I guess for $80 I could chance used on the trailer towing control module:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/374899116053?i ... R6zujp_MYw
Mercedes GL/GLS test drives
Re: Mercedes GL/GLS test drives
You are also due for a transmission service.
Re: Mercedes GL/GLS test drives
I probably should've ordered the filter(s) with the wiring harnesses. I'm a little confused by the MB listings of a pan and gear oil filter - RockAuto pics look like there's 2 filters that might be integral with the pan?
https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/v ... components
https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/v ... components
Re: Mercedes GL/GLS test drives
Appears to be much cheaper here than on RockAuto and appears to include both filters:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merced ... 7252703707
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merced ... 7252703707
Re: Mercedes GL/GLS test drives
Yes I think it's the pan and the assorted stuff but the filters are integral.
https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... 7252703707
You could call the dealer and ask if that pan includes the gasket, bolts, overflow tube, whatever.
I don't know that I understand what every piece is for that Vaico kit on FCP.
For fluid it needs to meet 236.17.
https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/sheet/236.17
https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... A2LTAzLTA5
Might need to read up on this transmission:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merced ... uring-3402
https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... 7252703707
You could call the dealer and ask if that pan includes the gasket, bolts, overflow tube, whatever.
I don't know that I understand what every piece is for that Vaico kit on FCP.
For fluid it needs to meet 236.17.
https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/sheet/236.17
https://www.mercedesbenzpartsshop.com/o ... A2LTAzLTA5
Might need to read up on this transmission:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merced ... uring-3402
Re: Mercedes GL/GLS test drives
I don't remember if I posted this. Info about installing the factory hitch stuff.
https://mbworld.org/forums/gls-class-x1 ... alled.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/gls-class-x1 ... alled.html
Re: Mercedes GL/GLS test drives
Needed to put this somewhere.
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Re: Mercedes GL/GLS test drives
Thought I would use this general thread to document my findings from the turbo wastegate job.
Things to inspect:
Turbo stuff.
[*]Turbo oil lines and O-rings. I didn't inspect these.
[*]Turbo coolant lines and O-rings. I didn't really check everything but the conclusion was to replace the pass side lower turbo coolant line due to impossible accessibility in chassis.
[*]Wastegate actuators. The actuators themselves seem fine. The pass side rod end hole was totally egged out. Weld, drill.
[*]Turbo "inlet seals". Didn't look closely but probably fine. Can be replaced in chassis anyway.
[*]Exhaust manifolds and turbo housing inspection. Didn't see anything cracked or amiss. Working theory on cold start exhaust noise is pass side wastegate was not being controlled properly and this could have contributed further to the already different cold start noise these have due to cat light off ignition and cam timing control schemes.
[*]Turbo bearings. Pass side turbo bearings more worn than driver's side. Whether it is related or not it's correlated with the extra wastegate wear. Driver's side felt like what I'd want at 155k. Just a little play. Pass side not as good but still runnable. Likely won't make another 100k.
Front of engine
[*]Cam phaser covers. Leaks at covers and cam solenoids. Cam covers need to be removed. Recommend removing and installing new cam adjuster magnets since those O-rings can (and probably are) leaking. I don't recommend trying to chase down a big O-ring as these are an electromechanical component that does weaken with age/mileage/heat cycles. Just replace all four. You want positive control on the oil circuit for the cam phasers as they are also known to go. Keeping everything that controls them healthy (as well as a healthy supply of oil from disconnecting the oil pump pressure solenoid) seems like as much as you can do, aside from 5,000 mile oil change intervals. Left unchecked, a leak on the pass side will take out the alternator. I need to do mine.
[*]Oil cooler. The oil cooler is directly on the timing cover on these. Probably needs to be resealed at some point. Some people replace the cooler as they can leak internally and mix oil and coolant. I just did the gasket on mine but I probably should have replaced the whole thing.
[*]Oil filter housing. Slight weeping at bottom. This will likely have to come off for the driver's side cam cover resealing so just get new gaskets and do them at this time. Verify if other gaskets/O-rings are involved. Mine has an external oil cooler with O-rings, for example.
Top of engine
[*]Valve cover leaks. Found none, looks good.
Back of engine
[*]Oil centrifuge (OK if totally dry – also check hose to TB for oil). Weeping at bottom edge. Found oil in tube and on other side of breather at air intake, and at the turbo. Recommend replace centrifuge cover and breather tube (for check valve that I still think is in there). Oil centrifuge is best done engine out.
