I have decided to replace these. Parts ordered.
Great video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9g1efBYnyas
I should get that tool at 1:25.
There are some comments about the AC being in the way, and having to lift the engine. Someone else commented that you just have to take the AC shield off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiKtoJyJeXk
Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
Taking the A/C off may instead translate to unbolting the compressor and moving it out of the way with the lines still connected, depending on the packaging in your engine compartment. I had to do that to replace the alternator in the Maxima, and it's not uncommon in RWD applications, as well. For you that also means dealing with the stupid stretch belt.
"Jacking the engine up" usually just consists of putting a block of wood with a jack under the oil pan, putting a little pressure on it, disconnecting an engine mount, and possibly jacking the engine up an inch or two to gain access to something. Not a big deal.
The control arms themselves will be a little more work I think as you need to break the lower ball joint free of the knuckle. There is an axle kind of in the way so access may be a little tight. I'm wondering if you don't even need to disconnect the strut from the knuckle. Or even remove the caliper and rotor. But you will need something for that ball joint. I'd use a real separator if you can, rather than just a pickle fork. Other than that you probably have anti roll bar end links to unbolt and then the main bolts that hold the control arms to the frame/body. Those are usually big and fairly high torque.
"Jacking the engine up" usually just consists of putting a block of wood with a jack under the oil pan, putting a little pressure on it, disconnecting an engine mount, and possibly jacking the engine up an inch or two to gain access to something. Not a big deal.
The control arms themselves will be a little more work I think as you need to break the lower ball joint free of the knuckle. There is an axle kind of in the way so access may be a little tight. I'm wondering if you don't even need to disconnect the strut from the knuckle. Or even remove the caliper and rotor. But you will need something for that ball joint. I'd use a real separator if you can, rather than just a pickle fork. Other than that you probably have anti roll bar end links to unbolt and then the main bolts that hold the control arms to the frame/body. Those are usually big and fairly high torque.
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Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
So it sounds like the job on the driver's side is easy, other than getting a ball joint separator.
I used a tool just like this on the Maxima when I did the wheel bearing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/381699652767
All your front suspension is pinched so it may require less force to get the ball joint stud out of the knuckle, because it's not really pressed into a taper. In fact you may not need a tool at all. Just a couple of well placed/careful shots with a 2.5 lb sledge on the right place.
I will have to look for it - I thought I bought it rather than rented it. They are cheap anyway. You won't pay more than $35.
On the passenger side, sounds like you remove the A/C pulley shield, jack the engine up and then can remove the front control arm bolt and do the job like the driver's side. Not that bad really. It'll just take a bit of time to do it all.
I used a tool just like this on the Maxima when I did the wheel bearing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/381699652767
All your front suspension is pinched so it may require less force to get the ball joint stud out of the knuckle, because it's not really pressed into a taper. In fact you may not need a tool at all. Just a couple of well placed/careful shots with a 2.5 lb sledge on the right place.
I will have to look for it - I thought I bought it rather than rented it. They are cheap anyway. You won't pay more than $35.
On the passenger side, sounds like you remove the A/C pulley shield, jack the engine up and then can remove the front control arm bolt and do the job like the driver's side. Not that bad really. It'll just take a bit of time to do it all.
Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
Here are some pics of the upcoming job. Still waiting for the second control arm. Should be here by Tuesday.
Here are pics of where the driver's side ball joint goes into the bottom of the knuckle. Not sure the tool I bought will help much as there isn't much showing above the pinch area. Driver's side where the bolt should definitely clear the transmission pan: Here are the pics of the passenger's side where the AC might be in the way:
Here are pics of where the driver's side ball joint goes into the bottom of the knuckle. Not sure the tool I bought will help much as there isn't much showing above the pinch area. Driver's side where the bolt should definitely clear the transmission pan: Here are the pics of the passenger's side where the AC might be in the way:
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Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
Is there any way to have these pics side by side?
Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
Torque Specs per the book (beginning of suspension chapter):
Front bolt: 105 ft-lbs
Rear bolts: 115 ft-lbs
Ball-joint to knuckle pinch bolt: 40 ft-lbs
AutoZone said:
Stabilizer link to the lower control arm. Torque the nut to 27-39 ft. lbs. (37-53 Nm) N/A for my car, pretty sure.
Lower ball joint to the steering knuckle. Torque the bolt to 26-41 ft. lbs. (35-56 Nm) - 26-41 - vice 40, pretty close.
Then:
With the vehicle at normal ride height, tighten the lower control arm mounting bolts.
Front bushing through-bolt to 58-78 ft. lbs. (79-106 Nm) - 58-78 vice 105... big difference
Rear bushing strap bolts to 69-96 ft. lbs. (94-131 Nm). - 69-96 vice 115... where did they get these numbers?
What does your torque wrench go up to?
Front bolt: 105 ft-lbs
Rear bolts: 115 ft-lbs
Ball-joint to knuckle pinch bolt: 40 ft-lbs
AutoZone said:
Stabilizer link to the lower control arm. Torque the nut to 27-39 ft. lbs. (37-53 Nm) N/A for my car, pretty sure.
Lower ball joint to the steering knuckle. Torque the bolt to 26-41 ft. lbs. (35-56 Nm) - 26-41 - vice 40, pretty close.
Then:
With the vehicle at normal ride height, tighten the lower control arm mounting bolts.
