These go together because the fluid seems like GL-5 75W-90 in everything.
Rear diff fill and drain plug torque is 36 lb-ft
Front diff fill and drain plug torque is 29 lb-ft
Transfer case fill and drain plug torque is 27 lb-ft
Diffs technically take 75W-85 GL-5 but I'm sure 75W-90 is fine.
Front diff holds 2.2 qts.
Rear diff holds 3.8 qts.
Transfer case takes 75W-90 and holds 1.2 qts.
I would need 8 qts of 75W-90 for all of this. Nice and easy. I will make sure to get the kind with LS additive built in and just use it everywhere.
Also need to buy the crush washer kit from Amazon.
Video to reference but some of his torques are wrong and this is very simple work: https://youtu.be/UgqPKS1TEzU?si=pBPb7O5nxblXiBcj
2010 Tundra: diffs and transfer case service
Re: 2010 Tundra: diffs and transfer case service
The front diff actuator is leaking. PO replaced this one preventatively and he gave me the original. The RTV job to the diff actually seems to be holding. The leak seems to be coming from where the motor mates to the actuator housing, so an internal leak. He said he used a Chinesium part AND only replaced it like 2 weeks ago so he barely drove it. My driving was the most it had seen. I'll put the original back on when I service the front diff.
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Re: 2010 Tundra: diffs and transfer case service
Ran out of time/energy so I decided to at least check the level of the front diff fluid. Good thing I did. It was down 0.8 qts. Yikes. I don't think it leaked out - I think he never added fluid after doing the front actuator.
I decided to check the transfer case level and rear diff level. Fluid started dribbling out the fill plugs immediately, thankfully, so they were both good. I probably didn't hurt anything driving around down 0.8 qts in the front diff, since he did this 2 weeks ago, and probably no more than 200-300 miles Only very occasional 4WD use just for testing. So It's probably fine?
I do need to replace the actuator still.
I decided to check the transfer case level and rear diff level. Fluid started dribbling out the fill plugs immediately, thankfully, so they were both good. I probably didn't hurt anything driving around down 0.8 qts in the front diff, since he did this 2 weeks ago, and probably no more than 200-300 miles Only very occasional 4WD use just for testing. So It's probably fine?
I do need to replace the actuator still.
Re: 2010 Tundra: diffs and transfer case service
I'll throw this in here. So one of the codes was C1340 Center Differential Lock Circuit. I think it makes sense to swap back to the original diff actuator before chasing this. It's not clear what the symptom even is because everything seems to work.
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Re: 2010 Tundra: diffs and transfer case service
Drained the front diff. Fluid looked good, magnet pretty free of debris.
Pulled the actuator. It looks like there is a splined sliding collar that probably mates the diff to the pass side axle.
Cleaned the surfaces. The PO had RTV'd the bolts but Toyota manual says thread locker instead. They are blind holes. Used RTV made for gear oil. Reinstalled the original front diff actuator and got that all torqued (15 lb-ft) and installed. Drain plug has a new gasket and is torqued. Fill plug has a new gasket and is finger tight. After approx 24 hours elapses I'll fill the front diff and hopefully this will be good.
Pulled the actuator. It looks like there is a splined sliding collar that probably mates the diff to the pass side axle.
Cleaned the surfaces. The PO had RTV'd the bolts but Toyota manual says thread locker instead. They are blind holes. Used RTV made for gear oil. Reinstalled the original front diff actuator and got that all torqued (15 lb-ft) and installed. Drain plug has a new gasket and is torqued. Fill plug has a new gasket and is finger tight. After approx 24 hours elapses I'll fill the front diff and hopefully this will be good.
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Re: 2010 Tundra: diffs and transfer case service
Got the old front actuator installed. But, it doesn't work. 4hi just blinks and no shifting. Unplugged it and plugged the aftermarket one back in and it does work. I took the aftermarket one apart and the O-ring is fine but I think gear oil is leaking INTO the motor/gear housing and it should not. There is plastic gear lube in there indicating they expect that area to be dry. So that will never last. And sealing the motor to the axle adapter won't do anything helpful. The gear oil will kill everything.
Plugging the aftermarket one back in at least satisfied the 4WD system and it stopped blinking. So I can't touch that knob until I fix this properly. I did try whacking the original one and no dice. I could take it apart and try to free it up but this is too much hassle. FWIW, the manual says
Anyway, $490.95 for the OEM part, 41400-34020, at least at my local dealer Yikes. They did have one...
But look at this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 56&jsn=488
I assume this is the OEM part for WAAAY less. About $150 for it. It was going to take a week with Rockauto so I ordered it from Amazon. After shipping it was about the same anyway. I'd like this to be done someday.
Plugging the aftermarket one back in at least satisfied the 4WD system and it stopped blinking. So I can't touch that knob until I fix this properly. I did try whacking the original one and no dice. I could take it apart and try to free it up but this is too much hassle. FWIW, the manual says
Good to know....Four-wheel drive usage frequency
You should drive in four-wheel drive for at least 10 miles (16 km) each
month.
This will assure that the front drive components are lubricated.
Anyway, $490.95 for the OEM part, 41400-34020, at least at my local dealer Yikes. They did have one...
But look at this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 56&jsn=488
I assume this is the OEM part for WAAAY less. About $150 for it. It was going to take a week with Rockauto so I ordered it from Amazon. After shipping it was about the same anyway. I'd like this to be done someday.
Re: 2010 Tundra: diffs and transfer case service
Got the Aisin diff actuator from Amazon. Drained the brand new fluid out and removed the other actuator. The Aisin came with it in the axle lock position for some reason so I plugged it in, turned the ignition on, and it instantly retracted. This tells me two things: 1) it works, and 2) it seemed to move a lot quicker than the aftermarket one. This MAY actually resolve that pesky C1340. One of the criteria was that the axle lock takes over 2 seconds to complete, which may have been happening with the aftermarket one.
I used the Aisin thread locker. The RTV job was easier than before because most of it came off the diff. Just a little scraping and cleaning. And the new actuator had no RTV on it obviously. I applied it to the actuator side instead of the diff which made life easier.
It is assembled and torqued, just waiting for a 24 hour cure to add diff fluid. Tonight is going to be pouring so I may want until Wednesday, which would be 48 anyway.
I used the Aisin thread locker. The RTV job was easier than before because most of it came off the diff. Just a little scraping and cleaning. And the new actuator had no RTV on it obviously. I applied it to the actuator side instead of the diff which made life easier.
It is assembled and torqued, just waiting for a 24 hour cure to add diff fluid. Tonight is going to be pouring so I may want until Wednesday, which would be 48 anyway.
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