[*]Vacuum pump (oil leaks). Looked dry.
[*]Head/cam covers. There is only one cover since everything else is used. It has been replaced previously (because it was leaking). My E63 may have zero caps because it has a driver's side HPFP.
Parts (ideal when engine out)
[*]Oil centrifuge cover
[*]Pass side lower turbo coolant line to water pump
Parts (can do later)
[*]Reseal both cam phaser covers and replace cam adjuster magnets.
[*]Breather tube possibly including the intake molded boot. Depends on whether this is easy to separate. I would just replace the pair and be done with it.
[*]Reseal oil filter adapter/housing since it has to be removed anyway. There may be an oil thermostat under a plastic retaining cover. This cover has an O-ring that commonly leaks. You can buy covers with O-ring. I should look at EPC to see if that applies to this M278. My E63 has one. The cover may not survive any inspection so don't remove until a replacement is in hand.
[*]Reseal (or replace) oil cooler at timing cover
Things to inspect:
Turbo stuff.
[*]Turbo oil lines and O-rings. I didn't inspect these.
[*]Turbo coolant lines and O-rings. I didn't really check everything but the conclusion was to replace the pass side lower turbo coolant line due to impossible accessibility in chassis.
[*]Wastegate actuators. The actuators themselves seem fine. The pass side rod end hole was totally egged out. Weld, drill.
[*]Turbo "inlet seals". Didn't look closely but probably fine. Can be replaced in chassis anyway.
[*]Exhaust manifolds and turbo housing inspection. Didn't see anything cracked or amiss. Working theory on cold start exhaust noise is pass side wastegate was not being controlled properly and this could have contributed further to the already different cold start noise these have due to cat light off ignition and cam timing control schemes.
[*]Turbo bearings. Pass side turbo bearings more worn than driver's side. Whether it is related or not it's correlated with the extra wastegate wear. Driver's side felt like what I'd want at 155k. Just a little play. Pass side not as good but still runnable. Likely won't make another 100k.
Front of engine
[*]Cam phaser covers. Leaks at covers and cam solenoids. Cam covers need to be removed. Recommend removing and installing new cam adjuster magnets since those O-rings can (and probably are) leaking. I don't recommend trying to chase down a big O-ring as these are an electromechanical component that does weaken with age/mileage/heat cycles. Just replace all four. You want positive control on the oil circuit for the cam phasers as they are also known to go. Keeping everything that controls them healthy (as well as a healthy supply of oil from disconnecting the oil pump pressure solenoid) seems like as much as you can do, aside from 5,000 mile oil change intervals. Left unchecked, a leak on the pass side will take out the alternator. I need to do mine.
[*]Oil cooler. The oil cooler is directly on the timing cover on these. Probably needs to be resealed at some point. Some people replace the cooler as they can leak internally and mix oil and coolant. I just did the gasket on mine but I probably should have replaced the whole thing.
[*]Oil filter housing. Slight weeping at bottom. This will likely have to come off for the driver's side cam cover resealing so just get new gaskets and do them at this time. Verify if other gaskets/O-rings are involved. Mine has an external oil cooler with O-rings, for example.
Top of engine
[*]Valve cover leaks. Found none, looks good.
Back of engine
[*]Oil centrifuge (OK if totally dry – also check hose to TB for oil). Weeping at bottom edge. Found oil in tube and on other side of breather at air intake, and at the turbo. Recommend replace centrifuge cover and breather tube (for check valve that I still think is in there). Oil centrifuge is best done engine out.
[*]Vacuum pump (oil leaks). Looked dry.
[*]Head/cam covers. There is only one cover since everything else is used. It has been replaced previously (because it was leaking). My E63 may have zero caps because it has a driver's side HPFP.
Parts (ideal when engine out)
[*]Oil centrifuge cover
[*]Pass side lower turbo coolant line to water pump
Parts (can do later)
[*]Reseal both cam phaser covers and replace cam adjuster magnets.
[*]Breather tube possibly including the intake molded boot. Depends on whether this is easy to separate. I would just replace the pair and be done with it.
[*]Reseal oil filter adapter/housing since it has to be removed anyway. There may be an oil thermostat under a plastic retaining cover. This cover has an O-ring that commonly leaks. You can buy covers with O-ring. I should look at EPC to see if that applies to this M278. My E63 has one. The cover may not survive any inspection so don't remove until a replacement is in hand.
[*]Reseal (or replace) oil cooler at timing cover