Front bushing through-bolt to 58-78 ft. lbs. (79-106 Nm) - 58-78 vice 105... big difference
Rear bushing strap bolts to 69-96 ft. lbs. (94-131 Nm). - 69-96 vice 115... where did they get these numbers?
What does your torque wrench go up to?
Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
I think like 20-150 or something.
Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
Finished. Probably need an alignment.
Drivers side was easier, so I did it first. Not easy...
Haynes manual doesn't mention unbolting the tie-rod to knuckle pin/ball-joint. I was struggling then watched the video again. They unbolted that and that allows you to move the knuckle out of the way enough to allow the new control arm to go much higher. This matters because there is tension in the upward direction from the bushings. For the strap holes to line up for the bolts, you need raise the control arm ball joint end pretty high. The knuckle is totally in the way without removing the tie-rod ball joint.
Once that was done, things were easier. I used a jack with a block of wood to push the knuckle up and towards the front bumper to hold it out of the way.
Good thing I got the tool to separate the ball joint, I used it twice on the rivers side, and 3 times on the passenger side. The third time on the passenger side was to push the pinch bolt out.
Once everything was together, I jacked up the knuckle, compressing the spring, and tighened the back (115 ft-lbs) and the front (105 ft-lbs) control arm bolts.
A few observations.
This seemed a lot tighter than the back bolts were when I took them off. To remove them, it just took a half inch socket ratchet, no cheater/breaker bar...
The bolt with the safety pin for the tie-rod was rediculously tight even after initial breaking. They were difficult the whole way out.
The passenger side was the same except:
I did have to jack up the engine to remove the horizontal front bolt. I had to jack it up again to replace it.
I am not sure what the deal was with this side as far as the strap bolt bushing. it was causing the arm to be so high up that it was hitting the control arm making the horizontal bolt impossible to put back in. I needed 3 jacks. 1 for the engine, 1 for the knuckle to keep it out of the way, and one to push up the control arm into place for the horizontal bolt.
After the 3 suspension bolts were in, I pushed down on the arm to put the pin in the knuckle and the bushing either unbound to where it is supposed to be, or broke... But if it was like that to begin with, I wouldn't have needed the 3rd jack...
Order of removal:
Wheel,
Jack up knuckle to remove control arm connector on strut
strap bolts
front horizontal bolt
pinch bolt
puller tool on ball joint to remove
tie-rod ball joint
puller tool to remove
The order of putting the bolts in is as follows:
The 2 strap bolts, loosely
The horizontal front bolt, loosely,
The ball-joint pin - tightened to 40 ft-lbs.
Jack up the knuckle,
connect control arm pin
tighten the 3 control arm bolts to spec.
Drivers side was easier, so I did it first. Not easy...
Haynes manual doesn't mention unbolting the tie-rod to knuckle pin/ball-joint. I was struggling then watched the video again. They unbolted that and that allows you to move the knuckle out of the way enough to allow the new control arm to go much higher. This matters because there is tension in the upward direction from the bushings. For the strap holes to line up for the bolts, you need raise the control arm ball joint end pretty high. The knuckle is totally in the way without removing the tie-rod ball joint.
Once that was done, things were easier. I used a jack with a block of wood to push the knuckle up and towards the front bumper to hold it out of the way.
Good thing I got the tool to separate the ball joint, I used it twice on the rivers side, and 3 times on the passenger side. The third time on the passenger side was to push the pinch bolt out.
Once everything was together, I jacked up the knuckle, compressing the spring, and tighened the back (115 ft-lbs) and the front (105 ft-lbs) control arm bolts.
A few observations.
This seemed a lot tighter than the back bolts were when I took them off. To remove them, it just took a half inch socket ratchet, no cheater/breaker bar...
The bolt with the safety pin for the tie-rod was rediculously tight even after initial breaking. They were difficult the whole way out.
The passenger side was the same except:
I did have to jack up the engine to remove the horizontal front bolt. I had to jack it up again to replace it.
I am not sure what the deal was with this side as far as the strap bolt bushing. it was causing the arm to be so high up that it was hitting the control arm making the horizontal bolt impossible to put back in. I needed 3 jacks. 1 for the engine, 1 for the knuckle to keep it out of the way, and one to push up the control arm into place for the horizontal bolt.
After the 3 suspension bolts were in, I pushed down on the arm to put the pin in the knuckle and the bushing either unbound to where it is supposed to be, or broke... But if it was like that to begin with, I wouldn't have needed the 3rd jack...
Order of removal:
Wheel,
Jack up knuckle to remove control arm connector on strut
strap bolts
front horizontal bolt
pinch bolt
puller tool on ball joint to remove
tie-rod ball joint
puller tool to remove
The order of putting the bolts in is as follows:
The 2 strap bolts, loosely
The horizontal front bolt, loosely,
The ball-joint pin - tightened to 40 ft-lbs.
Jack up the knuckle,
connect control arm pin
tighten the 3 control arm bolts to spec.
Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
So, apparently, these were good for 20K miles...
Re: Mazda3 Lower Control Arms
I found this:
https://www.mazda3forums.com/62-suspens ... arned.html
https://www.mazda3forums.com/62-suspens ... arned.html
Doesn't totally explain replacement ones failing though.UPDATE: Look what I found on finishline performance! It's a TSB to have the arms replaced under warranty if they are making a noise, so maybe there was a problem with the arms from the factory.