General STS thread

[kevm14]

I think the clunking is starting to come back though I have not verified that it is the link slipping in the bar. Aside from simply attempting to retorque the nut, what I started to think about was drilling out the hole a bit (with my super awesome drill bits) and then "obtain" some kind of sleeve that would slip onto the end link stud, and take up the slop in the hole. Either that or close up the hole a bit with weld and redrill to the right size for the end link stud.

I like the sleeve idea though I don't know what the source for a sleeve would be, and it would be awfully short. Rather than a cylinder it would be more like a ring. I guess if it is sandwiched between the link and the nut it would stay put. For the sleeve/ring, I guess I could find something the right inner diameter to fit tightly on the stud, and then drill appropriately for the outer diameter. Or, could drill, and then weld a sleeve in. THAT would be better.

If replacing the bar wasn't so involved I would just entertain that but that's pretty much not happening.

Talked to Adam about this at lunch. He simply suggested that we could weld a washer (of suitable thickness) to the bar. Either on both sides or just the nut side. This would be pretty easy...

I would just need a grade 10.9 metric washer, of decent thickness, with the right center diameter for the stud. A little grinding, a little welding, a little more grinding, some paint, bam, fixed forever, for real?

[kevm14]

So I felt some clunking again. The thing that's a little weird about it is it can be triggered by hitting the brakes firmly or occasionally the gas. I'm wondering if it is something more serious like a ball joint.

But anyway I decided to get the car up a little higher so I could put a torque wrench on the end link nut. Spec is 95 lb-ft which is nearly as much as a lug nut. I put the torque wrench on it and....click. Hmm. Tried the lower nut which goes onto the lower control arm. Actually got maybe 1/8th to 1/4 turn and it clicked. I got the same out of the passenger side end link nuts as well. But back to the driver's side upper (the troublemaker). I used a 1/2" ratchet and cheater bar and gave it some extra over torque. I honestly don't know why it shouldn't hold perfectly still just on the tension of the stud, even if the hole in the bar is oblong.

Test drive again revealed that there is STILL some clunking in certain situations, though it seemed better. I better take a look at the ball joints. I can kind of feel it at my feet when it happens. Loose subframe bolts? I guess I should check a few things...

I will figure this one out eventually.

[kevm14]

Didn't really feel anything bad on my commute.

Did not end up checking my ball joints this weekend. The "good" news is that if I suspect lower control arm bushings OR lower ball joint, I just replace the whole thing. The bushings aren't serviceable though I guess the ball joints are (i.e. I can buy them separately).

Evidently there is a RWD and AWD front lower control arm. Not sure what the difference is. But oddly the RWD ones only fit the STS. The AWD ones fit the following:

CADILLAC CTS 2008-2014
CADILLAC SRX 2004-2009
CADILLAC STS 2005-2011

So basically all of the large first gen Sigma cars and also the 2nd gen CTS.

Mevotech is $154 and $170 for lower right and lower left respectively. AC Delco is only shown for RWD...

Also their ball joint is greasable which is...kind of annoying actually.

Mevotech front uppers are $85/ea.

Side note, RockAuto also lists front caster/camber bolts, I guess if more adjustment is needed. AC Delco is even shown. And there are two different styles.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 42&jsn=448
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 42&jsn=450

[kevm14]

https://providence.craigslist.org/cto/6765941286.html

2007 Cadillac STS-V (V8 Northstar w/ 97,000 miles) - $4850 (Narragansett)
2007 cadillac sts-v
condition: good
cylinders: 8 cylinders
drive: rwd
fuel: gas
odometer: 97000
title status: clean
transmission: automatic
Selling 2007 Cadillac STS-V

-No Accidents
-97k Miles on V8 Northstar Engine
-Brand New Power Steering Unit along with all factory lines replaced. (August 2018)
-Bose Speaker System
-Bluetooth Phone System
-Touch Screen Navigation
-Driver Seat Adjustment Memory
-Heated Seats
-Air Conditioned Seats

Asking $4,850

Photos are taken on two different occasions, with two different cameras. (Hazard Rocks Parking Lot & Scarborough Beach Lot)

Call / Text - PJ

This one is a little odd. Great pictures, but only 4, and none of the interior. Car appears to be in very nice shape. Also, nice try on the STS-V. That's part of the oddness.

