General STS thread

[kevm14]

Some combination of the brake booster hose clamping and new fuel filter seem to have restored the cranking time to fully correct and the same as the SRX.

My brother in law mentioned something about the fuel pump priming on his A4 wagon when the driver's door opens (so weird) and some other stuff. That made me think about my STS. It still definitely has longer cranking than the SRX. Initially I said I highly doubt it is fuel pressure related. But then I figured I may as well give it a shot. The thing with the STS is, it has keyless ignition. So starting is basically just, press the brake, and tap the rocker to crank and it cranks itself.

With the SRX (and almost all other ignition key vehicles), you turn the key to "on" momentarily before cranking, which does give a small moment to prime the fuel system in case pressure did drop overnight or whatever (it is supposed to hold). With the STS, it is all computer controlled and I don't think it really spends any time in "on/run" before cranking itself. The funny thing is, to run through a similar procedure on the STS is a little bit cumbersome. On an ignition key vehicle, you'd just pause in "run" for a second before cranking, something I probably do naturally on most of my other vehicles. On the STS, you have to hold the rocker in the accessory/down position for like 3 seconds. Then the ignition turns on. After a second or two, press the brake and press crank as normal. So I tried this.

Turns out, each time I have done this, it starts up noticeably faster each time. So I guess the conclusion is, my fuel pressure is dropping a little more than it probably should while it sits. Since I have already replaced the fuel filter (which has an integrated regulator) the only other thing is the fuel pump (with integral check valve). I can tell you I am absolutely NOT replacing the fuel pump over this, but I think that's probably what is adding a little extra cranking time (unless I do my little prime routine first). How much extra you ask? Never timed it but I bet it is no more than an extra 0.5 seconds or something of cranking. Hard to be motivated to replace a fuel pump over that. So I won't. But at least I kind of know what's going on.

[kevm14]

Oh wow, no, I am wrong about some of how my fuel system works. Here is the FSM page on it.

A couple of notes from reading this:
- Like all of the Sigma vehicles, the fuel tank is saddle-style over the driveshaft (and exhaust) so there are essentially two tanks with a transfer pump. I knew this before. There are two fuel level sensors (that would be available via Tech 2) and I think that's how the transfer pump is controlled.
- The fuel pressure regulation is NOT vacuum referenced, and instead the ECM deals with the varying intake manifold pressure (which impacts the flow rate from the injectors). I knew this, too.
- If the diagram is to be believed, the check valve is external to the pump itself, unless it is more of a functional diagram rather than a physical diagram. Not sure that matters much anyway as I don't think the check valve is available separately or anything.
- The real surprise is that the fuel filter does NOT provide pressure regulation. That is also apparently integral to the fuel pump assembly. It is a different setup than most cars though, at least most cars with a return style fuel system. On those, the pump runs fuel to the rail and injectors, and on the return side, the regulator controls flow back to the tank. On mine, the fuel is returned at the fuel filter (rather than going all the way to the engine), and the regulator is back at the tank, rather than near where the fuel starts to return back to the tank. So I guess it is really a return-style system but plumbed in sort of a hybrid way.
- The good news is, any kind of fuel supply or pressure issue would be resolved by replacing the fuel pump assembly since everything is basically located there.

An interesting note on fuel control during crank:

Fueling during a crank is slightly different than fueling during an engine run. As the engine begins
to turn, a prime pulse may be injected to speed starting. As soon as the ECM can determine where
in the firing order the engine is, the ECM begins pulsing the injectors. The pulse width during the
crank is based on the coolant temperature and the engine load.

When the ECM detects reference pulses from the CKP sensor, the ECM will enable the fuel pump.
The fuel pump runs and builds up pressure in the fuel system. The ECM then monitors the MAF,
IAT, engine coolant temperature (ECT), and the throttle position (TP) sensor signal in order to
determine the required injector pulse width for starting.

That's a little odd. It suggests there is no pump priming at all until the engine is actually cranking? That doesn't jive with what I am noticing.

Like I said, it definitely starts faster when I let it prime a second or two. Maybe it does prime the pump, but then shuts off and doesn't restart the pump until the engine is actually cranking? Hmm.

[kevm14]

This car needs an alignment. I mean it's needed an alignment. Maybe some bushings are worn but it seems like it is an alignment-a-year or every other year kind of car...

