Mercedes E63S thread

[kevm14]

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[kevm14]

- Front struts and mounts. The front seems under damped to me. It just feels lame, which checks out since I am dealing with 103k on original shocks (made by Monroe for some totally inexplicable reason). This is going to be another tremendous expense though I think buying new is worth it unlike at the rear. New mounts would also solve a crunching sound when turning the wheel in colder temps (I believe).

Left front @ $707: https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... OC1nYXM%3D

Right front @ $992: https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... OC1nYXM%3D

So that's $1700...

Strut mount bearings x2 @ $26.45/ea: https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... wtdjgtZ2Fz

And another $53. So call it $1750 for front struts (does not include new springs).

With the great success I've had recently I think I am getting closer to pulling the trigger on new front struts, strut mounts and another alignment. I think I will just suck it up and pay the dealer to do it properly. I'll tell them I had a camber problem on the right front, it may or may not be resolved with new struts and mounts (hopefully is), and the car has all 4 caster/camber bolts in the locations - figure it out. Hopefully this works, because while we are talking about $2000 here, I think it would pay dividends in enjoyment. It will ride/handle better, track better, occasional clunks and squeaks will be gone, and it will not wear out tires as quickly. This is all good stuff.

Left one not available online now. $1200 counter only. Now it will be $2200 plus mounts. This is getting insane. At least the right one is only up $22....

They said there are 6 of the non-64 part number suffix in the US but more like 71 in Germany. He thought they won't be making more.

I think I need to look into other options like retrofitting a Bilstein from a non-AMG W212.

https://www.shocksurplus.com/search?ven ... veType/AWD

The B6 from an E550 is probably about right for my car but questions remain.
- Will it physically bolt up? Probably? I think I have a wider track than the base chassis.
- I would use my original spring but if the spring mount on the strut was different or the strut bolt section was a different length there could be a ride height difference and I don't want it higher OR lower.
- The electronic shock control. If I unplug them the system will command full stiff and thus not let me select Comfort with the higher rear ride height. I don't want to lose that function so I would either need to figure out a way to code out the shock control but leave the ride height control or just use dummy resistors to make it think everything is happy. Honestly I think the latter is more likely to work IF they use a simple resistance check and not anything more fancy or closed loop.
- I was focusing on the front struts but the questions remain for the rear shocks. I am less worried because unlike the strut, the rear shocks don't play any structural role in the rear suspension. It just needs to bolt up and be close to the right length for the suspension travel.