So for what seems like well over a year, there was a very nasty metallic squeal that came from the left front and it would always make a racket when Jamie was maneuvering the car in the driveway, although pretty much only then (also presumably when parking elsewhere). I ignored it for a long time because I knew I did the pads not that long ago and there were no other signs of brake issues. However, as she pulled in the garage tonight I decided it was time to check the brakes just to make sure one of the pads wasn't like worn down to the backing plate.
I decided to briefly road test the car just to get a baseline on everything. When I pulled back into the driveway and turned to pull into the garage, it started squealing again like it always does. But this time I had the brilliant idea to left foot brake while continuing to roll (and apply throttle as needed). Know what? The sound didn't change AT ALL. Worn out brakes almost always sound different when you apply pressure, even if the wear indicators are contacting the rotor full time. This means the sound probably has nothing to do with the brakes. Brilliant. I did jack up the front, disable traction control, put it in drive and listen for noise as the front tires spun. There was none at all. So....kinda weird.
Then I had my lightbulb idea: What if the SAME heat shield that sounded like garbage on my STS when I first test drove it after all that front suspension work was also rubbing on the rotor on the SRX?? I mean it didn't sound the same and in fact didn't seem to make any noise driving down the road (unlike the STS which just got worse and worse) but it was certainly worth a look.
Guess what? It was rubbing on the rotor, ever so gently. So I bent it back with a screwdriver and also checked the other side which was close but not quite touching, so I bent it back, too.
I decided to also check the pads while I was there and both front pads on both sides actually had plenty of meat, which they should, as it was only 2 years ago that I did them I guess.
Installed wheels, torqued, lowered car, etc.
Test drive revealed the noise is completely gone. This noise has been around for a long time and it was just that stupid heat shield. Live and learn.
08 SRX needs brakes...again
Re: 08 SRX needs brakes...again
Almost 2 weeks and it's completely squeak free. Makes me wonder if I would have ever found this if I didn't do all that STS work (and had a nasty screech afterward).
Re: 08 SRX needs brakes...again
Customer states: "my brakes are grinding"
Well yeah.
This was pretty diagnosable just backing it out of the garage. Clearly something was grinding on the backing plate. Stuck my hand through the wheel and felt the inner rear rotors. Right rear trashed. Double confirm. Then this visual was triple confirmation. Annoyingly the wear indicator wasn't even touching the rotor on the inside. WTF?
So it needs rear pads and rotors again.
Well yeah.
This was pretty diagnosable just backing it out of the garage. Clearly something was grinding on the backing plate. Stuck my hand through the wheel and felt the inner rear rotors. Right rear trashed. Double confirm. Then this visual was triple confirmation. Annoyingly the wear indicator wasn't even touching the rotor on the inside. WTF?
So it needs rear pads and rotors again.
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Re: 08 SRX needs brakes...again
Here's what I bought. This was way cheaper than a local parts store.
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Re: 08 SRX needs brakes...again
Done. Left inner pad was pretty spanked but not totally gone.
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Re: 08 SRX needs brakes...again
Right rear caliper is hanging causing the brake to get way too hot. Jamie complained of a smell and the right rear rotor was like 350-375F when she got home from just around town driving. Clearly no good. I ordered a Raybestos new caliper with bracket and a brake hose. There is actually a second hose that goes to the subframe but I'll just pretend that can't be the issue. and stick with the caliper and main brake hose. Another $100...
Re: 08 SRX needs brakes...again
I looked at the brake hose situation and decided I didn't feel like replacing it. Obviously this was a dice roll because if the new caliper was still dragging that would point to a collapsed brake hose, and having to work on it twice.
So since I was just doing the caliper, I changed it. I actually replaced it pretty efficiently. Something like this:
- To start, I filled the brake master reservoir to the top (over full) with the idea that I didn't want anything to empty out, and I only wanted to bleed the right rear when I was done.
- Loosen caliper bracket bolts but don't remove. 18mm.
- Loosen but don't remove the caliper banjo bolt
- Remove the upper caliper slide pin bolt
- Swing caliper up and remove the new pads
- Swing caliper back down, reinstall bolt
- Remove banjo bolt
- Remove caliper bracket bolts and remove caliper
The inner copper crush washer was that triangle shape that is threaded on the banjo bolt. It's just annoying. Grab it with vice grips and spin the bolt off.
