Apparently this is something I should have done already. Easy job and these going bad seem to be responsible for increased oil consumption and even seal blow out. Yikes. I'll just pay retail at my local dealer since it is cheap either way. I'll see if they have the hose, too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6Xn49OvwBU
Valve is 12204-38010 (should be around $13) and hose is 12261-38020 (should be around $10). Clamps are 90467-14017 (should be around $1/ea) if it turns out I need those.
2010 Tundra: PCV valve replacement
Re: 2010 Tundra: PCV valve replacement
Dealer had the valve. $10.63 before tax. They did not have the hose or clamps.
Pre-inspection. Foam has been removed so someone has been in here before and high chance my valve has been replaced before. That's good.
Fun Toyota stuff on the wall at the dealer. So affordable.
And here is someone's bad day. I'm not quite sure how this would happen. Rust? Giant pothole? Good ole' boy yanking on the wheel to free the car from a ditch? Removed hose. I did have to release pressure from the clamp but the hose slid right off the intake manifold nipple. No blockage. Was able to remove the hose from the valve just be tugging and a little twisting. The internet warned of over-tightening these (FSM says 22 lb-ft or something insane which has to be wrong), and that since it takes such a low torque, they loosen easily. So I tried a 22mm deep with a 1/2" extension simply by hand. And that was enough to crack it loose. A little dirty but still rattled and didn't seem blocked. It was in fact an OEM valve, but must have been done before (at least once). New valve in bag. I did clean the intake nipple and block area with some carb cleaner and rag. They were dirty but not excessively so.
Started by hand and tightened by hand the same way I loosened it. It's just an O-ring seal so I made it snug and that was enough. FSM wanted thread adhesive. Nah. All done. I should probably order a new hose and I guess clamps just to get it all back to new. The hose had some degradation but I didn't see anything else alarming. I did rinse and sort of scrub it with carb cleaner and a rag. It had some gunk in there but that was about it. With the extra cleaning time this took a total of 20 minutes.
Pre-inspection. Foam has been removed so someone has been in here before and high chance my valve has been replaced before. That's good.
Fun Toyota stuff on the wall at the dealer. So affordable.
And here is someone's bad day. I'm not quite sure how this would happen. Rust? Giant pothole? Good ole' boy yanking on the wheel to free the car from a ditch? Removed hose. I did have to release pressure from the clamp but the hose slid right off the intake manifold nipple. No blockage. Was able to remove the hose from the valve just be tugging and a little twisting. The internet warned of over-tightening these (FSM says 22 lb-ft or something insane which has to be wrong), and that since it takes such a low torque, they loosen easily. So I tried a 22mm deep with a 1/2" extension simply by hand. And that was enough to crack it loose. A little dirty but still rattled and didn't seem blocked. It was in fact an OEM valve, but must have been done before (at least once). New valve in bag. I did clean the intake nipple and block area with some carb cleaner and rag. They were dirty but not excessively so.
Started by hand and tightened by hand the same way I loosened it. It's just an O-ring seal so I made it snug and that was enough. FSM wanted thread adhesive. Nah. All done. I should probably order a new hose and I guess clamps just to get it all back to new. The hose had some degradation but I didn't see anything else alarming. I did rinse and sort of scrub it with carb cleaner and a rag. It had some gunk in there but that was about it. With the extra cleaning time this took a total of 20 minutes.
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Re: 2010 Tundra: PCV valve replacement
Ordered the hose and 2 clamps from Toyota Parts Deal. I can replace at my leisure since they were in serviceable condition.