14 E63S: rear knuckle lower control arm bushings

[kevm14]

Same as on my S550, and by that I mean the same exact bushing P/N: 2043520027.

This is what Rockauto claims:

MERCEDES-BENZ C250 2012-2015
MERCEDES-BENZ C300 2008-2023
MERCEDES-BENZ C350 2008-2015
MERCEDES-BENZ C350E 2016-2018
MERCEDES-BENZ C400 2015
MERCEDES-BENZ C43 AMG 2017-2023
MERCEDES-BENZ C450 AMG 2016
MERCEDES-BENZ C63 AMG 2008-2021
MERCEDES-BENZ CL550 2007-2014
MERCEDES-BENZ CL600 2007
MERCEDES-BENZ CL63 AMG 2008-2014
MERCEDES-BENZ CL65 AMG 2008-2014
MERCEDES-BENZ CLS400 2015-2017
MERCEDES-BENZ CLS450 2019-2023
MERCEDES-BENZ CLS53 AMG 2019-2021
MERCEDES-BENZ CLS550 2012-2018
MERCEDES-BENZ CLS63 AMG 2012-2018
MERCEDES-BENZ E250 2014-2016
MERCEDES-BENZ E300 2017-2019
MERCEDES-BENZ E350 2010-2024
MERCEDES-BENZ E400 2013-2018
MERCEDES-BENZ E43 AMG 2017-2018
MERCEDES-BENZ E450 2019-2024
MERCEDES-BENZ E53 AMG 2019-2023
MERCEDES-BENZ E550 2010-2017
MERCEDES-BENZ E63 AMG 2012-2016
MERCEDES-BENZ GLC300 2016-2024
MERCEDES-BENZ GLC300E 2023
MERCEDES-BENZ GLC350E 2018-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ GLC43 AMG 2017-2023
MERCEDES-BENZ GLK250 2013-2015
MERCEDES-BENZ GLK350 2010-2015
MERCEDES-BENZ MAYBACH S550 2017
MERCEDES-BENZ MAYBACH S560 2018-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ MAYBACH S600 2016-2017
MERCEDES-BENZ MAYBACH S650 2018-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ S350 2012-2013
MERCEDES-BENZ S400 2010-2013
MERCEDES-BENZ S450 2018-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ S550 2007-2017
MERCEDES-BENZ S550E 2015-2017
MERCEDES-BENZ S560 2018-2021
MERCEDES-BENZ S560E 2019-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ S600 2008-2017
MERCEDES-BENZ S63 AMG 2008-2021
MERCEDES-BENZ S65 AMG 2008-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ SL400 2015-2016
MERCEDES-BENZ SL450 2017-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ SL550 2013-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ SL63 AMG 2013-2019
MERCEDES-BENZ SL65 AMG 2013-2018
MERCEDES-BENZ SLC300 2017-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ SLC43 AMG 2017-2020
MERCEDES-BENZ SLK250 2012-2015
MERCEDES-BENZ SLK300 2016
MERCEDES-BENZ SLK350 2013-2016
MERCEDES-BENZ SLK55 AMG 2013-2016

The recommended tool is different but at least it is just one tool. Supposedly on the W204 cars there is less room and a different install tool is used rather than using the same tool to remove and install.

What I am trying to determine is if I can use the custom tool supplied by Kent over in WA that I bought for my S550. It would suck to have it all apart and realize his tool does not fit into the area. So I have to think about what I want to do here. I would like to replace these.

[kevm14]

That's a different bushing. It is a thrust arm bushing. I need the spring control arm bushing, at least if I want to replace the same one I did on my S550.

[kevm14]

These are the right instructions. They have the same 220 P/N extraction and insertion tool but also list an additional 204 P/N insertion tool.

Someone mentioned this tool on the forum: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283734993627?_ ... R6r32OfkZQ

I have Kent's homemade tool (was made for the W221) and Adam has....two master bushing press kits? I could still pick this up as it doesn't seem too expensive. Also from Poland.

