Garden tractor acquisition
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
I'm still not sure how best to deal with the leaves. Seems like something that chops the leaves down better would be more reasonable.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Sorry, I meant actual engine WOT, as opposed to the throttle setting.bill25 wrote:The directions for a single stage are to have at WOT for operational speed. That is how you are supposed to do it for max rpm/distance thrown.I admit that 12 hp is pretty effective though it's probably at wide open throttle the entire time you hear it under load,
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Well the Gatorblade may help with that.bill25 wrote:I'm still not sure how best to deal with the leaves. Seems like something that chops the leaves down better would be more reasonable.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
I was actually thinking about that.Well the Gatorblade may help with that.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
So let's talk starters. These engines are known for being difficult to crank. I don't think there is any one reason but complaints are common. Apart from sounding pretty lousy, it would often get stuck on a compression stroke sometimes requiring another hit of the key. It has become annoying and as the weather gets colder, and especially as I talk snow blowers, I need to fix this. It's not right. Battery was 12.8V btw...which is fully charged.
Aside from cables, the only other factor is the starter itself. To rule out major cable issues, I did a voltage drop test on my cables. First I did the positive, battery terminal to starter cable bolt. Like 0.8V max when cranking. Not great but serviceable. On the ground I think it was similar, battery cable to engine block. Given that the starter has begun sounding pretty bad, and especially worse after I washed it a few weeks back, I decided the starter would need some kind of attention.
I found a guy on a forum somewhere (or possibly Youtube comments) who claimed every single Briggs opposed twin starter he's taken apart has basically been dry, as in dry bearings. My starter sounded like dry bearings so that was a possible match. The guy claimed they are super easy to take apart, and he's never had to actually replace one. Encouraging. So I embarked to pull mine off. Unfortunately that was a little tricky. There's one bolt hidden under the flywheel so that took patience to get. I also had to remove the main tin and the left side head tin but that's just bolts so whatever.
Finally I got it out and brought it over to my vice. There are two main steps to disassembly:
1) Drive out the roll pin on the shaft to pull the bendix and gear off. A punch and hammer is all it takes...
2) Remove the 2 long bolts that sandwich everything together. Just remove the lower bearing/brush holder and it all simply comes apart.
And what do I see? Some SUPER dry bearings. Yikes. Brush holder all in a pile. Brushes had plenty of life by the way. Original starter by the looks of it. Rotor. Don't lose the washers and stuff. Housing with permanent magnets. Next I basically cleaned everything off. First I started with contact cleaner but moved to carb cleaner, being careful not to get it on any of the electrical parts. I cleaned the shaft where it rides in the bearings as well as the commutator (still with contact cleaner). I didn't know what grease to use so I used wheel/chassis grease and lubed the bearings and rotor shaft. Now for the fun part: the brushes. I knew the theory (find something small to stick through the brush holder to hold each brush back for reassembly). But it took a bit of playing around to find what worked best. Ended up with two 3p finish nails per brush. I did one brush, held it with one hand while doing the opposite brush, then somehow managed to ziptie that pair. Then I moved to the opposing pair. Kinda tricky but it worked. Brush side. You can also see that I packed the end bearing with grease. Close-up of the nails. Just had to make sure they were pried tight so as not to interfere with the commutator. After that I just sandwiched the housing with the brush holder cover. Once I got it situated, I started the bolts, and then removed each set of nails. I heard the brushes spring/click right into place. Perfect. I also greased the Bendix and gear pretty well.
Installation on the machine is the reverse of disassembly...and be sure to wire brush or wire wheel metal to metal surfaces that need to conduct electricity. Like starter to head bosses and the starter itself. You can see the bolt hiding under the flywheel. If you are used to modern cars, this is hardly a challenge, though is a bit tight. I am sure a Briggs manual would say to remove the flywheel. That's unnecessary. So greasy. By the way, I think the starter gear is plastic. It was starting to get a little chewed up but will probably survive a long while. Don't forget to reattach the cable. My machine even has a protective boot (and it's still there). All that reassembled I turned the key and...the motor engaged but the gear did not engage the flywheel. It threw excess grease everywhere. I tried again and it worked perfectly. I guess it threw off what it didn't want.
With that working, I cleaned the battery cables just for good measure. They were not bad but freshly sanded terminals are always better.
Then I basically drove it around, shutting it off and restarting. It cranks quietly and as quickly as I think it did when it was new. It's so satisfying. When warm it starts up at a full idle just like a car, with a little idle flare before settling down. It did that before but it barely has to crank now and does not get stuck on a compression stroke.