That funny wear on the left rear is starting on the swapped tire from the other side. It looks like positive camber or at least nowhere near the right amount of negative camber. And who knows if it is further deflecting upon hard right cornering. I can say that I drove into a decreasing radius corner this morning and kept turning the wheel as it got tighter. Eventually I felt the rear end start to give up before the front which was unexpected. I doubt that is normal for the way this car is set up. And since I want to go to 255s in the front, I better make sure the rear is right. I've felt this on wet but this morning was dry (but humid, and maybe a little damp?).

I still want to wait until I get new tires and just do the alignment at that time but it really needs it now. I also need to do a final decision on whether I am still doing just two new rears or bite the bullet and do all 4. Really just depends on an honest assessment of front tread. I have a tendency to look at the center, or otherwise ignore wear on the edges...due to my driving style, weird stuff can happen. Of course the CTS-V is wearing well. Because those tires are matched to my driving style, and so is the alignment that the car has.

[kevm14]

https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/6718574328.html

2005 Cadillac STS 4.6L V8 - $4600 (Millstone twp)

2005 Cadillac sts
condition: excellent
cylinders: 8 cylinders
drive: rwd
fuel: gas
odometer: 187000
title status: clean
transmission: automatic
Selling my personal STS that I've owned since 2015. Everything works on the car and I guarantee this is the cleanest and smoothest running V8 Sts around. Many new parts, polyurethane Rear diff bushing from Creative steele, new factory motor mounts, and Mobile 1 oil changes always, Ceramic brake pads, tires have plenty of meat. The car is also 9H Ceramic coated for ultimate protection. The car is a blast to drive and is about mint for the age/miles
2 key fobs, power everything, front and rear heated seats, heated steering wheel, Rwd, Ect ect.
609-four two three- five five eight eight

Ah, another high mile STS. Some good items in the description that indicate the car was cared for. Let's take a look.

Look at the condition of the seat and steering wheel. Evidently the quality of the owner is just as important as the quality of the car.......

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[kevm14]

Check engine light came on last night. Will scan today. Probably the cat code. Much cooler weather.

[kevm14]

Oil change this weekend. 8 qts GC 0W-30. Life remaining was 18%. Interval was 8,432 miles. So the total interval would have been around 10,283 had I let it run all the way down.

This is all just fine because I added a total of 4 makeup quarts so technically over this interval half of the oil was replaced. Getting somewhere around 2,400 miles to the quart. Not great but there is definitely some leaking. On these the valve covers (cam covers?) are pretty much guaranteed to leak. It's a bit of a PITA to do one of them (maybe pass side) so given my history of fixing oil leaks (marginal) I'll probably ignore this for a while longer.

Oil consumption checking in.

Oil change in March. 133,914.

Added 1 qt @ 136,260 in June. 2,346 miles/qt. Same as the quote above.

Realized it has been a while. Checked just now. Added 1-1/2 qt oil @ 139,842. 2,388 miles/qt. Damn that is consistent.

I think the oil life is down to 46% or something in that range. 5,928 miles on this oil change so far with 2-1/2 makeup quarts.

[kevm14]

Hit 140k tonight.

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[kevm14]

I had to post this one because I liked the nature of the owner, even though he only owned the car since 2015. Also, it is somewhat noteworthy as it appears to be a base model, RWD, no nav, probably FE1, no ventilated seats, no 15 speaker audio, 17s with the small brakes which also means 2.73 axle, and the rear tires are 235 not 255. Seems to have rear HVAC and rear heated seats though. The lack of sunroof is quite surprising, too. The silver exterior and black interior is pretty unassuming, inoffensive and timeless, so that's something. I don't know if he painted the grill or if it just blends in well with the silver. Also the headlights look clear. It probably even has halogen headlights!

He put 23 pictures on his CL ad which is about as high as it gets, and then has a link to his "complete" gallery!

Look at the towels under the floor mats. He was some kind of fanatic. I like that.

He says he parks it in the winter, and being RWD, I guess I kind of believe that. But again, that was only since 2015.

I'd say it is priced to sell though I consider it very undesirable from a trim/options standpoint. Who knows, maybe he sought after a low option car.

