Got a new well drilled last week at 1616 Pond Hill Rd., Lunenburg, 05906. Well driller said it's 305 feet deep and had the highest yield the sales guy had seen (he acknowledged he's only been doing this work like 6 months or so) - 50 GPM.
Their advice due to the high yield was to install the pump at about the 150 foot depth.
Necessary design decisions:
Pump HP and flow/pressure rating. This seems to be a very standard home well system and would likely be adequately served by a 1/2 hp pump, and could probably get away with the composite-discharge less heavy duty pump. I'm leaning toward a 3/4 HP, stainless discharge model to be a little more rugged. I think the Old Lyme house has a 1/2 hp pump (I believe I replaced with exactly what was here and had lasted 50 years, and matched wire gauges and the starting capacitor box in the basement). I can't tell if the pump includes a foot valve (check valve) or I need an external one. I also think these have integral intake screens, but I can't quite tell from the pics.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Red-Lion-Pu ... 230V-Steel
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse ... Manual.pdf
Pipe sizing:
Typical residential well service is apparently either 1" or 1-1/4" poly(ethylene? propylene?) pipe to serve the house. 1" appears to be standard. 1 1-4" is probably negligibly more expensive, but a little harder to work with. I could neck down to 1" after entering the house foundation if that's a major hassle.
Expansion tank sizing:
Depending on desired minimum pump cycling time, the Amtrol website selector says I should have at least 32-gallon expansion tank, especially with a "higher" rated 3/4 hp pump. Especially because I may install this before I have the basement closed in/roof on, the non-steel stand seemed appealing. Amtrol advertising says the paint is outdoor rated, so should ok in the weather for a little while (the pump switch is probably not, but I can cover that.)
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Amtrol-WX-2 ... base-Stand
Wire gauge selection:
Pump sheet says 8 amp motor, so it should be OK w/ 12 gauge, even on a 250'-300' total run (probably 100' horizontal, 10' at well head, and 150' down well. Southwire calculator says 2.9% voltage drop. With 3 sets of connections (at pump, well head, and at controller), seems like 10/3 would be safer. https://www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop
Parts/ordering list:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing
VT Cabin Well Pump
Re: VT Cabin Well Pump
A WX-250 tank would add about $250 to the project. $791.12 vs. $529.99.
I should call the local NH plumbing supply house (https://www.arrowcentral.com/) to see what their prices on everything is. If I pick up in NH, there's no sales tax. They were way cheaper on the specific septic system leach field mats I had to buy than anyone else. (like 40% less I think).
I should call the local NH plumbing supply house (https://www.arrowcentral.com/) to see what their prices on everything is. If I pick up in NH, there's no sales tax. They were way cheaper on the specific septic system leach field mats I had to buy than anyone else. (like 40% less I think).
Re: VT Cabin Well Pump
Called Arrow Supply. Looks like slightly less expensive overall and I think a better pump (Gould) vs. the one I linked earlier.
Updated the sheet with their prices. They use Zylmet (sp?) tanks. I'll have to see what rep they have.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... id=0#gid=0
Updated the sheet with their prices. They use Zylmet (sp?) tanks. I'll have to see what rep they have.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... id=0#gid=0
Re: VT Cabin Well Pump
Ah - Zilmet. Looks a 40 gallon for $480. So that's good.
I think I can try to put this in on Friday/Saturday/Sunday if all goes well (pun?).
I think I can try to put this in on Friday/Saturday/Sunday if all goes well (pun?).
Re: VT Cabin Well Pump
Got up to the supply house in Littleton NH Friday 4/10, picked up all of the supplies including the pump and expansion tank. Grand total for equipment/supplies I think will be in the $2800 range. Some stuff I bought extra and have to return or exchange, so I don't have an exact total.
Managed to get the trench dug, the 1.25" pitless adapter installed, 1.25" line run. Core-drilled a new 2" hole in the 10" thick foundation wall since that was easier than trying to snake the line up from the in-the-floor sleeve I had cast in the wall. Used the cast-in hole for the conduit/wiring penetration.
The water line should by 6'+ deep to be below max frost depth in Northern VT, but due to very large rocks or possibly ledge I couldn't get more than about 4.5-5' in a lot of areas. I covered it with 24" wide panels of 3" thick polystyrene insulation, two layers deep (6" total). I've heard construction method rules of thumb that 1" of foam should compensate for about 1' of line depth. So I think I'm "covered".
Ran a 1.5" conduit about 30" deep in the same trench. Used 10, 10' long conduit pieces plus a couple 90 deg sweeps, so the horizontal line run is about 100-105' long I think.
They didn't have a 1.25" check valve or 1.25" expansion tank T in stock at the supply house, so I bought 1" and the reducing fitting to go from my new line. I haven't installed yet and have some stuff I need to return anyhow, so I've asked them to order in a 1.25" water tank T. I also need to call again and ask them to get a 1.25" check-valve. I'm trying to make sure supply-to-the-building is fully 1.25" just in case I want to tap off it to service another building or something, especially since it's such a high yield well.
I didn't get any of the in-the-well (pump, line, wiring, etc.) installed yet, nor did I get the pressure tank or switch/check valve installed. At least I got the digging and backfilling complete so no heavy earth moving should be required again.
Managed to get the trench dug, the 1.25" pitless adapter installed, 1.25" line run. Core-drilled a new 2" hole in the 10" thick foundation wall since that was easier than trying to snake the line up from the in-the-floor sleeve I had cast in the wall. Used the cast-in hole for the conduit/wiring penetration.
The water line should by 6'+ deep to be below max frost depth in Northern VT, but due to very large rocks or possibly ledge I couldn't get more than about 4.5-5' in a lot of areas. I covered it with 24" wide panels of 3" thick polystyrene insulation, two layers deep (6" total). I've heard construction method rules of thumb that 1" of foam should compensate for about 1' of line depth. So I think I'm "covered".
Ran a 1.5" conduit about 30" deep in the same trench. Used 10, 10' long conduit pieces plus a couple 90 deg sweeps, so the horizontal line run is about 100-105' long I think.
They didn't have a 1.25" check valve or 1.25" expansion tank T in stock at the supply house, so I bought 1" and the reducing fitting to go from my new line. I haven't installed yet and have some stuff I need to return anyhow, so I've asked them to order in a 1.25" water tank T. I also need to call again and ask them to get a 1.25" check-valve. I'm trying to make sure supply-to-the-building is fully 1.25" just in case I want to tap off it to service another building or something, especially since it's such a high yield well.
I didn't get any of the in-the-well (pump, line, wiring, etc.) installed yet, nor did I get the pressure tank or switch/check valve installed. At least I got the digging and backfilling complete so no heavy earth moving should be required again.