[kevm14]

Ordered two Lemforder bushings from Rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 32&jsn=327

Dealer was over $50/ea.

[kevm14]

Car is in the air from steering rack and front stabilizer bar. So I will tackle this tomorrow. Hopefully it goes smoothly.

[kevm14]

It did not go smoothly. But I'll get to that.

With the car in the air I took note of the air pressure in the rear air bags so I could set them back to this when I put the car down. 65 psi.

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The bushings. ZF made in Germany. If only that helped me.

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Under the car I worked my way toward the knuckle bushing on the right side. Actually I deflated the air spring first. Well I deflated it down to 20 psi or whatever and then it wouldn't go lower for some reason. But just disconnect stuff on the spring control arm. Remove the bolt for the stabilizer link and shock. Then loosen the nut at the subframe so the tension is off the bushing. Then remove the bolt at the knuckle. But to get a wrench on there I decided to remove the trailing link connection from the knuckle in that area which is fairly tight.

To get that trailing link off the other knuckle bushing it requires a lot of force because of some gusseting on the arm but eventually I was able to force it down. Also loosen the bolt at the subframe so there is no bushing preload. Flop the trailing link out of the way.

There still isn't a ton of working room the way the knuckle is cast plus the axle is in the way. But I was able to use my new Polish tool and press the old bushing out fairly easily.

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[kevm14]

Or it seemed like things were going smoothly.

I rigged up one adapter from Kent's press but that was incorrect. I also tried reversing the press cup but that ended up putting pressure on the snap ring of the nut/bearing.

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I also ran out to buy out O'Reilly's remaining supply of spline drive sockets so I could hold back the subframe bolt for the trailing arm.

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Collection of tools.

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I stopped taking pictures at this point. So what happened? I could not get the ZF bushings to press in straight. I must have tried 10 times. They kept binding up in the aluminum. Then I would have to hammer it out and sand down the aluminum ear because it was gouged, and try again. I soaked liberally in WD-40. I checked the diameter of the ZF bushing and it was exactly the same 40mm as the stock bushing.

The old bushing boot tore on removal and after trying to put the ZF bushing in so many times, that one tore, too. I realized it was not going to happen despite spending all day on this. So I thought, what happens if I try to press the stock bushing back in? At least I could drive the car. So I tried that. And it went perfect, in a single try. So.....something was up with those ZF bushings I guess. Maybe some coating. Maybe I could have ground down the leading edge to make it more likely to go in straight. I don't really know but I do know I was done trying stuff.

With the stock bushing back in easy easily as it came out, I just moved on to reattaching the trailing arm. That was difficult because it has a gusset that interferes with the bushing. It required the whole knuckle assembly to move rearward or something and that was very difficult to do. So I tried a million things including a jack in various places, gouging the bushing each attempt and then filing it back down to attempt again. Terrible. But eventually I managed to force it back over the bushing and shove the bolt in. Then I moved onto the spring control arm. But I wasn't able to remove more air than 20 psi so the air spring fought me as I jacked the arm up into place. Maybe that's an air bag health thing as you don't want to put them in with no pressure or they fold onto themselves improperly and will fail.

Anyway, assembly just consisted of manhandling the spring control arm up against the force of the air bag, slide the bolts in and get the nuts on hand tight. Then jack up the arm to horizontal, and torque everything. Much of it is angles which is always fun but I got it all done.

Now the car as at the dealer for alignment but I also asked them to quote me to replace these bushings. Again, I spent a day on it, so I put in a fair effort already. We'll see what the dealer says. It's too bad because maybe this could have been avoided if I just spent the extra money to get the OEM bushings instead of ZF. Plus I bought extra spline drive stuff. Maybe it's good to have those. But it's probably going to be 10-15x as much for the dealer to do this as the ZF bushings cost me (which is why I DIY). I'll report back when I have info.