I also like that he called out those all season Michelins. I was considering those for mine. Definitely way above average for his general attention to the car, especially at this point in its life. I mean, I don't think I've seen another STS that's had the brake lines replaced preemptively. That's nuts. I'd like to meet the guy, and not buy his car. Is that weird?

https://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/6754202960.html

2005 Cadillac STS V8 - $4000 (White Plains)

2005 Cadillac STS
VIN: 1G6DC67A050122491
condition: good
cylinders: 8 cylinders
drive: rwd
fuel: gas
odometer: 104000
paint color: silver
size: full-size
title status: clean
transmission: automatic
type: sedan
For sale is a 2005 Cadillac STS with the Northstar V8. I drive the car every day, except in the winter when I leave it parked, and have owned it since March 2015. Complete picture gallery here: https://imgur.com/a/czKP8Xn

Mechanical --
Overall, I have focused on keeping the car in excellent mechanical shape. I have it evaluated by Cadillac once a year, and by my mechanic twice a year (at least). I have all of these records going back to when I bought the car, every time it was brought in. I made significant investments in the car to fix all the common problems that occur, and it's been very reliable over the past 2+ years. Mechanically, the car is awesome, and the powertrain sounds like it could go forever.

Here's a quick summary of some of the work that has been done:
- New catalytic converter and cat-back replaced by Cadillac (replaced under an 11 year EPA mandated warranty)
- New motor and transmission mounts
- New pinion seal and bushing in the rear differential
- New radiator
- All new brake lines throughout the entire car. The dealers told me this was not necessary (all documented), but I planned on keeping the car for years to come and wanted to ensure that it would be safe no matter what.

Then there's the common maintenance:
- Michelin 235/50ZR17 Pilot Sport A/S 3+ are on the car. They have less than 15,000 miles on them and are the best tires available for the car.
- All new rotors, pads, and rear calipers put in. Rotors are OEM, so they're good for at least another decade.
- All oil changes have been done with more than 30% remaining on the engine oil life clock. Only used Mobil1 High Mileage with the AC Delco oil filter.
- Have only put premium, top tier gas in the car, although premium is not required (but recommended).

Cosmetic --
The car does have some minor dents and dings that I inherited when I bought the car. Here are the issues:
- 1 dent and one scratch on the front bumper.
- 1 small dent in the rear driver side quarter panel.

I have also made investments in the cosmetic side though:
- New right rear taillight after one LED went out.
- New trim piece above the grille.
- New overhead console after one of the buttons stopped working.

Conclusion --
The car isn't perfect cosmetically, but it's good, especially for its age. Mechanically, the car is in great shape. It starts vigorously and clearly has lots of life left. The only reason I'm selling it is that my job is moving to the city and it doesn't make sense for me to have a car there.

Make me an offer, I'm hoping to sell to someone who will care for the car as I have, and will be able to enjoy it for years to come!

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[kevm14]

Ordered two Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 for the rear, in 255/45-18. Not cheap. $395 with tax. Plus installation, which will probably be $60 or so. Sucks. Oh and I need an alignment. Need to print out my front caster and camber adjustments and rear camber so they, you know, align right.

Next set, once I determine I have a stable alignment, I may spring for some fancy Michelins or something. These Continentals aren't good enough for me.

[kevm14]

So the clunking I was dealing with seems to be gone. I think I am starting to hear my caliper rattle as I expected. But I'm so sensitized to this that when I hear ANYTHING I freak out because I just did all that work and I am afraid it will slip in the bar hole and start clunking again. I will continue to evaluate as I drive it.

I guess I am thinking about the surface of the bar where the link inserts. It was not flat, because I kind of screwed it up with the saw. So I am concerned that it could want to slip in some direction toward a "less tight" position and then start rattling in there. Which would suggest I may want to see if I can tighten the nut up in a week. But that will screw up my loctite. So much stress from this! I guess I am simply hoping that the brand new part with new nut, tightened down properly, will just clamp so tight that slip cannot occur, no matter what kind of road conditions prevail.

Quote was from Feb...

I think the clunking is starting to come back though I have not verified that it is the link slipping in the bar. Aside from simply attempting to retorque the nut, what I started to think about was drilling out the hole a bit (with my super awesome drill bits) and then "obtain" some kind of sleeve that would slip onto the end link stud, and take up the slop in the hole. Either that or close up the hole a bit with weld and redrill to the right size for the end link stud.

I like the sleeve idea though I don't know what the source for a sleeve would be, and it would be awfully short. Rather than a cylinder it would be more like a ring. I guess if it is sandwiched between the link and the nut it would stay put. For the sleeve/ring, I guess I could find something the right inner diameter to fit tightly on the stud, and then drill appropriately for the outer diameter. Or, could drill, and then weld a sleeve in. THAT would be better.

If replacing the bar wasn't so involved I would just entertain that but that's pretty much not happening.