So my options were aftermarket starter, Briggs OEM or this. There's nothing more farmey than taking a starter off, taking it apart, greasing it, and putting it back together only to have it work almost like new. If I got a new brush housing with bearing, and pressed in a new upper bearing, this literally would have constituted "rebuilding" the starter.
Aside from cables, the only other factor is the starter itself. To rule out major cable issues, I did a voltage drop test on my cables. First I did the positive, battery terminal to starter cable bolt. Like 0.8V max when cranking. Not great but serviceable. On the ground I think it was similar, battery cable to engine block. Given that the starter has begun sounding pretty bad, and especially worse after I washed it a few weeks back, I decided the starter would need some kind of attention.
I found a guy on a forum somewhere (or possibly Youtube comments) who claimed every single Briggs opposed twin starter he's taken apart has basically been dry, as in dry bearings. My starter sounded like dry bearings so that was a possible match. The guy claimed they are super easy to take apart, and he's never had to actually replace one. Encouraging. So I embarked to pull mine off. Unfortunately that was a little tricky. There's one bolt hidden under the flywheel so that took patience to get. I also had to remove the main tin and the left side head tin but that's just bolts so whatever.
Finally I got it out and brought it over to my vice. There are two main steps to disassembly:
1) Drive out the roll pin on the shaft to pull the bendix and gear off. A punch and hammer is all it takes...
2) Remove the 2 long bolts that sandwich everything together. Just remove the lower bearing/brush holder and it all simply comes apart.
And what do I see? Some SUPER dry bearings. Yikes. Brush holder all in a pile. Brushes had plenty of life by the way. Original starter by the looks of it. Rotor. Don't lose the washers and stuff. Housing with permanent magnets. Next I basically cleaned everything off. First I started with contact cleaner but moved to carb cleaner, being careful not to get it on any of the electrical parts. I cleaned the shaft where it rides in the bearings as well as the commutator (still with contact cleaner). I didn't know what grease to use so I used wheel/chassis grease and lubed the bearings and rotor shaft. Now for the fun part: the brushes. I knew the theory (find something small to stick through the brush holder to hold each brush back for reassembly). But it took a bit of playing around to find what worked best. Ended up with two 3p finish nails per brush. I did one brush, held it with one hand while doing the opposite brush, then somehow managed to ziptie that pair. Then I moved to the opposing pair. Kinda tricky but it worked. Brush side. You can also see that I packed the end bearing with grease. Close-up of the nails. Just had to make sure they were pried tight so as not to interfere with the commutator. After that I just sandwiched the housing with the brush holder cover. Once I got it situated, I started the bolts, and then removed each set of nails. I heard the brushes spring/click right into place. Perfect. I also greased the Bendix and gear pretty well.
Installation on the machine is the reverse of disassembly...and be sure to wire brush or wire wheel metal to metal surfaces that need to conduct electricity. Like starter to head bosses and the starter itself. You can see the bolt hiding under the flywheel. If you are used to modern cars, this is hardly a challenge, though is a bit tight. I am sure a Briggs manual would say to remove the flywheel. That's unnecessary. So greasy. By the way, I think the starter gear is plastic. It was starting to get a little chewed up but will probably survive a long while. Don't forget to reattach the cable. My machine even has a protective boot (and it's still there). All that reassembled I turned the key and...the motor engaged but the gear did not engage the flywheel. It threw excess grease everywhere. I tried again and it worked perfectly. I guess it threw off what it didn't want.
With that working, I cleaned the battery cables just for good measure. They were not bad but freshly sanded terminals are always better.
Then I basically drove it around, shutting it off and restarting. It cranks quietly and as quickly as I think it did when it was new. It's so satisfying. When warm it starts up at a full idle just like a car, with a little idle flare before settling down. It did that before but it barely has to crank now and does not get stuck on a compression stroke.
So my options were aftermarket starter, Briggs OEM or this. There's nothing more farmey than taking a starter off, taking it apart, greasing it, and putting it back together only to have it work almost like new. If I got a new brush housing with bearing, and pressed in a new upper bearing, this literally would have constituted "rebuilding" the starter.
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Re: Garden tractor acquisition
$90 at Home Depot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Briggs-Stra ... /205448700
$35 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/STARTER-MOTOR-BR ... ggs+394808
OEM for $90 (I hope the Home Depot one wasn't aftermarket for that price)
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks ... ton/497596
I'll take my 31 year old starter over aftermarket or over a $90 replacement.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Briggs-Stra ... /205448700
$35 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/STARTER-MOTOR-BR ... ggs+394808
OEM for $90 (I hope the Home Depot one wasn't aftermarket for that price)
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks ... ton/497596
I'll take my 31 year old starter over aftermarket or over a $90 replacement.