But this may be a RWD 1SG, which, barring the lack of adaptive cruise, was one of the unicorns I was supposedly looking for as it has the 6L50 and 3.42 gear. Thing probably can roast the rear tires off the line. Oh, and this is RWD. Decent price. Wonder if the steering rack was the last straw. That job probably cost $2k if it was done at the dealer.

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[kevm14]

I ended up at a light next to an E90 335i this morning. Manual trans. He appeared interested in beating me off the light and getting in front of me for a left turn a few blocks up (which is something I would do and have done). I think I saw him push in the clutch and roll back slightly which triggers a consent to launch that is now instinctual. Conditions were not ideal though. Probably low to mid 30s, and the road seemed damp.

Light turned green and I hit it but not WOT. I rolled into it as we left the light since I saw he was giving it some sauce, as well. I kept in it but didn't even wind out 1st and let off around 30 at which point he, of course, blasted by. I am sure I could have held him off to at least 40 or 50 in the conditions but I was not willing to put myself at risk for obvious reasons. He got in front of me at the next light and was in fact turning the same left, behind a slog of cars. I don't think he could have used WOT up to at least 30 or 40 due to traction, and it was specifically NOT AWD by marking...

[kevm14]

This is supposedly in some priority order so I will maintain the order in which they were listed.

ESC (suspension module)
C0630 symptom 55
Passed this and last ignition cycle
This corresponds to an issue with the right rear ride height sensor. I did have to replace a right front sensor a year ago so maybe it needs a right rear now. Not sure yet. A Delphi right rear sensor is $122.79.

Along with my cat efficiency code this one came back, too. Reset again. Like I said before, it may need a right rear sensor at some point. There are no other symptoms though. Like no service suspension display or anything.

[kevm14]

As I posted in my other thread I played with the Tech 2 for a while tonight. First I was looking at the lean stuff so I was watching fuel trims. Then I was watching coolant temp. Then I played with the electronic throttle body controls, which was interesting. They let you command the throttle with the engine off in 10% increments from 0-100%. So I set it to 100% and decided to give it an even better cleaning than before. That was satisfying.

I could not find a coolant leak. It may leak under load or something. But one thing is odd - the upper radiator hose never gets hard. What I may want to invest in next is a cooling system pressure tester so I can put 12 or 15 psi on the system and actually look for leaks. I think it is still leaking and I do smell some occasionally but if I can't find the leak I can't fix it.

Oh, this car will start and run with no MAF connected. I did that so I could monitor the t-stat housing area while idling. It was fun to spray carb cleaner at the TB and watch the throttle respond to maintain idle. It responds very quickly but is also precise. Just the kind of control system you'd want for that.

[kevm14]

Just ordered this:
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic- ... EPSM5M8XKE

And this:
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7858541-Nu ... ZTBHAC9H8V

Cooling system pressure tester with GM cap adapter. Hook to shop air, set regulator to whatever, 13 or whatever it needs to be, and blast away. Initial check can pressurize and then shut valve to monitor ability to hold, or leave valve open to maintain pressure and search actively for the leak.

This is going to be cool. Hopefully it's not the radiator or something more annoying. Kind of hoping to just buy a new T-stat gasket (did not replace last time, reused) and clean the housing, or something like that. It did not leak until after I replaced the T-stat...

[kevm14]

Sweet.

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[kevm14]

Not that there is anything wrong with mine, but what if I had a problem with my DVD nav, in-dash CD changer, or that giant tilting touch screen (for 05)? Would it be bonkers in cost to replace? Well not 13 years after the car was built.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2006-2007 ... :rk:2:pf:0

For less than the cost of a decent aftermarket head unit, I could replace my entire radio/nav unit.

OEM is Denso, btw, same as for our SRX.