lineage.
I also admit that part of me is just curious to see how mine does, regardless of any logical argument or analysis that I can do from behind the keyboard. Problem is, it is going to take a lot of effort to put together a full kit and I don't see making this winter. I do see being able to upgrade my walk-behind, basically any time I want. Which I guess I could just do, then reevaluate the tractor situation. Honestly, if I am happy with a ~32" walk behind, then I don't see why I would bother with the tractor stuff. I could, however, make an argument that if I did have all the tractor snow blower stuff, I'd rather keep my smaller and more nimble 26" walk behind for the remainder of the work (paths, front walk, around the cars perhaps, etc.). Meh.
I will also add that when I did the leaves yesterday (well, some of them), it cranked quite a bit before firing. I'd actually theorize that is because it is summer gas from July when in colder weather the winter blend is better for older engines like this. Wonder how it would start at 20F...might need to switch to 5W-30 if I really use it in the winter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HreJK3-ckI
7117. Possibly a big single cylinder, not sure (EDIT: actually it is a 17 hp Kohler twin). But notice the hydraulic blower lift. That is sweet. I don't know if he was blowing the exact same amount of snow but I submit that 17 hp is more in the range of what you'd really want for a 42" blower, as this one doesn't even sound like he has it at full speed. I believe the 7100 series is part of the Sovereign lineage.
I also admit that part of me is just curious to see how mine does, regardless of any logical argument or analysis that I can do from behind the keyboard. Problem is, it is going to take a lot of effort to put together a full kit and I don't see making this winter. I do see being able to upgrade my walk-behind, basically any time I want. Which I guess I could just do, then reevaluate the tractor situation. Honestly, if I am happy with a ~32" walk behind, then I don't see why I would bother with the tractor stuff. I could, however, make an argument that if I did have all the tractor snow blower stuff, I'd rather keep my smaller and more nimble 26" walk behind for the remainder of the work (paths, front walk, around the cars perhaps, etc.). Meh.
I will also add that when I did the leaves yesterday (well, some of them), it cranked quite a bit before firing. I'd actually theorize that is because it is summer gas from July when in colder weather the winter blend is better for older engines like this. Wonder how it would start at 20F...might need to switch to 5W-30 if I really use it in the winter.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Another thing. Let me elaborate on the leaf stuff.
I spent like an hour leaf blowing the driveway. The bottom layer was wet and it was windy. Not the best conditions. But really my hand held blower is grossly undersized. I really need a walk behind ~8hp blower. That said, between blowing and raking I had made quite the pile. It was dark and I didn't feel like working any more but I wanted to see how the tractor would do, as far as sucking them up into the bags.
That's the pile I drove it into. I had to go super slow to keep from clogging. And I plowed into the pile initially and stalled it. I don't think it was fully warmed up.
One thing that was interesting was I tried pulling the chute off the turbo and just let the turbo spray behind me, thinking I could at least use that to move the leaf pile to the woods. Well the odd thing is, that actually clogged several times with no chute on it. Which I guess means the clogging actually happens in the turbo first, not the chute. Maybe it needs a new fan (could be chewed up and not moving quite as much air as it could be). Or maybe I was just asking way too much of it. I just didn't expect the turbo itself to clog.
Another observation I made was traction. If I didn't make calm, deliberate steering and speed changes, I had traction issues. When I tried to kind speed around and turn, I had both forward/backward slippage and plenty of steering slip. Kind of gave me a bad taste as far as snow maneuverability, but I don't know if that translates. Turning with the blower lifted will have more traction since all of that weight will be over the front axle. And for the rear, I'd have weights and those rubber "chains."
FWIW, the correct way to deal with a big leaf pile is still to blow/rake them onto a big tarp and drag that to the woods or whatever. Mowing unblown/unraked leaves works OK but fills the bags quickly, but may still be better than trying to leaf blow and tarp - I will bag my side yard leaves which are mostly as they fell. But once you have a pile, you kind of have no choice (especially on a driveway). I have never operated my mower in side discharge mode so I have no experience doing the drive-in-circles thing (I assume the tarp is part of that equation).
I spent like an hour leaf blowing the driveway. The bottom layer was wet and it was windy. Not the best conditions. But really my hand held blower is grossly undersized. I really need a walk behind ~8hp blower. That said, between blowing and raking I had made quite the pile. It was dark and I didn't feel like working any more but I wanted to see how the tractor would do, as far as sucking them up into the bags.
That's the pile I drove it into. I had to go super slow to keep from clogging. And I plowed into the pile initially and stalled it. I don't think it was fully warmed up.
One thing that was interesting was I tried pulling the chute off the turbo and just let the turbo spray behind me, thinking I could at least use that to move the leaf pile to the woods. Well the odd thing is, that actually clogged several times with no chute on it. Which I guess means the clogging actually happens in the turbo first, not the chute. Maybe it needs a new fan (could be chewed up and not moving quite as much air as it could be). Or maybe I was just asking way too much of it. I just didn't expect the turbo itself to clog.
Another observation I made was traction. If I didn't make calm, deliberate steering and speed changes, I had traction issues. When I tried to kind speed around and turn, I had both forward/backward slippage and plenty of steering slip. Kind of gave me a bad taste as far as snow maneuverability, but I don't know if that translates. Turning with the blower lifted will have more traction since all of that weight will be over the front axle. And for the rear, I'd have weights and those rubber "chains."
FWIW, the correct way to deal with a big leaf pile is still to blow/rake them onto a big tarp and drag that to the woods or whatever. Mowing unblown/unraked leaves works OK but fills the bags quickly, but may still be better than trying to leaf blow and tarp - I will bag my side yard leaves which are mostly as they fell. But once you have a pile, you kind of have no choice (especially on a driveway). I have never operated my mower in side discharge mode so I have no experience doing the drive-in-circles thing (I assume the tarp is part of that equation).
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Did the rest of the leaves. Took another couple of hours. Clogging was more or less not a problem. What I would do was run it until the sound changed which meant the leaves were backing into the chute. This actually works pretty well though you have to be listening for it. I would empty and then quickly engage the deck to blow the leaves out of the chute which usually worked fine. But I had to empty constantly, maybe every like 90 seconds of mowing or something. Also figured out the deck cleans better one notch down from full height so I did have to be a little more careful what I ran over.
Lost two deck rollers yesterday. Put two spares on, found a washer and a cotter pin. Then Ian found the rollers in the grass, thankfully.
Added like 3.5 oz MMO for whatever reason.
Lost two deck rollers yesterday. Put two spares on, found a washer and a cotter pin. Then Ian found the rollers in the grass, thankfully.
Added like 3.5 oz MMO for whatever reason.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
The directions for a single stage are to have at WOT for operational speed. That is how you are supposed to do it for max rpm/distance thrown.I admit that 12 hp is pretty effective though it's probably at wide open throttle the entire time you hear it under load,