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Here we go. I mean, I'm not buying this but this is good stuff.
https://albany.craigslist.org/grd/6743539216.html
It's funny how similar it looks to my machine. Probably from the exact same era, like late 80s. It is not related to my machine, of course. This is the venerable Sovereign. Machines like this make me realize that I literally don't have to buy anything newer than the 80s and probably have enough tractors for the rest of my life.
EDIT: http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractor ... -7117.html
Looks like 81-86 if this is right.
Hydraulic lift. Limited slip differential! Nice machine. Probably around 700 lbs with no implements.
https://albany.craigslist.org/grd/6743539216.html
I'm sure this is a workhorse but just for the sheer cosmetic condition I find it overpriced a bit, though considering what this is, maybe not by a whole lot.Simplicity 7117 Garden Tractor with attachments - $1100 (Ballston Spa)
make / manufacturer: Simplicity
model name / number: 7117
Simplicity 7117 garden tractor with hydrostatic transmission and hydraulic powered attachment lift. The tractor was repowered with a Kohler Command 18 horse power engine that starts fast and runs perfectly. The bevel gear box was recently rebuilt with $400 in parts. Brand new battery. The tractor includes a 42" three blade mower deck, a 42" snowblower attachment, soft side snow cab, wheel weights, and tire chains.
Why shovel this winter when you can ride in cab, out of the wind and snow?
Cash only. Thanks.
It's funny how similar it looks to my machine. Probably from the exact same era, like late 80s. It is not related to my machine, of course. This is the venerable Sovereign. Machines like this make me realize that I literally don't have to buy anything newer than the 80s and probably have enough tractors for the rest of my life.
EDIT: http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractor ... -7117.html
Looks like 81-86 if this is right.
Hydraulic lift. Limited slip differential! Nice machine. Probably around 700 lbs with no implements.
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Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Here's another example of something that won't fit.
https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/6748031688.html
https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/6748031688.html
Snow Blower for Simplicity Regent - $350 (Central CT)
42" Single Stage Snow Blower fits Simplicity Regent Model TR/MWR Regent 20HP. Complete with all mounting hardware. $350 or best reasonable offer.
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Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Need to consolidate to a good list of part numbers to search for.
42" snow blower
1691522 (listed compatible)
1690548 (haven't confirmed but likely the same)
36" snow blower
1691521 (listed compatible)
1690547 (compatible)
Snow blower hitch frame
1690556 (listed compatible)
1692239 (compatible)
Long lift lever
1691467
1667295sm (newer B&S style number)
42" snow blower
1691522 (listed compatible)
1690548 (haven't confirmed but likely the same)
36" snow blower
1691521 (listed compatible)
1690547 (compatible)
Snow blower hitch frame
1690556 (listed compatible)
1692239 (compatible)
Long lift lever
1691467
1667295sm (newer B&S style number)
Re: Garden tractor acquisition
Finding a used lever with all the pieces is going to be difficult. I've found some that may not include all pieces.
Also finding a lever attached to the hitch frame and snow blower, all from the same place, would be ideal but also not realistic based on my search.
But finding NOS would be ideal, maybe not from a cost perspective, but knowing it comes with everything (including installation instructions) is a pretty good option.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SIMPLICITY ... :rk:1:pf:0
I should make an offer and see.
So my most realistic options are:
- Buy this lever separately and probably pay in excess of $100 for it, probably at least $125
- Buy a 36" snow blower with correct hitch (I have found some) for $100
- Either use that, or also track down a 42" snow blower with perhaps the incorrect hitch frame, swap, and sell the 36" by itself (won't be worth much though)
If I want to stick with the 36" I could do that for probably $225. Then find rear weights. The rubber chains. I have to string this all together, and still deal with winter switchover. And I don't think that would be more productive than a 32" walk behind which I could upgrade to for ~$400 net.
Also finding a lever attached to the hitch frame and snow blower, all from the same place, would be ideal but also not realistic based on my search.
But finding NOS would be ideal, maybe not from a cost perspective, but knowing it comes with everything (including installation instructions) is a pretty good option.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SIMPLICITY ... :rk:1:pf:0
I should make an offer and see.
So my most realistic options are:
- Buy this lever separately and probably pay in excess of $100 for it, probably at least $125
- Buy a 36" snow blower with correct hitch (I have found some) for $100
- Either use that, or also track down a 42" snow blower with perhaps the incorrect hitch frame, swap, and sell the 36" by itself (won't be worth much though)
If I want to stick with the 36" I could do that for probably $225. Then find rear weights. The rubber chains. I have to string this all together, and still deal with winter switchover. And I don't think that would be more productive than a 32" walk behind which I could upgrade to for ~$400 net.