The new caliper was all assembled. New bracket, new pins, new boots, new caliper. All in one piece. Pretty nice. Plus no core. Just slap that back on the knuckle and start the caliper bolts. Actually, torque them (I made them "tight"). Slip the one new washer on the banjo bolt, push bolt through line and slip the other new washer on the other side of the bolt. Screw into new caliper.
Now just remove the upper caliper slide pin bolt, swing caliper up, throw those new pads back in and swing it back down. Reinstall bolt and tighten.
I elected to use the old bleeder and bleeder cover because both were nicer than the new Chinese ones. The old bleeder was 10mm but had way more meat to grab with a socket. And the new cap was just a little cap. The OEM one covers the base of the bleeder and has a cap on a tether. More protection.
Anyway, I bled with a hose for neatness and that was fine except then I noticed the banjo bolt washers were leaking. I had made it tight but I've experienced this before where it just needs more. So I gave it more. That worked. That's it. Clean up the misc brake fluid so it doesn't look like the shock just failed and reinstall the wheel.
This did not take me long.
A short road test revealed 120-130F on all rotors except the left rear which was more like 170F. So that one is definitely dragging a bit but nothing like the right rear was. For now I'll just run it and check the rotor temps when the car returns every once in a while. If it gets hung up I'll do a left caliper. I went through this on my STS as well. It's a thing with these cars. I guess the phenolic pistons swell over time (due to brake fluid exposure?). Happened on my brother in law's 2004 SRX as well (many years ago at Berman's wedding). Then I experienced it in my 05 STS a few years back. And on this 08 SRX just now. This all adds up.
So since I was just doing the caliper, I changed it. I actually replaced it pretty efficiently. Something like this:
- To start, I filled the brake master reservoir to the top (over full) with the idea that I didn't want anything to empty out, and I only wanted to bleed the right rear when I was done.
- Loosen caliper bracket bolts but don't remove. 18mm.
- Loosen but don't remove the caliper banjo bolt
- Remove the upper caliper slide pin bolt
- Swing caliper up and remove the new pads
- Swing caliper back down, reinstall bolt
- Remove banjo bolt
- Remove caliper bracket bolts and remove caliper
The inner copper crush washer was that triangle shape that is threaded on the banjo bolt. It's just annoying. Grab it with vice grips and spin the bolt off.
The new caliper was all assembled. New bracket, new pins, new boots, new caliper. All in one piece. Pretty nice. Plus no core. Just slap that back on the knuckle and start the caliper bolts. Actually, torque them (I made them "tight"). Slip the one new washer on the banjo bolt, push bolt through line and slip the other new washer on the other side of the bolt. Screw into new caliper.
Now just remove the upper caliper slide pin bolt, swing caliper up, throw those new pads back in and swing it back down. Reinstall bolt and tighten.
I elected to use the old bleeder and bleeder cover because both were nicer than the new Chinese ones. The old bleeder was 10mm but had way more meat to grab with a socket. And the new cap was just a little cap. The OEM one covers the base of the bleeder and has a cap on a tether. More protection.
Anyway, I bled with a hose for neatness and that was fine except then I noticed the banjo bolt washers were leaking. I had made it tight but I've experienced this before where it just needs more. So I gave it more. That worked. That's it. Clean up the misc brake fluid so it doesn't look like the shock just failed and reinstall the wheel.
This did not take me long.
A short road test revealed 120-130F on all rotors except the left rear which was more like 170F. So that one is definitely dragging a bit but nothing like the right rear was. For now I'll just run it and check the rotor temps when the car returns every once in a while. If it gets hung up I'll do a left caliper. I went through this on my STS as well. It's a thing with these cars. I guess the phenolic pistons swell over time (due to brake fluid exposure?). Happened on my brother in law's 2004 SRX as well (many years ago at Berman's wedding). Then I experienced it in my 05 STS a few years back. And on this 08 SRX just now. This all adds up.
Re: 08 SRX needs brakes...again
Car needed front pads and rotors, again. And it needed a right front caliper. So I did both calipers and also did a full flush of the brakes at all 4 corners. Finally upgraded to Hawk HPS pads, too. 158,5xx miles. Will it sell? Not sure.
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